radiator shroud
Discussion
The continuing heat wave reminded me that at BBWF I saw at least 2 400/450 series cars (one of which was for sale) which did not have the rubber flaps in place on the cooling fan shroud. They do tend to eventually break off where they are riveted to the shroud, but I think they do serve a real purpose in forcing the fan to pull the airflow through the radiator when the vehicle is stationary or moving very slowly, rather than from around the side. I replaced mine when I last had the rad out, as I'm not entirely sure if the shroud can be removed whilst the rad is in place. Anyway, a couple of pics to help:
I went down the sans shroud route and fitted 2 pullers face up to the rad (old single died, unable to find a new one at the time).
Then looked at the holes around the front where air can spill away and decided to fill em in. So a plate went from the front spoiler to the rad, the bit where you can normally fit your arm through. Same for the top, and messed with filling the sides in. Theory being all the air that hits the front has to go through the rad and not spill around the sides, also less chance of warm air from the engine getting sucked back in stuck in traffic. An assumption of mine, no proof.
Also saw what Adam did and like that. But wondering, do the fans need to be back a bit when there are cowls? Does that make sense?
Then looked at the holes around the front where air can spill away and decided to fill em in. So a plate went from the front spoiler to the rad, the bit where you can normally fit your arm through. Same for the top, and messed with filling the sides in. Theory being all the air that hits the front has to go through the rad and not spill around the sides, also less chance of warm air from the engine getting sucked back in stuck in traffic. An assumption of mine, no proof.
Also saw what Adam did and like that. But wondering, do the fans need to be back a bit when there are cowls? Does that make sense?
Transmitter Man said:
GV said:
Is having a shroud effective?
More than you think.Very effective indeed if everything sealed.
Phil
420 SEAC
jmorgan said:
do the fans need to be back a bit when there are cowls? Does that make sense?
Hi Mate..I believe the fans should have a gap between the rad and the fans with a cowl..Probably a minimum of 25mm otherwise the fans will only pull from where they are fitted..Ideally as phil said..The cowling edges should be sealed for maximum effect..A rubber seal around the outer edge of the cowling where it touches the rad would suffice..Otherwise you are pulling in hot air from the engine compartment...I would fit a cowling if i had a bit more space between the rad and the engine...Ziga I can fit a cowl, had a chat with a few that said "OK no cowl" and others said "oh yes, cowl", then asked on here donkeys years ago and cannot remember but been without a cowl for quite a few years now. The fans are tight to the rad. The original wedges if memory serves also went with fans against the rad.
My only concern is the rise in temp in traffic so wonder if that might help. I do think the fans I have are pants and need changing. So the ides is one off, all off and fit a cowl at the time.
I still think the filling in of gaps on the front has made a difference though, air entering the front has to go through the rad.
I did use an anemometer with my fans and around 30mph at the blade tips then a short way from the tip towards the centre, sod all!
My only concern is the rise in temp in traffic so wonder if that might help. I do think the fans I have are pants and need changing. So the ides is one off, all off and fit a cowl at the time.
I still think the filling in of gaps on the front has made a difference though, air entering the front has to go through the rad.
I did use an anemometer with my fans and around 30mph at the blade tips then a short way from the tip towards the centre, sod all!
I used 3mm ally so I could fix the fans to it properly the shroud is about 10mm off the tanks and the capillaries are about 10 mm in from the tanks so all up the body of the fans are approx 23mm from the capillaries, roughly.
The top and bottom are sealed but there are gaps still as you can see from the top pic down each side, I do intend putting a rubber seal there, however it does work really well, a massive difference, as soon as the water temp hits 81 they are on and the temp rapidly drops to 78 and they switch off, it never did that before they batteled the 81-90 all the way so I'm waiting to see how it goes on a 45 deg day in summer, it's winter at the moment and I've only tested on a 22deg day at most (a pommie summer day you might say)
Cheers
Adam
The top and bottom are sealed but there are gaps still as you can see from the top pic down each side, I do intend putting a rubber seal there, however it does work really well, a massive difference, as soon as the water temp hits 81 they are on and the temp rapidly drops to 78 and they switch off, it never did that before they batteled the 81-90 all the way so I'm waiting to see how it goes on a 45 deg day in summer, it's winter at the moment and I've only tested on a 22deg day at most (a pommie summer day you might say)
Cheers
Adam
Oz2 said:
I used 3mm ally so I could fix the fans to it properly the shroud is about 10mm off the tanks and the capillaries are about 10 mm in from the tanks so all up the body of the fans are approx 23mm from the capillaries, roughly.
The top and bottom are sealed but there are gaps still as you can see from the top pic down each side, I do intend putting a rubber seal there, however it does work really well, a massive difference, as soon as the water temp hits 81 they are on and the temp rapidly drops to 78 and they switch off, it never did that before they batteled the 81-90 all the way so I'm waiting to see how it goes on a 45 deg day in summer, it's winter at the moment and I've only tested on a 22deg day at most (a pommie summer day you might say)
Cheers
Adam
I think we're having a bit more of a Summer this year had several days in the last few weeks into the 30C+ range, my min/max thermometer has registered as high as 35C!The top and bottom are sealed but there are gaps still as you can see from the top pic down each side, I do intend putting a rubber seal there, however it does work really well, a massive difference, as soon as the water temp hits 81 they are on and the temp rapidly drops to 78 and they switch off, it never did that before they batteled the 81-90 all the way so I'm waiting to see how it goes on a 45 deg day in summer, it's winter at the moment and I've only tested on a 22deg day at most (a pommie summer day you might say)
Cheers
Adam
I think I need a cowl on my wedge....... might be time to experiment.
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