g3org3y's Morocco Trip (Pics+++ & Write-Up)
Discussion
I notice we often get posters asking for advice regarding Morocco (especially Marrakech) as such I thought it would be worthwhile sharing a write up I did (for another forum) a number of years back when I visited. Hope PHers find it informative and interesting. 
As ever, feedback is welcome re writing style/photos etc
Why Morocco?
Never been to Africa and never been to a Muslim country. Potential interesting mix of history and culture with many good opportunities for photos. Ended up being a fairly decent trip, worthwhile but ultimately hard work...as ever the Rough Guide was essential.
The Plan
11 days - Flying into Marrakech, first couple of days there. After that, overnight train to Tangiers up in the north and immediately across via coach to the small village of Chefchaouen. Following a bit of R&R, more coach action down to Fez, see the sites and then further across to Meknes. From Meknes back to Marrkech via Casblanca. Plenty to do, and not much time to do it!
Photographs in Morocco
As one can appreciate, the Moroccan attitude to photography is somewhat more conservative than the attention seeking West. People are not particularly happy to be in photos and those that do, want monetary compensation and can be aggresive in their demands. The secret weapon...the telephoto zoom lens. In addition, you'll notice quite a few shots done "from the hip" - this is literally having the camera by one's side, walking past subjects of interest and with a bit of luck getting them in frame as you hit the shutter. Very trial and error, but some of the candids you can get are great. 8)
If you want a 'relaxing' photography holiday - this is not it!
I've tried to included a selection of photos that give a 'feel' for the place. Many people shots (on the sly) and lots of details. Processing wise, depends on the subject matter. I think I was a bit disappointed by the lack of colour in Morocco, dulled and bleached by the sun, it lacked the sparkle and vigour of Thailand. As such, the processing has been quite conservative but colours remained/enhanced where I've thought it adding to the photo.
Welcome To Marrakech
Arguably the most famous city in Morocco, and the usual starting point for most holiday makers and travellers.
Typically cities in Morocco comprise two parts, a fortified old town (known as the Medina) and a newer modern city called the Gueliz or 'New Town'. It is claimed that one cannot truly appreciate Marrakech without living in the Medina experiencing the sights, the sounds and the smells! :!:
The centre piece is the market square - Djemaa El Fna. Bustling and busy all day and night. The guide books will suggest that nothing can compare to the hustle and bustle of the famous market/souk, however think Camden Market, add 15 degrees, people branishing monkeys, others charming snakes and women waving syringes of henna and you're not far off. Evenings attract more locals gathering around story tellers and the centre becomes an open air restaurant as food stalls emerge and tempt you to have a seat and sample the local cuisine.
Market Place at night
The souk is an adventure in itself. Twisting turning alleyways, hanging from any available space - clothes, lamps, carpets, pottery, scarves, shoes... It can be intimidating at first, especially given the rather aggresive nature of the arab stall keepers. Also the fact that many alleyways in the souk look identical, getting lost is an inevitability. However, putting all this aside, if you're willing to 'open up' to the experience, it can be rewarding. You certainly don't get motorcycles and donkeys walking with you in Camden!
If you look western (especially if you have a nice camera), you are going to get harassed. Beggers in every doorway is a common sight. Somewhat more upsetting are the child beggars - either selling boxes of tissues or straight out asking for cash. The mothers sell pastries and the children often run back and forth to pass on any money collected. Initially one does feel sorry for such children, but I have to admit, after about...10 minutes, it's bloody annoying and you learn to answer with a firm 'NO' and they get the message.
Speaking of people trying to get your money...bartering. Accepted and expected anywhere and everywhere. Again, if you're up it (and accept that whatever happens you'll be paying over the odds vs a local), it can be fun. Often it can be tiresome, especially as you start dismissing everyone as you assume people are constantly trying to shaft you.
