Road vs MTB SPDs?
Discussion
Evening all,
I'm looking for some advice on what sort of pedals/shoes to get.
I currently use MTB SPDs and pedals on my commute. Annoyingly, my supposedly waterproof overshoes aren't waterproof at all, so I'm now looking at getting a second pair of shoes to keep in the office so that I know I won't have to put on soaking wet shoes to start my ride home if it rains in the morning.
This is the point at which I've discovered that there actually are differences between road and MTB shoes!
So, question is, what's the difference in the real world?
Most of my riding at the moment is my commute (around 90-120 miles per week with lots of traffic lights and junctions), but I also intend to start working in a weekend ride around quieter Surrey lanes which will start at about 40 miles and go up from there as I get fitter.
How much hassle would proper road SPDs be on the commute with all those stops? Would it be worth putting up with for the weekend rides?
I don't want to end up swapping pedals for the weekends and buying even more pairs of shoes! My instinct at the moment is to just go with MTB shoes for everything, fitting MTB pedals to my new road bike next year. Can anyone think of a reason not to? Fashion and/or etiquette reasons will not count!
I'm looking for some advice on what sort of pedals/shoes to get.
I currently use MTB SPDs and pedals on my commute. Annoyingly, my supposedly waterproof overshoes aren't waterproof at all, so I'm now looking at getting a second pair of shoes to keep in the office so that I know I won't have to put on soaking wet shoes to start my ride home if it rains in the morning.
This is the point at which I've discovered that there actually are differences between road and MTB shoes!
So, question is, what's the difference in the real world?
Most of my riding at the moment is my commute (around 90-120 miles per week with lots of traffic lights and junctions), but I also intend to start working in a weekend ride around quieter Surrey lanes which will start at about 40 miles and go up from there as I get fitter.
How much hassle would proper road SPDs be on the commute with all those stops? Would it be worth putting up with for the weekend rides?
I don't want to end up swapping pedals for the weekends and buying even more pairs of shoes! My instinct at the moment is to just go with MTB shoes for everything, fitting MTB pedals to my new road bike next year. Can anyone think of a reason not to? Fashion and/or etiquette reasons will not count!
The difference is that all the gear no idea roadies will look at you snobbily for using mtb pedals on a road bike 
Road shoes are a bit stiffer but diminishing returns kicks in long before the average bear needs to worry about it.
3 bikes, 2 mtb 1 road, all with mtb pedals and just the one pair of shoes. That said when it rains or I have a really muddy mtb ride its all a bit minging the next day getting into them again, so maybe 2 pairs could be justified
Road shoes are a bit stiffer but diminishing returns kicks in long before the average bear needs to worry about it.
3 bikes, 2 mtb 1 road, all with mtb pedals and just the one pair of shoes. That said when it rains or I have a really muddy mtb ride its all a bit minging the next day getting into them again, so maybe 2 pairs could be justified
Fashion / etiquette dont really factor as lots of people that ride on the road use mtb style spd's and shoes, i dont think anyone who's opinion ought to bother you really gives it a second thought. I started off with them because i wanted one pair of shoes that could be used on both bikes and that suited me fine initially.
It was only as i started to do more and more road miles that i invested in a pair of Look Keo's and some carbon sole shoes for the road bike. They do certainly make a noticable difference, gripping the cleat better and allowing a more efficient pedal stroke. That said they are certainly more difficult to clip in and out of at traffic lights - particularly when its wet, super stiff carbon soles are very slippery. So for a daily commute in traffic it would have to be mtb shoes and cleats for ease of use - you can get lightweight(ish), stiff mtb shoes - Specialized BG Pro / S-works for example. But if your going to start doing serious miles at the weekend then you will appreciate the benefits of a proper road specific pair. I guess that this ramble concludes with your being better with two sets of pedals / shoes - or even better more bikes if possible!
It was only as i started to do more and more road miles that i invested in a pair of Look Keo's and some carbon sole shoes for the road bike. They do certainly make a noticable difference, gripping the cleat better and allowing a more efficient pedal stroke. That said they are certainly more difficult to clip in and out of at traffic lights - particularly when its wet, super stiff carbon soles are very slippery. So for a daily commute in traffic it would have to be mtb shoes and cleats for ease of use - you can get lightweight(ish), stiff mtb shoes - Specialized BG Pro / S-works for example. But if your going to start doing serious miles at the weekend then you will appreciate the benefits of a proper road specific pair. I guess that this ramble concludes with your being better with two sets of pedals / shoes - or even better more bikes if possible!
Edited by Raoul Duke on Wednesday 24th August 21:58
http://www.velominati.com/blog/the-rules/
Rule# 12 and Rule # 34
The way I read it, according to the 'Keepers of the Cog', you need at least one more bike and another set of pedals and shoes to go with it.
