Timing cover oil cooler port plugs (Serp)
Discussion
There's two plugs on the intermediate cover used on Tivs (crank driven pump with dizzy) - Not used on our cars but on Land Rovers, these ports feed to and return from the oem oil cooler (out from the bottom one where the pressure gauge sender sits on a Tiv and return to the side just above the filter housing). Anyone know if the two plugs are identical (apart from the 1/8NPT threaded drilling in the bottom one)? Thinking of the business end and wondering if the bottom one, with the drilling, could go in the side and seal?
I'm sure either is fine Peter as they are essentially doing the same thing (PM me your email address and I'll send you a pic that maps the flows through the cover); I'm asking the Q as I want a 1/8 NPT tapping on the side and had acquired an M20x1.5 bung with said threaded drilling but when I came to fit, the spanner flats and sealing ring I wanted to use fouled the casting on the filter housing, which is not flat all around the hole (why is nothing ever easy on these cars?) The original seals inside the port by bottoming, whereas the new blank tightens against the case outer with its flange.
Plan B is to use my new bung in the bottom (I think the bottom face of the cover is flat so the same problem hopefully won't arise there), with the original bottom bung (which is already drilled and tapped for the gauge sender) going in the side... just depends on the two original bungs being the same apart from the drilling, hence asking.
Plan C is to double stack a couple of crush rings on the new bung to stand the hexagon and flange off the housing.
Plan B is to use my new bung in the bottom (I think the bottom face of the cover is flat so the same problem hopefully won't arise there), with the original bottom bung (which is already drilled and tapped for the gauge sender) going in the side... just depends on the two original bungs being the same apart from the drilling, hence asking.
Plan C is to double stack a couple of crush rings on the new bung to stand the hexagon and flange off the housing.
Ok, after amusing the neighbours with some early morning under-car activity, Plan B looks to work. The bungs are the same form and look like they will interchange in the cover. The replacement LMA guage adaptor seems to fit and seal on the bottom face of the cover... what do you mean 'so what?', this stuff matters! 
Pupp said:
I'm sure either is fine Peter as they are essentially doing the same thing (PM me your email address and I'll send you a pic that maps the flows through the cover); I'm asking the Q as I want a 1/8 NPT tapping on the side and had acquired an M20x1.5 bung with said threaded drilling but when I came to fit, the spanner flats and sealing ring I wanted to use fouled the casting on the filter housing, which is not flat all around the hole (why is nothing ever easy on these cars?) The original seals inside the port by bottoming, whereas the new blank tightens against the case outer with its flange.
Plan B is to use my new bung in the bottom (I think the bottom face of the cover is flat so the same problem hopefully won't arise there), with the original bottom bung (which is already drilled and tapped for the gauge sender) going in the side... just depends on the two original bungs being the same apart from the drilling, hence asking.
Plan C is to double stack a couple of crush rings on the new bung to stand the hexagon and flange off the housing.
A decent sized o-ring or dowty should seal against the shoulder of the casting (not the face surface as that is kind of rounded ). As you noted the original bung from underneath is fine swapped to the side & a common replacement one with dowty seal works OK underneath (but you need a cap screw to the sump [5/16UNC] in case you want to remove sump without having to extract bung from timing cover each time)Plan B is to use my new bung in the bottom (I think the bottom face of the cover is flat so the same problem hopefully won't arise there), with the original bottom bung (which is already drilled and tapped for the gauge sender) going in the side... just depends on the two original bungs being the same apart from the drilling, hence asking.
Plan C is to double stack a couple of crush rings on the new bung to stand the hexagon and flange off the housing.
With o-rings a good supplier will not only have different overall dias but all so a selection of different cross sectional areas so you need id & od (od-id/2 being the dia of the rubber). If you pick one that fits into the taper you actually end up with 4 sealing points rather than just the 2 you get with a face-face arrangement 
Don't get me on about tapers... Just installed a temp and a pressure sender into both bungs after popping them in. Both 1/8npt and' as usual, after a twist or two of PTFE', no tightening feeling at all. Just that horrible vagueness... Yuk
The bungs seem fine however.
Don't suppose you know what pressure the idiot light switch is supposed to trip at?
The bungs seem fine however.
Don't suppose you know what pressure the idiot light switch is supposed to trip at?
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