The local dentist
We spent a few days in Marrakech. Saw the guidebook recommendations. Ultimately, there's not a huge amount to see and do and by the third day you've pretty much done it all. The mosques and Koranic Schools are worth a look. The Majorelle Gardens are always recommended but in all honesty weren't that impressive.
Mosque Details
The Gardens
Around Marrakech
Roads
Anarchy. But oddly controlled. Didn't see any crashes but very copious use of the horn - not aggresive but as an indication of the driver's presence. Almost seemed to work...probably wouldn't get away with it driving around London though. Scooters galore...carrying whole families, any shape and size. Crazy!
You'd get used to this view though...the majority of taxis in Marrakech (and more widely in Morocco) are Mercedes, old skool E Classes.
At least I managed to practice my panning shots!
524td (quite a few of these about actually, also in E34 form)
Chefchaouen
A little village to the north of Morocco up in the hills. Noticably cooler than Marrakech and quite friendly. Famous for the paintedblue walls, to me certainly had the feel of a Greek mountain village. The overlooking waterfall where the women clean their clothes was worth a look, as were the winding little streets. Couple of nice restaurants too.
Brochettes
Tagine (again - got really sick of this by the end of the holiday!)
Mint Tea
Book sale!
After a couple of days relaxation it was time to re-enter the fray, and where better to start than the classic historical city of Fes.
Fes
Former capital, this is a city full of history. It comprises three distinct parts, Fes el Bali (the old, walled city), Fes-Jdid (new Fes) and the Ville Nouvelle (the French-created, newest section of Fes).
Fes el Bali is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its medina, the larger of the two medinas of Fes, is believed to be the world's largest contiguous car-free urban area. The University of Al-Karaouine, founded in AD 859, is the oldest continuously functioning university in the world.
The Medina in Fes makes that of Marrkech look like sunday village market - this is big! After getting lost within 30 seconds we decided to get a guide to show us round and it was a the best cash we spent the entire holiday. Saw all the notable things worth seeing and more on top. Getting a good guide can be luck of the draw and I have to admit, we were most fortunate.
Laura trying to flirt a discount on the guide
The gate of Fes
Lots of random (hungry looking) little kittens in the street
Details from the Mosques
Details from the souks
Donkey
Silk hung down the street (bit of an abstract shot)
Winding streets of the Medina
Of note in Fez are the tanneries - where the skins of cows, goats and lambs are cleaned, dyed and made into bags, shoes, coats etc. Conducted on a grand scale, the smell is...somewhat less than pleasant.
We also wondered up the hills to the tombs to get a view over the city - here we met a Moroccan family having a picnic. The little girl kept bothering us for cash, so I gave her 10Dirhams (1 Euro) in exchange for a photo.
Also got a nice photo of the gf.
Overall, I preferred Fes to Marrakech. Had all the hustle and bustle but slightly less tourist orientated (i.e. fewer people trying to shaft you). It was with this thought in mind we proceeded west to Meknes.
Meknes
This town I enjoyed home to the gate - Bab Mansour (one of the largest in Morocco). A combination of mosaics and Roman columns, it is probably the most notable site in the town (plus a good place for photos).
It overlooks the market place, much quieter than Marrakech, come evenign however it really fills up. During the day, sitting at a cafe it is a prime place for people shots.
The souks are a pleasure. Very much geared for local people, the prices are more resonable and there is no hassle to buy. Most of the things we bought in Morocco were from here.
Casablanca
Only here for a few hours, stopping off from our train journey back to Marrakech. Our plan to see the Hassan II Mosque (second larget after Mecca) was scuppered owing to a royal visit. My snapping with a large telephoto attracted some 'official attention' and tbh, was lucky to not get the camera confiscated!
We did however have a really nice luch at the famous ' Ricks' Cafe' - very very nice and if you happen to find yourself in Casablanca, highly recommended.
