Surface rust on floor
Discussion
Just refitting rear seats in the Saab after some bodywork (rear arches) - there is some surface rust (metal is all solid) that I might as well deal with beforehand.
I was thinking a light sand to remove the worst of the loose bits, vac and wipe down with thinners, apply Kurust or similar, and then put down some topcoat to protect (probably rattlecan into a jar and whack down with a brush to prevent overspray on trim.
Obviously it doesnt need to be beautiful, just want to keep it solid.
Does that sound like it would be OK?
Pic:
I was thinking a light sand to remove the worst of the loose bits, vac and wipe down with thinners, apply Kurust or similar, and then put down some topcoat to protect (probably rattlecan into a jar and whack down with a brush to prevent overspray on trim.
Obviously it doesnt need to be beautiful, just want to keep it solid.
Does that sound like it would be OK?
Pic:
paintman said:
Wire brush on an angle grinder & take it back to clean metal or you'll very quickly finish up back where you started.
You don't reckon some rust converter and something to seal it so that air can't get to it will keep it at bay? It's solid metal underneath, it's not coming through from underneath...If I start with the angle grinder and wire brush I know I'm going to make it worse than it already is!
These 'rust killers' usually only work on the surface of the rust.
This from another forum (discussion was about using stuff on a chassis):
"So called "rust converters" (always have a milky appearance) should be avoided like the plague. They contain a latex copolymer which is there to give the converter "body". The problem is that this latex copolymer prevents the conversion agent from really penetrating to the seat of the rust. Try this experiment: get a rusty panel. Treat with rust converter. The rust will turn a satisfying, dark blue colour and you will think it has worked really well. But it has not really worked because if you take some kind of blade and scratch through the converter you will see that there is still rust that has not been converted. If you now coat your "converted" area, the coating will only be as good as the latex copolymer/converted rust matrix - which is not very good at all. Rust will break through again in a year at the very most - sometimes much quicker."
And from personal experience on a RRC floor (inside) the only one that lasted was the angle grinder prepped one. Only real drawbacks to that are the dust & the risk of finding a really thin bit of metal!
This from another forum (discussion was about using stuff on a chassis):
"So called "rust converters" (always have a milky appearance) should be avoided like the plague. They contain a latex copolymer which is there to give the converter "body". The problem is that this latex copolymer prevents the conversion agent from really penetrating to the seat of the rust. Try this experiment: get a rusty panel. Treat with rust converter. The rust will turn a satisfying, dark blue colour and you will think it has worked really well. But it has not really worked because if you take some kind of blade and scratch through the converter you will see that there is still rust that has not been converted. If you now coat your "converted" area, the coating will only be as good as the latex copolymer/converted rust matrix - which is not very good at all. Rust will break through again in a year at the very most - sometimes much quicker."
And from personal experience on a RRC floor (inside) the only one that lasted was the angle grinder prepped one. Only real drawbacks to that are the dust & the risk of finding a really thin bit of metal!
Edited by paintman on Monday 21st November 08:56
I know that sort of 'rust converter' - sticky goo that indeed doesn't really penetrate anything, and only marginally delays the inevitable.
Of course, there's another category which is basically some sort of modified linseed oil (RX5) or tannine (FerTan) - both of which penetrate like h*ll and should be OK on this - although where at all possible I would take a wire brush to the surface and clean it back to bare metal. One of the above then still is very useful for creeping into nooks, crannies and welded flanges (oo er) that the wire brush can't reach...
Of course, there's another category which is basically some sort of modified linseed oil (RX5) or tannine (FerTan) - both of which penetrate like h*ll and should be OK on this - although where at all possible I would take a wire brush to the surface and clean it back to bare metal. One of the above then still is very useful for creeping into nooks, crannies and welded flanges (oo er) that the wire brush can't reach...
waxaholic said:
Have a look here http://www.bilthamber.com
Thank you!Going with this:
http://www.bilthamber.com/pro-introduction.php?cna...
Seems to get an excellent write up - there was a thread on detailing world about it.
Gassing Station | Bodywork & Detailing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff