Discussion
Have had a misfiring/cutting out issue for a while now and finally have fault codes logged in the ECU. Rovergauge fault codes 17 (Throttle pot sensor) and 19 (Throttle sensor output too hi/high airflow). Looks to me that the TPS is goosed but before I order a new one can someone (blitz??) confirm that this is indeed the problem, please?
Also any recommendations where to get a replacement (serp engine)?
Also any recommendations where to get a replacement (serp engine)?
The serp TPS is ridiculously expensive. I used this part here when mine gave in http://www.autoelectricalspares.co.uk/lucas-seb201...
I was advised by Sardonicus in this thread.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
The wire colours are different but there is info within the bible to help. I just cut the plugs, soldered and heat shrink the cores and its worked great ever since. I am abroad at the moment so cannot walk out to the garage to take a picture. Someone else will probably be along soon who has also done this.
I was advised by Sardonicus in this thread.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
The wire colours are different but there is info within the bible to help. I just cut the plugs, soldered and heat shrink the cores and its worked great ever since. I am abroad at the moment so cannot walk out to the garage to take a picture. Someone else will probably be along soon who has also done this.
Give V8 Developments a call - Rob keeps the standard one when he replaces it with a bigger one (20 AM), so should have a few to hand with any luck. Number is 01775 750000. Bear in mind that with the dyno running he might not hear the phone, so be patient. If you decide to email, he tends to do his emails in the evening.
Thanks QBee. Spoke to Rob and he will have a look around to see if he has one (used) I can try. Also spoke to Keith at Racetech who is talking to someone about manufacturing some decent sensors; apparently the current aftermarket (Britpart) ones are not reliable!!?
At the moment I can't find any original Lucas ones anywhere so we are all stuffed if the TPS goes wrong!!
At the moment I can't find any original Lucas ones anywhere so we are all stuffed if the TPS goes wrong!!
Thanks for your suggestions.
I have checked the voltage with a multimeter (digital) and whilst the readings are within range I cannot accurately test the swing from min to max to see if the voltage is rising smoothly. I am of course assuming that the ECU can, and has, seen a false reading and now is telling me, via the fault codes, that the TPS is the culprit! I have been chasing this intermittent fault since I got the car and up until now no fault codes were registered and just assumed like everyone does that 'they all do that', despite having taken it to various experts to analyse whose judgement ranged from 'probably needs a new cam' to TADT!!!
Looking on the positive side if I get a replacement and it proves not to be the problem, I will have a perfect 'original' Lucas TPS that on the current market must be worth several hundreds!!!!!
I have checked the voltage with a multimeter (digital) and whilst the readings are within range I cannot accurately test the swing from min to max to see if the voltage is rising smoothly. I am of course assuming that the ECU can, and has, seen a false reading and now is telling me, via the fault codes, that the TPS is the culprit! I have been chasing this intermittent fault since I got the car and up until now no fault codes were registered and just assumed like everyone does that 'they all do that', despite having taken it to various experts to analyse whose judgement ranged from 'probably needs a new cam' to TADT!!!
Looking on the positive side if I get a replacement and it proves not to be the problem, I will have a perfect 'original' Lucas TPS that on the current market must be worth several hundreds!!!!!
Either Rovergauge or a test meter will pick up a crack or wear point on the track if its bad, but if its heat related (considering the heat range these are subjected to) you wont see it sat in the car moving the throttle. If the fault is relogged by the ECU Id say its goosed. Ive looked at possible replacements in the motor sport world, but nothing is plug compatable so far over resistance range or angle. Considering the excessive costs involved and what the throttle pot does, I reckon it would be easier to simply find something off another car that could be made to physically fit, and then tweek the output with other resistors / electronics to bring it into range. Probibly a good excuse to wander around a scrap yard for an hour or two to find something.
Thanks for your comments blitz. Possibly racetech or someone will engineer a solution but in the meanwhile I have bought an aftermarket one from Rimmer Bros.(£87)
Can you still wander round a scrap yard like in the good ol' days??? Thought the HSE had put the mockers on that!!!! Can remember the one I used to go to with the cars leaking fuel and oil and the guys stripping them with a fag going non-stop
!!!! Ah those were the days!
Can you still wander round a scrap yard like in the good ol' days??? Thought the HSE had put the mockers on that!!!! Can remember the one I used to go to with the cars leaking fuel and oil and the guys stripping them with a fag going non-stop
!!!! Ah those were the days!blitzracing said:
Either Rovergauge or a test meter will pick up a crack or wear point on the track if its bad, but if its heat related (considering the heat range these are subjected to) you wont see it sat in the car moving the throttle. If the fault is relogged by the ECU Id say its goosed. Ive looked at possible replacements in the motor sport world, but nothing is plug compatable so far over resistance range or angle. Considering the excessive costs involved and what the throttle pot does, I reckon it would be easier to simply find something off another car that could be made to physically fit, and then tweek the output with other resistors / electronics to bring it into range. Probibly a good excuse to wander around a scrap yard for an hour or two to find something.
What do we need to look for on a scrappy yard walk. TPS from any RV8, STI etc. Or can a goosed one with crack or wear point be repaired? Does an Emerald ECU need one? Sorry, I'm hoping to learn through ignorance !EGB said:
blitzracing said:
Either Rovergauge or a test meter will pick up a crack or wear point on the track if its bad, but if its heat related (considering the heat range these are subjected to) you wont see it sat in the car moving the throttle. If the fault is relogged by the ECU Id say its goosed. Ive looked at possible replacements in the motor sport world, but nothing is plug compatable so far over resistance range or angle. Considering the excessive costs involved and what the throttle pot does, I reckon it would be easier to simply find something off another car that could be made to physically fit, and then tweek the output with other resistors / electronics to bring it into range. Probibly a good excuse to wander around a scrap yard for an hour or two to find something.
What do we need to look for on a scrappy yard walk. TPS from any RV8, STI etc. Or can a goosed one with crack or wear point be repaired? Does an Emerald ECU need one? Sorry, I'm hoping to learn through ignorance !Thought I would post the following to complete my imput to this topic and hopefully help someone with a similar symptom of erratic misfire/misfuel causing the car to shunt at approx. 1800-2000 rpm (just the revs for driving the Chim in a civilized manner!!).
As above post, bought an aftermarket TPS from Rimmers (part no ETC6443P) which is bagged as a Britpart but stamped Lucas, Made in England!
Had to cut and solder the cables and shrink-tube them, and once fitted to the car adjust the voltage to 0.32-0.34v at tickover and test (with ign on/engine off) to max WOT 4.6-5.0v. This is easy.
Put the lid down and take for a test drive.
WOW what a difference, the Chim now transformed!!
Drive in a 'civilized fashion to local hostelry and toast success!
Thanks to all who contributed and if anyone is wondering if their Chim should be better I would recommend trying a new TPS!
As above post, bought an aftermarket TPS from Rimmers (part no ETC6443P) which is bagged as a Britpart but stamped Lucas, Made in England!
Had to cut and solder the cables and shrink-tube them, and once fitted to the car adjust the voltage to 0.32-0.34v at tickover and test (with ign on/engine off) to max WOT 4.6-5.0v. This is easy.
Put the lid down and take for a test drive.
WOW what a difference, the Chim now transformed!!
Drive in a 'civilized fashion to local hostelry and toast success!
Thanks to all who contributed and if anyone is wondering if their Chim should be better I would recommend trying a new TPS!
Edited by yknot on Monday 19th May 12:51
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