And back to Marrakech
A random mix of bits and pieces, people and things in and around the souks of Marrakech:
Final day spent back in Marrakech. It was a shame we didn't have a touch longer, I think I'd have liked to travel further south to the Atlas Mountains and do some treking (and photograph some sunsets).
Worthwhile? I think so. It's important to experience different cultures but I do admit Morocco is hard work. You have to be quite open minded and try not to constantly attach Western values otherwise you'll constantly find yourself getting annoyed. It's an interesting blend of tradition and modern westernised life. For me, this photo sums it up.
Until the next adventure...
As ever, feedback is welcome re writing style/photos etc
Why Morocco?
Never been to Africa and never been to a Muslim country. Potential interesting mix of history and culture with many good opportunities for photos. Ended up being a fairly decent trip, worthwhile but ultimately hard work...as ever the Rough Guide was essential.
The Plan
11 days - Flying into Marrakech, first couple of days there. After that, overnight train to Tangiers up in the north and immediately across via coach to the small village of Chefchaouen. Following a bit of R&R, more coach action down to Fez, see the sites and then further across to Meknes. From Meknes back to Marrkech via Casblanca. Plenty to do, and not much time to do it!
Photographs in Morocco
As one can appreciate, the Moroccan attitude to photography is somewhat more conservative than the attention seeking West. People are not particularly happy to be in photos and those that do, want monetary compensation and can be aggresive in their demands. The secret weapon...the telephoto zoom lens. In addition, you'll notice quite a few shots done "from the hip" - this is literally having the camera by one's side, walking past subjects of interest and with a bit of luck getting them in frame as you hit the shutter. Very trial and error, but some of the candids you can get are great. 8)
If you want a 'relaxing' photography holiday - this is not it!
I've tried to included a selection of photos that give a 'feel' for the place. Many people shots (on the sly) and lots of details. Processing wise, depends on the subject matter. I think I was a bit disappointed by the lack of colour in Morocco, dulled and bleached by the sun, it lacked the sparkle and vigour of Thailand. As such, the processing has been quite conservative but colours remained/enhanced where I've thought it adding to the photo.
Welcome To Marrakech
Arguably the most famous city in Morocco, and the usual starting point for most holiday makers and travellers.
Typically cities in Morocco comprise two parts, a fortified old town (known as the Medina) and a newer modern city called the Gueliz or 'New Town'. It is claimed that one cannot truly appreciate Marrakech without living in the Medina experiencing the sights, the sounds and the smells! :!:
The centre piece is the market square - Djemaa El Fna. Bustling and busy all day and night. The guide books will suggest that nothing can compare to the hustle and bustle of the famous market/souk, however think Camden Market, add 15 degrees, people branishing monkeys, others charming snakes and women waving syringes of henna and you're not far off. Evenings attract more locals gathering around story tellers and the centre becomes an open air restaurant as food stalls emerge and tempt you to have a seat and sample the local cuisine.
Market Place at night
The souk is an adventure in itself. Twisting turning alleyways, hanging from any available space - clothes, lamps, carpets, pottery, scarves, shoes... It can be intimidating at first, especially given the rather aggresive nature of the arab stall keepers. Also the fact that many alleyways in the souk look identical, getting lost is an inevitability. However, putting all this aside, if you're willing to 'open up' to the experience, it can be rewarding. You certainly don't get motorcycles and donkeys walking with you in Camden!
If you look western (especially if you have a nice camera), you are going to get harassed. Beggers in every doorway is a common sight. Somewhat more upsetting are the child beggars - either selling boxes of tissues or straight out asking for cash. The mothers sell pastries and the children often run back and forth to pass on any money collected. Initially one does feel sorry for such children, but I have to admit, after about...10 minutes, it's bloody annoying and you learn to answer with a firm 'NO' and they get the message.
Speaking of people trying to get your money...bartering. Accepted and expected anywhere and everywhere. Again, if you're up it (and accept that whatever happens you'll be paying over the odds vs a local), it can be fun. Often it can be tiresome, especially as you start dismissing everyone as you assume people are constantly trying to shaft you.
