Rust dust eating paint ?

Rust dust eating paint ?

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Discussion

V8Bart

Original Poster:

788 posts

191 months

Wednesday 5th October 2011
quotequote all
A few years ago some one next door had iron gutters fitted and the iron dust from grinding drifted onto car and with rain rusted into the paint, with it being dark grey it was hard to see but felt like sand paper.

I now have a white car and the same has happened and looks bad close up, I have washed and dried car but can't shift the rusting dust.

Has anyone had this problem, and can anyone please help?

CoolC

4,217 posts

215 months

Wednesday 5th October 2011
quotequote all
Claybar is your friend.

Once you've used it you'll be amazed what contamination is removed from the paint.

I personally like this one http://www.chemicalguysuk.com/Chemical_Guys_Clay_B... but all the online retailers have theirs, which are much of a muchness.

You'll need some lube to go with it (stop sniggering)

V8Bart

Original Poster:

788 posts

191 months

Wednesday 5th October 2011
quotequote all
thanks for the reply.
will give it a go, will stick the bar up the workmans arse after I'm done (without the lube!)

Dave_ST220

10,294 posts

206 months

Wednesday 5th October 2011
quotequote all
+1 Also, this is one reason why new cars have that plastic protective film on, iron filings from rail freight!

Stedman

7,225 posts

193 months

Wednesday 5th October 2011
quotequote all
Tardis, THEN clay bar. Those are your friends. smile

kds keltec

1,365 posts

191 months

Thursday 6th October 2011
quotequote all
another option is iron x , works well when removing rust fall out from industries and close by train tracks .

http://www.shinearama.co.uk/product.php?id=CPX-IRO...

we have used this on a few cars with very bad idustrail fallout and worked a treat , saved hours of clay barring (still needed clay bar but alot less) claying alone unless using many pieces of clay bar could end up with micro scratches all over the paint work as the clay become "full" of iron fillings etc .

kelly

mneame

1,484 posts

212 months

Thursday 6th October 2011
quotequote all
Iron X, then Tardis then Clay.

Iron X will get rid of the iron filings then Tardis for tar spots etc then Clay for anything either of those have missed.

Follow up with a polish and a few layers of wax / sealant and jobs a good un.

V8Bart

Original Poster:

788 posts

191 months

Friday 7th October 2011
quotequote all
Thanks for all the replys guys.
Due to budget I could not get all the products, but paint cleaner and clay did the trick. Amazing stuff.
Before:-


and After:-




V8Bart

Original Poster:

788 posts

191 months

Friday 7th October 2011
quotequote all
BTW, thats a days work and cheating at that starting with a drive through wash wink
I now need a weeks recovery lol. Worth it though.

Now 5......4......3......2.......1.....and rain! lol

mneame

1,484 posts

212 months

Monday 10th October 2011
quotequote all
Nice turn around there. Keep the protection topped up and it'll make it easier to maintain so that you don't have to put as much effort in.

sospan

2,485 posts

223 months

Monday 10th October 2011
quotequote all
I had rust spots on my garage door. Called the supplier who sent 2 men round who polished it with "Silko" or "Silky" - not sure which but used to clean up caravans etc.
It did the job well. garage door came with factory finish in white so unsure about using it on a car!
Effectively mits a very fine abrasive/polish type material
The rust was from filings left on surface from manufacturing which then rusted.