Rusty chassis and waxoyling?
Discussion
Hi I know thus has been mentioned b4 but mainly as a preventative measure
I've just got my beloved back from TVRt and altho much lighter in the wallet I'm a bit worried about the news that the chassis is rusty and that this is potentially a big problem in the next few years, talk of removing the shell...mucho expensive-o
:throws huge pile of money into a pile and chucks in match:
It's not a problem right now but will be in the next few years. Has anyone else found themselves in this position and if so can I prevent the problem getting worse particularly as I dont drive the car daily oct-march anyway.
I suppose I'm wondering whether I ought to get up to speed on waxoyling and whether, in peoples experience thats going to sufficiently arrest the decline?
Oh well you live and learn
I've just got my beloved back from TVRt and altho much lighter in the wallet I'm a bit worried about the news that the chassis is rusty and that this is potentially a big problem in the next few years, talk of removing the shell...mucho expensive-o
:throws huge pile of money into a pile and chucks in match:
It's not a problem right now but will be in the next few years. Has anyone else found themselves in this position and if so can I prevent the problem getting worse particularly as I dont drive the car daily oct-march anyway.
I suppose I'm wondering whether I ought to get up to speed on waxoyling and whether, in peoples experience thats going to sufficiently arrest the decline?
Oh well you live and learn
Just to add my 2pence.
Wire brush/grind/scrape etc off the rust, then
> Get rid of any dust on the the surface after removing rust
> Paint on hammerite Kurust or similar (its a chemical which reacts with the rust and neutralizes it)
> Give it a cost of Hammerite red oxide primer.
> Give it a coat of Hammerite top coat.
> Spray your waxoil over the top.
I followed that formula on my old chimaera and it looked a treat when it was done.
Wire brush/grind/scrape etc off the rust, then
> Get rid of any dust on the the surface after removing rust
> Paint on hammerite Kurust or similar (its a chemical which reacts with the rust and neutralizes it)
> Give it a cost of Hammerite red oxide primer.
> Give it a coat of Hammerite top coat.
> Spray your waxoil over the top.
I followed that formula on my old chimaera and it looked a treat when it was done.
It can be a bit of a mucky time consuming job. Its nice knowing that its done though when you have finished.
A weak point on the Chimaera chassis for rust (apart from the outriggers) is on the main chassis rail where it is close to the side of the square box section fibreglass footwells. Get your hand round the back and make sure that the powdercoating hasnt ruptured.
Good luck with it!
A weak point on the Chimaera chassis for rust (apart from the outriggers) is on the main chassis rail where it is close to the side of the square box section fibreglass footwells. Get your hand round the back and make sure that the powdercoating hasnt ruptured.
Good luck with it!
Alternatively you could take it to C G coachworks in Horam East Sussex. They stripped treated and coated my S3 for £120 a few weeks ago. They do the bodywork repairs for the TVR dealer at Heathfield..Dream machines ... so they obviously know their stuff.
Look up the thread 'rusty outriggers'.
Steve.
Look up the thread 'rusty outriggers'.
Steve.
Hi,
Is that £120 or £1200?
Thanks I'll give them a call and see what they say
Cheers Stephen
Out of interest does anyone have any schematics (probably asking too much wrt a TVR I know) or a drawing of the chassis so I could get an idea of what I'm getting into
>> Edited by prussianblue450 on Saturday 26th June 12:15
Is that £120 or £1200?
Thanks I'll give them a call and see what they say
Cheers Stephen
Out of interest does anyone have any schematics (probably asking too much wrt a TVR I know) or a drawing of the chassis so I could get an idea of what I'm getting into
>> Edited by prussianblue450 on Saturday 26th June 12:15
Definately £120!
They did not do the sections of the chassis below the engine because...
1. Spraying sealant near to the engine and ancilliaries can cause problems.
2. This part of the chassis is less prone to rusting due to the heat of the engine bay area if the car is driven regularly.
Probably best to have a chat with Clive about how thorough a job you want doing and how much you're willing to spend.
Steve.
They did not do the sections of the chassis below the engine because...
1. Spraying sealant near to the engine and ancilliaries can cause problems.
2. This part of the chassis is less prone to rusting due to the heat of the engine bay area if the car is driven regularly.
Probably best to have a chat with Clive about how thorough a job you want doing and how much you're willing to spend.
Steve.
Cheers, didn't mean to doubt you but sometimes it feels like you have to pay a mechanic that much to wave a spanner at the car
Will definitly give them a call as I was told it's fine ass long at it doesn't get any worse so it sounds like a few quid now could be a life saver
>> Edited by prussianblue450 on Monday 28th June 05:08
Will definitly give them a call as I was told it's fine ass long at it doesn't get any worse so it sounds like a few quid now could be a life saver
>> Edited by prussianblue450 on Monday 28th June 05:08
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