You could always break the rules. I, shame on me, break several of them, regularly. In answer to your question, I have no experience of MTB shoes/SPDs, having gone from Reynolds 531 and toe-clips/trainers straight to a high-end Alu frame and Carbon-soled SPD-SLs on my new roadie. The difference was huge. So much more efficiency, and more power from every pedal stroke. Downside of the road pedal/shoe combo, as has been mentioned, is looking like a complete idiot trying to walk in them, which isn't terribly suitable for the commute. On the MTB I have kept to a platform pedal, and ride in trainers or a pair of old lightweight waterproof walking boots, whichever suits on the day.
When I bought the new bike I looked at all sorts of shoes and seem to recall some 'winter boots' which claimed to be waterproof. The thing is, it was almost a year ago, and I forget whether they were SPDs or road SLs, but I do remember that they were damned expensive. FWIW anything that is completely waterproof is usually the equivalent of wearing a bin liner, so you will have to compromise, wet from the rain, or soaked in sweat, and you would probably be better off spending your time trying to find the end of a rainbow.
ETA: a very quick search revealed the following item. I guess there'll be more from other manufacturers:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-rw80-winter-road-b... - and an extract from one of the reviews: "Good boots very warm and dry I use SPD pedals and the protruding steel clip makes them awkward to walk anywhere, apart from that good product.."
Rule# 12 and Rule # 34
The way I read it, according to the 'Keepers of the Cog', you need at least one more bike and another set of pedals and shoes to go with it.
You could always break the rules. I, shame on me, break several of them, regularly. In answer to your question, I have no experience of MTB shoes/SPDs, having gone from Reynolds 531 and toe-clips/trainers straight to a high-end Alu frame and Carbon-soled SPD-SLs on my new roadie. The difference was huge. So much more efficiency, and more power from every pedal stroke. Downside of the road pedal/shoe combo, as has been mentioned, is looking like a complete idiot trying to walk in them, which isn't terribly suitable for the commute. On the MTB I have kept to a platform pedal, and ride in trainers or a pair of old lightweight waterproof walking boots, whichever suits on the day.
When I bought the new bike I looked at all sorts of shoes and seem to recall some 'winter boots' which claimed to be waterproof. The thing is, it was almost a year ago, and I forget whether they were SPDs or road SLs, but I do remember that they were damned expensive. FWIW anything that is completely waterproof is usually the equivalent of wearing a bin liner, so you will have to compromise, wet from the rain, or soaked in sweat, and you would probably be better off spending your time trying to find the end of a rainbow.
ETA: a very quick search revealed the following item. I guess there'll be more from other manufacturers:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-rw80-winter-road-b... - and an extract from one of the reviews: "Good boots very warm and dry I use SPD pedals and the protruding steel clip makes them awkward to walk anywhere, apart from that good product.."
If you ever, Ever need to walk more than 20 feet, stick with MTB style SPD's.
"Look" type road pedals, whilst a tad more comfortable and efficient on really long rides, are simply impossible to walk in. I've spatchcocked myself on Marble train station floors more than a couple of times because of road pedals. If you need to get from Foyer to desk or back door to garage, you need SPDs.
Shimano do Goretex cycling MTB shoes for £70 and up. Get some of those. Road shoes are actually worse for getting wet feet in my experience - they have vents in the sole to allow air into the shoes. And water.
"Look" type road pedals, whilst a tad more comfortable and efficient on really long rides, are simply impossible to walk in. I've spatchcocked myself on Marble train station floors more than a couple of times because of road pedals. If you need to get from Foyer to desk or back door to garage, you need SPDs.
Shimano do Goretex cycling MTB shoes for £70 and up. Get some of those. Road shoes are actually worse for getting wet feet in my experience - they have vents in the sole to allow air into the shoes. And water.
WeirdNeville said:
... I've spatchcocked myself on Marble train station floors more than a couple of times because of road pedals. If you need to get from Foyer to desk or back door to garage, you need SPDs.
LOL. coffee/keyboard interface problem!Years ago, before Look and SPD; we had aluminium plates on the bottom of our shoes. Duck walking.
MTB SPD on road bikes for me.
I commute in road shoes and pedals because they (Speedplays) feel much nicer to ride in than the SPDs and Eggbeaters I used with my MTB shoes. It's not _that_ hard to walk in them. I'd draw the line at doing a supermarket shop in them.
I've bought some Speedplay Frogs for the next bike, but have only tried them out briefly. The float is nice but they don't have a very positive engagement.
I've bought some Speedplay Frogs for the next bike, but have only tried them out briefly. The float is nice but they don't have a very positive engagement.
For commuting, it really is a no brainer. Having a shoe you can walk in, without sounding like Fred Astaire and without looking like Torvill and Dean, is essential. You will also not be buying new cleats every few months with a mtb orientated shoe.
High end MTB competition shoes (Shimano, Spesh, Sidi) are at least as good at transferring the power as the equivalent road SPD SL or Look/Keo cleated shoes.
It is not the cleat that matters, it is the stiffness of the sole. It is this alone that will ensure your whole foot transfers the power.
I have Shimano M183 with carbon sole inserts and my feet are perfectly comfortable after 5 hour rides on my road bike. If it is really wet or muddy, I go out on my mtb instead and wear my MT60s, which are reasonably waterproof.