The local dentist
We spent a few days in Marrakech. Saw the guidebook recommendations. Ultimately, there's not a huge amount to see and do and by the third day you've pretty much done it all. The mosques and Koranic Schools are worth a look. The Majorelle Gardens are always recommended but in all honesty weren't that impressive.
Mosque Details
The Gardens
Around Marrakech
Roads
Anarchy. But oddly controlled. Didn't see any crashes but very copious use of the horn - not aggresive but as an indication of the driver's presence. Almost seemed to work...probably wouldn't get away with it driving around London though. Scooters galore...carrying whole families, any shape and size. Crazy!
You'd get used to this view though...the majority of taxis in Marrakech (and more widely in Morocco) are Mercedes, old skool E Classes.
At least I managed to practice my panning shots!
524td (quite a few of these about actually, also in E34 form)
Chefchaouen
A little village to the north of Morocco up in the hills. Noticably cooler than Marrakech and quite friendly. Famous for the paintedblue walls, to me certainly had the feel of a Greek mountain village. The overlooking waterfall where the women clean their clothes was worth a look, as were the winding little streets. Couple of nice restaurants too.
Brochettes
Tagine (again - got really sick of this by the end of the holiday!)
Mint Tea
Book sale!
After a couple of days relaxation it was time to re-enter the fray, and where better to start than the classic historical city of Fes.
Fes
Former capital, this is a city full of history. It comprises three distinct parts, Fes el Bali (the old, walled city), Fes-Jdid (new Fes) and the Ville Nouvelle (the French-created, newest section of Fes).
Fes el Bali is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its medina, the larger of the two medinas of Fes, is believed to be the world's largest contiguous car-free urban area. The University of Al-Karaouine, founded in AD 859, is the oldest continuously functioning university in the world.
The Medina in Fes makes that of Marrkech look like sunday village market - this is big! After getting lost within 30 seconds we decided to get a guide to show us round and it was a the best cash we spent the entire holiday. Saw all the notable things worth seeing and more on top. Getting a good guide can be luck of the draw and I have to admit, we were most fortunate.
Laura trying to flirt a discount on the guide
The gate of Fes
Lots of random (hungry looking) little kittens in the street
Details from the Mosques
Details from the souks
Donkey
Silk hung down the street (bit of an abstract shot)
Winding streets of the Medina
Of note in Fez are the tanneries - where the skins of cows, goats and lambs are cleaned, dyed and made into bags, shoes, coats etc. Conducted on a grand scale, the smell is...somewhat less than pleasant.
We also wondered up the hills to the tombs to get a view over the city - here we met a Moroccan family having a picnic. The little girl kept bothering us for cash, so I gave her 10Dirhams (1 Euro) in exchange for a photo.
Also got a nice photo of the gf.
Overall, I preferred Fes to Marrakech. Had all the hustle and bustle but slightly less tourist orientated (i.e. fewer people trying to shaft you). It was with this thought in mind we proceeded west to Meknes.
Meknes
This town I enjoyed home to the gate - Bab Mansour (one of the largest in Morocco). A combination of mosaics and Roman columns, it is probably the most notable site in the town (plus a good place for photos).
It overlooks the market place, much quieter than Marrakech, come evenign however it really fills up. During the day, sitting at a cafe it is a prime place for people shots.
The souks are a pleasure. Very much geared for local people, the prices are more resonable and there is no hassle to buy. Most of the things we bought in Morocco were from here.
Casablanca
Only here for a few hours, stopping off from our train journey back to Marrakech. Our plan to see the Hassan II Mosque (second larget after Mecca) was scuppered owing to a royal visit. My snapping with a large telephoto attracted some 'official attention' and tbh, was lucky to not get the camera confiscated!
