Step by step oil change manual SR3
Discussion
With the help of Trev I put together an oil change manual. It might be helpful to other newbies like myself. Please add any info if I forgot something:
Oil and Filter Change Radical SR3
1. Remove front and rear body panels
2. Loosen wheel nuts
3. Lift car and set the car onto axel stands– First I use a quick jack on the front, remove the front wheels and support the car on axel stands (make sure to use padding to not damage the threat of the wheel shaft). Second I use a trolley jack to lift the rear, remove wheels and support on axle stands. The car has to be high enough to get underneath and access the oil filter. If you do not want to change the filter it is not necessary to lift the car onto axel stands but is still highly recommended as access is much easier if the car is above ground.(Be aware that if you do not place the car on axel stands you will need to roll the car over the wide front part of the dropped rear diffuser to be able to remove the rear diffuser from under the car)
4. Remove rear diffuser – 2 x ½” bolts at the rear and 2 allen/hex key bolts holding the diffuser in the middle part. Diffuser will drop and it is advised to have something cushioning the drop onto the floor.
5. Start car and warm up oil to at least 50 degree. To speed up the oil temp increase I place a towel in front of the oil cooler (side pod opening).
6. Disconnect oil line from sump pan that connects to the bottom of oil tank which will then drain all the oil from oil pan and tank. Be aware that the oil will come out off the line at an angle and it is easy to spill it all over the floor instead of your oil catch pan. I also undo the magnetic oil drain nut on the oil pan to inspect for any metal debris and drain any trapped oil.
7. Remove the oil filter. Mine was secured with a hose clamp which needs to be removed first. When installing new filter make sure to oil the rubber seal first. Re-install hand-tight - do not over tighten.
8. Refill with 5.5 l oil via the oil tank and wait five minutes for the oil to drain into the sump.
9. Start engine and check for any leaks. Follow Radical oil level check procedure to make sure oil is at the correct level. Add oil if necessary or syphon oil off if too full.
10. Install rear diffuser, tyres and body panels.
Oil and Filter Change Radical SR3
1. Remove front and rear body panels
2. Loosen wheel nuts
3. Lift car and set the car onto axel stands– First I use a quick jack on the front, remove the front wheels and support the car on axel stands (make sure to use padding to not damage the threat of the wheel shaft). Second I use a trolley jack to lift the rear, remove wheels and support on axle stands. The car has to be high enough to get underneath and access the oil filter. If you do not want to change the filter it is not necessary to lift the car onto axel stands but is still highly recommended as access is much easier if the car is above ground.(Be aware that if you do not place the car on axel stands you will need to roll the car over the wide front part of the dropped rear diffuser to be able to remove the rear diffuser from under the car)
4. Remove rear diffuser – 2 x ½” bolts at the rear and 2 allen/hex key bolts holding the diffuser in the middle part. Diffuser will drop and it is advised to have something cushioning the drop onto the floor.
5. Start car and warm up oil to at least 50 degree. To speed up the oil temp increase I place a towel in front of the oil cooler (side pod opening).
6. Disconnect oil line from sump pan that connects to the bottom of oil tank which will then drain all the oil from oil pan and tank. Be aware that the oil will come out off the line at an angle and it is easy to spill it all over the floor instead of your oil catch pan. I also undo the magnetic oil drain nut on the oil pan to inspect for any metal debris and drain any trapped oil.
7. Remove the oil filter. Mine was secured with a hose clamp which needs to be removed first. When installing new filter make sure to oil the rubber seal first. Re-install hand-tight - do not over tighten.
8. Refill with 5.5 l oil via the oil tank and wait five minutes for the oil to drain into the sump.
9. Start engine and check for any leaks. Follow Radical oil level check procedure to make sure oil is at the correct level. Add oil if necessary or syphon oil off if too full.
10. Install rear diffuser, tyres and body panels.
Edited by BioBa on Tuesday 28th August 06:07
I'd be interested to know what you all think the proceedure for checking the dry sump level is as I have seen several different versions of it. Some say it should be with the engine running and some say hot but off. Also, some say there is a dip stick and some say use the top baffle as a reference. Thoughts? Cheers.
I have a Radical Oil Dip stick with three lines and follow the Radical recomended procedure: A) Get engine oil temperature above 50 degrees B) Rev engine at 4000 rpm for 15-20 sec. C) Shut off engine and QUICKLY check oil level. Level should be above the mid line but below the top line.
Have had dry sumped 1300 SR4 and 1500 SR3 and both came with the dipstick; does the job fine, but trouble is if you try to use it when the engine is running, the oil is splashing around so much they tell you/you can read nothing. So the way we did it was to get the oil nice and hot, give it say ten seconds at 5K-ish to draw the oil into the dry sump tank (as it would normally run), kill the engine and dipstick it immediately.
Dipstick method is essential on the SR4; where it's positioned means you can't look into the tank to 'see' the level.
PS BioBa ........... we crossed.
Dipstick method is essential on the SR4; where it's positioned means you can't look into the tank to 'see' the level.
PS BioBa ........... we crossed.
paulmj said:
I don't suppose one of you fine chaps could post the dimensions of the dip stick so I can knock one up can you?
Many thanks.
I could send you a picture. Dimensions allone are not that helpful as the dip stick is also angeled (has a kink). If you let me know your e-mail I send you a picture with the dimensions. In Piston Heads we unfortunately can't post pictures. Many thanks.
double d racing said:
with the dipstick; does the job fine, but trouble is if you try to use it when the engine is running, the oil is splashing around so much they tell you/you can read nothing.
mmmmmmmmmmmmmmm....I'm still mopping up from the last time you did that ( tee heeeeee...)
D D
Just noticed that .............. I should explain!mmmmmmmmmmmmmmm....I'm still mopping up from the last time you did that ( tee heeeeee...)
D D
If you want to get a discernable reading on the DST dipstick, get hot, rev, kill, take off cap, quickly dip, read.
If you want to get indecipherable reading on the DST dipstick, get hot, don't kill, take off cap, dip whenever you wish and play games trying to read a dipstick covered with oil everywhere.
If you want to spend a couple of hours cleaning hot oil off everywhere, including engine side of rear diffuser and using most of some kind soul's paper towelling in the process (thanks DD!), get hot, kill engine, take off DST cap and restart the motor; you will be amazed at how quickly the oil rises in and spurts out of the DST on start up. Let's just say you'll only want to do it the once!
tracker11 said:
Thanks for the oil Change Manual. Unfortunately I don't have a dip stick to check the correct oil level
Can someone send me a Picture with measurments of the dip stick via mail to info@yourfastestlap.com
BR Dennis
problem solved. The guys from radical send me the drawingsCan someone send me a Picture with measurments of the dip stick via mail to info@yourfastestlap.com
BR Dennis
Gc285 said:
talking about hot oil, does anybody use the wolverine heaters on the dry sump reservoir?
Do you mean oil heaters in general or specifically that brand? We had oil heating pads and the kenlowe coolant pre heater. Both slightly effective but not earth shattering. Better than just running the engine to heat it up, but didn't seem to affect the run hours substantially.Bert
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