Help Needed - A Significant list of issues and help needed.

Help Needed - A Significant list of issues and help needed.

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Discussion

Eviltad

Original Poster:

1,320 posts

180 months

Friday 12th August 2011
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1. Garage "fractured" my dipstick. Went to check oil level last week and "fracture" was more of a "shear" so I've got 75% of a dipstick stuck down there. Is there a quick way of getting this out??

2. Another Garage replaced front pads, discs and wear sensor this week after brake light came on. All repaired but brake light still on. They cannot figure out why it is still on as they have used OEM parts. We've both tried resetting it without any luck. Any idea's of how to get the light off?

3. I noticed I had a Xenon light out on way home. I've taken the back of the light and the bulb base and Part No.7 on the diagram show signs of intense heat and blackening. Is this the ballast? Easy job to fix?



There are probably others but this will do for now.

Getting sick of this now, its got to 120,000 and its all going wrong.

Help Appreciated.

RKDE

569 posts

211 months

Friday 12th August 2011
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1. It happens and they should be changed when they start looking worn, this happens to all the minis I assume you have been checking the condition when you check the oil. to get it out you will need to pull the MFE forward and remove the lower bolt of the guide, remove it and get the rest of the stick out

2. How are you resetting it? just turn the key to position 2 and wait about 2 minutes, turn off and that should do it, if it does not then the plug at the front isn't together correctly

3. The lights come apart so easily you should have no problem replacing that part.

120k what else is wrong, the above is just general maintenance


Eviltad

Original Poster:

1,320 posts

180 months

Friday 12th August 2011
quotequote all
Thanks RKDE.

1. MFE? Modular Front End?

2. Will try resetting for 2 mins then. Just to be clear. Position 2 is when lights on dash come on? I've been moving to this position for 30 seconds+ a bit then switching off. Is the light expected to clear in that time?

3. Is this the ballast part? Do you think I need full xenon harness or does it come off easily?

In general the backbox is blowing (£350), all 4 wheels could do with a refurb (£200), I've got a rust patch around handle on tailgate (£300), I've got vandal damage on roof and bonnet and the stone-chips would be done as well (£450) on top of that the engine has a rattle since I updated the clutch & flywheel and doesn't ever sound "right". Maybe I'm being negative but it needs about £2k spending to get it as I'd want and its only worth £2k trade in

If I had more space/tools/garage/mechanical skills I'd have more of a go at the repairs myself but I have limited opportunity and equipment. frown

RKDE

569 posts

211 months

Sunday 14th August 2011
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Eviltad said:
Thanks RKDE.

1. MFE? Modular Front End?

2. Will try resetting for 2 mins then. Just to be clear. Position 2 is when lights on dash come on? I've been moving to this position for 30 seconds+ a bit then switching off. Is the light expected to clear in that time?

3. Is this the ballast part? Do you think I need full xenon harness or does it come off easily?

In general the backbox is blowing (£350), all 4 wheels could do with a refurb (£200), I've got a rust patch around handle on tailgate (£300), I've got vandal damage on roof and bonnet and the stone-chips would be done as well (£450) on top of that the engine has a rattle since I updated the clutch & flywheel and doesn't ever sound "right". Maybe I'm being negative but it needs about £2k spending to get it as I'd want and its only worth £2k trade in

If I had more space/tools/garage/mechanical skills I'd have more of a go at the repairs myself but I have limited opportunity and equipment. frown
  • Yes MFE is modular front end.
  • I am not sure what has gone the best thing for you to do is take the parts from the other side and try them till you find the fault then go and get just that part
Well dounds like you have a bit of work but it also sounds quite expensive the rust should not cost anywhere near that to fix, are you paying London prices? The exhaust if the original has done very well - get on to minitorque and ask for someone changing theres for a stock one there are plenty floating around out there and should cost you very little.

Sadly vandal is just something that shouldn't be does happen. as for your clutch rattle what did you put in there? I know the CM and all lightweight flywheels can rattle as do all the bearings which is normal but it would be good to know what you have put in there.

Take it easy, they are fun cars, but clearly yours just needs some love in its age, fix the issues and it will keep you going. Maybe you will have to do some more things yourself to save a bit of cash or maybe just get another boot and change it over if the colour is close enough

Eviltad

Original Poster:

1,320 posts

180 months

Tuesday 16th August 2011
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Clutch was changed at 100k just as preventative maintenance and I think it was on OEM equivalent.

Rattle continued so flywheel got switched too.

Good idea about exhaust, will post on there to see.

Robbing BMW want me to buy the bulb assembly to get replacement part I want and a bulb is £140!

Poprin

39 posts

156 months

Tuesday 23rd August 2011
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1. = Take to Mini dealer
2. = Take to Mini dealer
3. = Take to Mini dealer

At least thats what I do when mine brakes and then they ring me up, I go and collect it and it's all fixed! It's great!

jack_st

278 posts

196 months

Tuesday 23rd August 2011
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speak to 1320.com they will be able to help you

Eviltad

Original Poster:

1,320 posts

180 months

Tuesday 23rd August 2011
quotequote all
jack_st said:
speak to 1320.com they will be able to help you
Too far. I was spoilt by having a mini specialist on doorstep in Leeds but now I'm at least an hour from anyone.

Plus none of these little jobs should be complicated and I refuse to pay £48 an hour to have someone do jobs I can do (with the help of the internet).

Have got a Xenon part ordered from MiniSpares now anyway, it will just need chopping and soldering in. How many ways can that go wrong???

ch427

9,037 posts

234 months

Friday 26th August 2011
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did the pads etc on a 2007 model recently and had to enter the service menu via dash buttons to reset brake warning lamp

hyperblue

2,803 posts

181 months

Friday 26th August 2011
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Poprin said:
1. = Take to Mini dealer
2. = Take to Mini dealer
3. = Take to Mini dealer

At least thats what I do when mine brakes and then they ring me up, I go and collect it and it's all fixed! It's great!
I'm guessing he wants help that doesn't involve bending over...

Eviltad

Original Poster:

1,320 posts

180 months

Saturday 27th August 2011
quotequote all
OK so to update Item 3 is now resolved. Auto Electrician soldered the chopped part on this Morning. So far so good. £18 labour.

Next step, the exhaust and dipstick.

I've been scanning Mini-Torque but without much luck standard exhaust-wise. Will persevere.

dandarez

13,300 posts

284 months

Sunday 28th August 2011
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If that was me, and my car was worth £2k trade in, 'and' I was gonna spending another £2k just so it would still only be worth £2k...

Well, I'd trade it in as it is, and use the other £2k to buy a £4k (hopefully much better) MINI. wink

AndyM31

817 posts

206 months

Tuesday 30th August 2011
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Hi there,

Cant comment on all but I can on point 2. Recently I had my brakes changed and part of the change was the sensor cable that attaches to the assembly by the wheel. The cost of this cabe was 18.00 GBP's.

Once the brakes were replaced and the cable changed, no warning lights were present, I'm good for another 33k miles.

Hope this helps.

Eviltad

Original Poster:

1,320 posts

180 months

Thursday 1st September 2011
quotequote all
AndyM31 said:
Hi there,

Cant comment on all but I can on point 2. Recently I had my brakes changed and part of the change was the sensor cable that attaches to the assembly by the wheel. The cost of this cabe was 18.00 GBP's.

Once the brakes were replaced and the cable changed, no warning lights were present, I'm good for another 33k miles.

Hope this helps.
Thanks Andy. Missed a key point I think. Cable was changed but still light is on. Process of elimination means either the rear has been triggered at same time as the front or the front cable is not located probably.

I need to whip wheels off and have a look.