We did however have a really nice luch at the famous ' Ricks' Cafe' - very very nice and if you happen to find yourself in Casablanca, highly recommended.
And back to Marrakech
A random mix of bits and pieces, people and things in and around the souks of Marrakech:
Final day spent back in Marrakech. It was a shame we didn't have a touch longer, I think I'd have liked to travel further south to the Atlas Mountains and do some treking (and photograph some sunsets).
Worthwhile? I think so.
It's important to experience different cultures but I do admit Morocco is hard work. You have to be quite open minded and try not to constantly attach Western values otherwise you'll constantly find yourself getting annoyed. It's an interesting blend of tradition and modern westernised life. For me, this photo sums it up.Until the next adventure...
Great write up the pictures brought back a few smiles.
We went for the first time last year to Marrakech not knowing what to expect, within hrs. of getting home had booked again for this year just counting down only 5 weeks to go.
A trip to the atlas mountain was a highlight for me a mixture of fear as a petrol tanker decides your side of the road is way better than his, then near tears watching a local group of kids sharing a bag of sweets out like I had given them the winning lottery numbers.
A trip to a Kasbah also proved entertaining with the wife taking an innocent photo of a camel only to discover its owner was snoozing alongside and was mighty miffed with her
a good tip respect the beard.
We went for the first time last year to Marrakech not knowing what to expect, within hrs. of getting home had booked again for this year just counting down only 5 weeks to go.
A trip to the atlas mountain was a highlight for me a mixture of fear as a petrol tanker decides your side of the road is way better than his, then near tears watching a local group of kids sharing a bag of sweets out like I had given them the winning lottery numbers.
A trip to a Kasbah also proved entertaining with the wife taking an innocent photo of a camel only to discover its owner was snoozing alongside and was mighty miffed with her
a good tip respect the beard.Great photos. I'm glad I'm not the only one that found it a bit of a hassle when I went (2007), but then I wasn't that open minded to constant business requests (hashish, flowers, taxis, spare cash)...
Mind you I still liked Marrakesh, but Casablanca not so much (it's a big city with a different character from what it looks on the outside, it's still full of interesting people and some dodgy ones too) . Mid Atlas mountains were ok rather than spectacular, I found Snowdon area in Wales much nicer going a few months later (just to give you a perspective).
Mind you I still liked Marrakesh, but Casablanca not so much (it's a big city with a different character from what it looks on the outside, it's still full of interesting people and some dodgy ones too) . Mid Atlas mountains were ok rather than spectacular, I found Snowdon area in Wales much nicer going a few months later (just to give you a perspective).
Thanks for all the kind words. Hopefully it wasn't too boring sifting through all the photos!
Plenty of loperamide and codeine sorted things out in that respect (just about).
I wouldn't go back to do the cities again in the near future but the coast and Atlas Mountains do appeal. Perhaps in a few years time.
I've got a few other write ups still to do - German road trip and also our visit to Japan. Hopefully get them up in the next month or so if anyone is interested.
FreeLitres said:
Did you get through your trip without a dicky tummy?
I found the place was a bit too much for me. I'm glad I went but I wouldn't go back.
Actually I did get a bout of the old traveller's diarrhoea. I found the place was a bit too much for me. I'm glad I went but I wouldn't go back.
Plenty of loperamide and codeine sorted things out in that respect (just about).I wouldn't go back to do the cities again in the near future but the coast and Atlas Mountains do appeal. Perhaps in a few years time.
I've got a few other write ups still to do - German road trip and also our visit to Japan. Hopefully get them up in the next month or so if anyone is interested.
Like the photos. Brought back good memories from when I went in Nov '11 ...and all the bad memories too. I'd go into detail, but I'm in a good mood and I don't want to spoil it... Suffice it to say we won't be going back.
Minor criticism: did you intend to offer advice and a guide, or just recount your trip?
Minor criticism: did you intend to offer advice and a guide, or just recount your trip?
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