High end MTB competition shoes (Shimano, Spesh, Sidi) are at least as good at transferring the power as the equivalent road SPD SL or Look/Keo cleated shoes.
It is not the cleat that matters, it is the stiffness of the sole. It is this alone that will ensure your whole foot transfers the power.
I have Shimano M183 with carbon sole inserts and my feet are perfectly comfortable after 5 hour rides on my road bike. If it is really wet or muddy, I go out on my mtb instead and wear my MT60s, which are reasonably waterproof.
Raven Flyer said:
It is not the cleat that matters, it is the stiffness of the sole. It is this alone that will ensure your whole foot transfers the power.
Of course cleats matter, or else everyone would just pick the cheapest available pedal system.Besides, if I went back to commuting in MTB cleats I'd have to take off the deep section carbon wheels.
Most high end MTB shoes are road shoes with extra treads on the botton so they are a little more comfortable to walk on.
MTB cleats are smaller for a number of reasons, mainly weight and to avoid damage by rock strikes. Roadie SPD's are longer and single sided so as to optimise the transfer of power to pedal / crank.
MTB cleats are smaller for a number of reasons, mainly weight and to avoid damage by rock strikes. Roadie SPD's are longer and single sided so as to optimise the transfer of power to pedal / crank.
Gooby said:
Roadie SPD's are longer and single sided so as to optimise the transfer of power to pedal / crank.
Techically, the only "roadie SPD" is the SPD-SL, and most road pedals (including the SPD-SL) are single sided, but Speedplays are double sided, including the Zero road pedals.Unfortunately more sides doesn't necessarily mean easier entry. I don't think my Zeros are easier to enter than single sided Looks or Times, the the four sided (MTB) Eggbeaters were similarly not-easy.
If you are sticking with SPDs, these work better with overshoes than MTB shoes
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-track-bike/T...
Still easy to chew through overshoes quickly.
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-track-bike/T...
Still easy to chew through overshoes quickly.
yellowjack said:
FWIW anything that is completely waterproof is usually the equivalent of wearing a bin liner, so you will have to compromise, wet from the rain, or soaked in sweat, and you would probably be better off spending your time trying to find the end of a rainbow.
ETA: a very quick search revealed the following item. I guess there'll be more from other manufacturers:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-rw80-winter-road-b... - and an extract from one of the reviews: "Good boots very warm and dry I use SPD pedals and the protruding steel clip makes them awkward to walk anywhere, apart from that good product.."
I've got them. No problem with sweaty feet. Used them today, very breathable. Despite this, good down to freezing temperatures too. The waterproofing on the boot is great - never let any water in. However, water can drip down your leg and get in the neoprene cuff. People say you can make seal using the end of a rubber glove, but I do think if you've paid £120 for some winter boots, they ought just work out of the box. Still, it's not really bothered me. I've used them on wet 200km rides, and whilst your wet can get a bit squelchy, they stay warm. No real signs of wear either, despite having done ~10000km in them. Only other caveat is that they are pretty heavy.ETA: a very quick search revealed the following item. I guess there'll be more from other manufacturers:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-rw80-winter-road-b... - and an extract from one of the reviews: "Good boots very warm and dry I use SPD pedals and the protruding steel clip makes them awkward to walk anywhere, apart from that good product.."
Thanks DrMekon.
That prompted a memory of other road shoes with 2 and 3 bolt compatibility, specifically these:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/dhb-r1-road-cycling-shoe/
That prompted a memory of other road shoes with 2 and 3 bolt compatibility, specifically these:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/dhb-r1-road-cycling-shoe/
Those shoes look interesting! The main reason I'm getting another pair is because every pair of overshoes I've tried has been utter crap. The best I've managed so far in heavy rain is about 5 miles before first water ingress, with my feet being totally drenched within another 5 miles or so.
The water comes in through the bottom, where the overshoes cannot fully seal against the shoe because of the MTB shoe tread, so I wonder if the waterproofing would be better on these?
The water comes in through the bottom, where the overshoes cannot fully seal against the shoe because of the MTB shoe tread, so I wonder if the waterproofing would be better on these?
HundredthIdiot said:
Raven Flyer said:
It is not the cleat that matters, it is the stiffness of the sole. It is this alone that will ensure your whole foot transfers the power.
Of course cleats matter, or else everyone would just pick the cheapest available pedal system.Besides, if I went back to commuting in MTB cleats I'd have to take off the deep section carbon wheels.
I am not sure why you commute with deep section carbon wheels (I have a suspicion) but why would you have to remove them if you used the same cleat as 90% of all other city commuters?
Raven Flyer said:
If you a rigid sole, please explain why the size of the metal fixing to the metal (or carbon) pedal matters in terms of energy transfer.
Energy transfer is only one criteria. Why would you fixate on that? I use Speedplays because my knees prefer the completely free float. Other people have other criteria, like entry/exit, ease of maintenance, style, weight, whatever.Raven Flyer said:
I am not sure why you commute with deep section carbon wheels (I have a suspicion) but why would you have to remove them if you used the same cleat as 90% of all other city commuters?
I wasn't being entirely serious.Gassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff