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MPETT

Original Poster:

856 posts

93 months

[news] 
Monday 5th September 2011 quote quote all
I've now taken my Cad D 2000 year Tuscan appart and now need to clean everything up and restore/replace with new some fo the parts.

What upgrades improvements would you make if you had the chance?

So far my plans are:

  • TVR Power Standard rebuild to S/red rose spec
  • Stip and Zinc coat chassis and wishbones
  • Rebuild Protech shocks
  • Fit polybushes all round
  • New upgraded clutch and slave cylendar
  • Change interior leather colour from grey to grey + black using furniture clinic relocour kit
  • Fit Tamora/Sagaris Cluster
  • Paint exterior in Lotus Electric Blue/Viper GTS or Red Bull Blue.
  • Upgrade performance of the HVAC system
  • Bump steer mod (new arm or 8mm raise of rack?)
  • Install iPad multimedia interface and high end Audio system
  • Heat relective shields in engine bay to cool cabin temps
  • Mk2 grill and winglets
  • LED taillights and Xenon headlamps
(I'd like to attend the Classic Le Mans next year so may have to reduce scope in the short term)








Edited by MPETT on Monday 24th October 22:49

Podie

41,684 posts

162 months

[news] 
Monday 5th September 2011 quote quote all
Depends on your objective. Are you looking to get it back on the road and sell it? Or is it a keeper?

MPETT

Original Poster:

856 posts

93 months

[news] 
Monday 5th September 2011 quote quote all
Its a keeper. I had a realy low mileage Tuscan 04 plate, but this was too good a car to mod, so I sold it and bought this to make my/the ultimate TVR (according to me!).

peteA

1,855 posts

121 months

[news] 
Monday 5th September 2011 quote quote all
...any idea why Croft is painted on the transmission cover?

Nice project - I'd say your list is pretty comprehensive...

900T-R

19,502 posts

144 months

[news] 
Monday 5th September 2011 quote quote all
Great project - subscribed. wink
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spartridge

844 posts

97 months

[news] 
Monday 5th September 2011 quote quote all
Chassis mounts for harnesses?

druids

64 posts

40 months

[news] 
Monday 5th September 2011 quote quote all
"Croft" is probably the name of one of the production lines at TVR. There were four, I believe, all named after racing circuits, no doubt to encourage the assembly boys and girls to get on with it!

dvs_dave

4,060 posts

112 months

[news] 
Tuesday 6th September 2011 quote quote all
Add to that list Ceramic coat the exhaust manifolds and nearside engine mount bracket. Will reduce heat soak even more and keep engine bay temp down, as well as stopping the engine mount rubber from melting every 5 mins.

JulianHJ

7,114 posts

149 months

[news] 
Tuesday 6th September 2011 quote quote all
MPETT said:
* Paint exterior in Lotus Electric Blue/Viper GTS or Red Bull Blue.
cloud9

MPETT

Original Poster:

856 posts

93 months

[news] 
Tuesday 6th September 2011 quote quote all
dvs_dave said:
Add to that list Ceramic coat the exhaust manifolds and nearside engine mount bracket. Will reduce heat soak even more and keep engine bay temp down, as well as stopping the engine mount rubber from melting every 5 mins.
Who donyou recconend using and what does it cost? I haven't heard of coating the mount?! Will this work on rubber? I've heard of shields.

dvs_dave

4,060 posts

112 months

[news] 
Tuesday 6th September 2011 quote quote all
Zircotec is the best but it's not cheap. Normal ceramic coating is a lot cheaper and probably 90% as effective but I don't think quite as durable.

With regards the mount, the primary reason it melts is from heat transfer from the bracket between the block and the rubber mount. As it runs between the manifolds it absorbs a lot of heat from the manifolds which it transfers into the rubber mount so melting it. It does also suffer from directly radiated heat from the manifolds, but this is not the main cause of failure.

Coating the manifolds reduces the radiated heat significantly anyway, but coating the bracket also will reduce the heat transfer further. If you're getting the manifolds done, you may as well throw the bracket in there at the same time as it won't cost any extra.

m3jappa

2,992 posts

105 months

[news] 
Tuesday 6th September 2011 quote quote all
Subscribed to this one. Cant help a lot but i will say i did the bump steer mod and used just a spacer which appears to have worked very well (although not sure how much better the str8 6 mod is, but this is miles cheaper).

