Oh, and what about paint ? !

Oh, and what about paint ? !

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Discussion

restoman

Original Poster:

939 posts

209 months

Saturday 4th June 2011
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Hi

The other day you guys gave me some good advice about buying an airbrush to use for repainting die cast models. The other obvious question that I forgot to ask, what sort of paint would you use and where would you obtain it?

Thanks again.

Eric Mc

122,108 posts

266 months

Sunday 5th June 2011
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Model paints are divided into two main categories, water based acrylics and oil based enamels.

Enamels have been around the longest and for many years were the mainstay of model makers. They can be brush painted (usually) straight from the tin but for airbrushing need to be thinned using white spirit/turpentine/turpentine suubstitute or enamel thinners. Their main adavantage is that there are huge ranges available from the likes of Humbrol, Revell, White Ensign, Xtracolour etc. The main disadavanage are long drying times and odours.

In the past 20 years, acrylics have come to the fore. Being water based, they can be thinned with water - although I prefer to use the thinner recommended for the relevant brand I am using. They are less condusive to brush painting, especially over large areas, but work well when airbrushed. Their main advantages are that they dry quickly and are generally less smelly than enamels.

Producers of acrylics are Tamiya, Revell, Humbrol, Citadel, Xtracrylic, Lifecolor etc

Halfords aerosol cans (which are popular with car modellers) are also acrlyic based. Although they can be sprayed straight from the can, many modeller prefer to decant the paint into a cup, leave the paint overnight to allow propellant gases to dissipate and then spray using their airbrush.

restoman

Original Poster:

939 posts

209 months

Sunday 5th June 2011
quotequote all
OK thanks smile

SlipStream77

2,153 posts

192 months

Sunday 5th June 2011
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I think Eric's covered most of it, but I would add that enamels tend to adhere to surfaces better.

Sometimes acrylic can lift when masking tape is removed, to avoid it make sure the surface is clean and/or primed.

Eric Mc

122,108 posts

266 months

Monday 6th June 2011
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SlipStream77 said:
I think Eric's covered most of it, but I would add that enamels tend to adhere to surfaces better.

Sometimes acrylic can lift when masking tape is removed, to avoid it make sure the surface is clean and/or primed.
To be honest, I've not had any real problems with acrylics. I think the key (literally) is having a good primer coat laid down first. Halfords acrylic spay primers are pretty good and easy to obtain.

Evangelion

7,754 posts

179 months

Monday 6th June 2011
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Last kit I bought went:

Halfords plastic primer,
Tamiya acrylics for colours,
Coat of Halfords clear lacquer,
Decals,
Another coat of Halfords clear,
Final coat of Tamiya clear with Flat Base added (as it needed a matt finish).

Skii

1,633 posts

192 months

Tuesday 7th June 2011
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Just a word of warning with Halfords Primer - be careful how you apply it as it can go on very thick and obscure fine surface detail if you are not careful, applying it from to far results in a sandpapery finish as it dries extremely quickly before it hits the surface of the model.

Apply it in quick swipes a few inches from the model surface to get a smooth finish.

Use the technique in this video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7NH5iZX7Lk


Evangelion

7,754 posts

179 months

Tuesday 7th June 2011
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I never spray direct from a spray can. I either it into another container, then pour that into the airbrush or spray gun for total control.