Curdster

366 posts

71 months

[news] 
Sunday 25th September 2011 quote quote all
Martin. Very envious. I would love to do this to mine if I had the space and the balls.
Have you considered a brake upgrade? Increasing disc size, pad quality and hoses etc?
The only other thing for me would be looking at improving the aeros. Front splitter and something at the rear for balance. Often wondered about if you could run some sort of wing shapped unit on the under side of the chassis! Would it work?
Anyway good luck and progress pics as and when please.

leerdam23

496 posts

148 months

[news] 
Tuesday 27th September 2011 quote quote all
reinforce seat back wings so they don't bend
fit fan override switch
hinge the bonnet?
get nitrons
don't bother with zinc coating the chassis, it will add weight, some 50-70 kilos I believe!!
also, get the 4.3 upgrade. if power are doing a RR full rebuild you might as well... it's only a few £k more


ps, nice colour...

Edited by leerdam23 on Tuesday 27th September 13:39

MPETT

Original Poster:

856 posts

93 months

[news] 
Friday 30th September 2011 quote quote all
All great ideas guys and on my radar!! Unfortunately the build costs are on my wife's radar, so have to be reasonable. Base rebuild costs look like £7500. Dream rebuild cost £17000!!!

Off to rt racing to get chassis and wishbones treated!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8fNUFo-vcA&fea...

MPETT

Original Poster:

856 posts

93 months

[news] 
Sunday 16th October 2011 quote quote all
I'd hoped to gte RT racing to look at, repair and paint my chassis. But unfortunatley, the cost just escalated too much for my pocket. See the cost below:

> Bolt kits: £80 pounds
> Wishbone bush kits : £TBC
> 2 hours for the fitting: £100.00 ??

> Shot blasting of chassis and all wishbones £185.00
> Replacement of top tubes where pitted £300.00 6 hrs est
> Remove old bushes from wishbones and prep
up for powder coat £135.00 3 hrs est
> Bead blast, phosphate dip Zink prime and
epoxy powder coat all items & chassis £499.00


This equated to : £1299+vat = £1558.90

So in order to save money I'm going to sand bast the chassis locally and hopfully I can repair the pitted tube (if necessary) and repair the elongated chassis pick up point myself. I should realy get the chassis alignment checked, so perhaps before I paint it, I might take it up to sheffield and get it checked.

I've cleaned up the rear uprights and they don't look too bad. Well they say road grime protects, but in this case it was axle grease that had leaked from the rubber gaitors.

I've also looked at the seats and interior leather, cleaning them as I go. The frame had broken on the driver's bolster, so I had to remove it and I'm going to weld a stronger bracket in place.

Link of the latest tinkering: http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/882129743

Edited by MPETT on Sunday 16th October 23:11

MPETT

Original Poster:

856 posts

93 months

[news] 
Monday 17th October 2011 quote quote all
The broken seat side bolster bracket. Should be able to repair it with a new steel bracket.


Does anyone else quite like the Race Tuscan in GT5?


MPETT

Original Poster:

856 posts

93 months

[news] 
Monday 24th October 2011 quote quote all
I've just had the chassis and wishbones sand blasted. Got them back and you could see the corrosion forming after just 4 hours. The paint shop gave me a clear paint that seals the metal from the air/preserving its condition. I cut out the corosion that was caused by the proximity to the exhaust manifold then took a look a the wishbone pick up points on the chassis. Upon inspection I identified that there were 2 sets of deformed wishbone mounting points both of which were caused by the wheel being pushed backwards in the impact/accident. I also found a crack between the wishbone mounting plate and the chassis!

What do I do next? I'm not sure I can 100% fix the chassis and get the wisbone mounts fixed and straight. They say a good chassis needs to be within 1mm accurate side to side. Am I being overly perfectionist? I'm also in 2 minds re poly bushes or metalastic. Any thoughts?
The base coat on the wishbones

An example of the bushes condition

The clear coat paint

The chassis rust cut out and replaced

Can you spot the crack in the weld?

The front pick up point (minus the section of the front pick up point that had stretched)

The second front lower wishbone pick up point (stretched bolt hole also)



Edited by MPETT on Monday 24th October 22:51

Graham

15,385 posts

171 months

[news] 
Monday 24th October 2011 quote quote all
1mm accuracy on a TVR chassis? Are you serious

A mate was repairing a crash damaged metal bodied sports car and getting frustrated that he couldn't get the setback to less than 15 mm difference... On checking the manufacturer figures, that was within tolerance! For a car coming down the line....


On the poly v std bushes, I'm rebuilding my chum and after talking to a lot of specialists stock bushed going in

MPETT

Original Poster:

856 posts

93 months

[news] 
Monday 24th October 2011 quote quote all
Really? 15mm. I've been trying to digest info re suspension set up (the sports car and kit car suspension and brakes high performance manual) what a mouthful, and that says any more than 3mm difference side to side will make the car impossible to get handling well! The RTRacing jig is meant to be super accurate, so was thinking that might be a necessity for piece of mind whilst the chassis is bare.
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