Adjusting Audi 2.0 tdi 170 injector clearences
Discussion
As abouve im not convinced my injectors have been set right by audi when they were replaced under warrenty a few months ago.
do any one have the clearence sizes for the rocker adjustment screw???
the car has very bad idle and number 1 and 2 injector values are completely out compared to 3 and 4. i have had it on a vcds machine.
its also showing 4.85 degree cam wear ( audi recommends only 0.5 degree wear tolerance ??).
any help please. thanks guys.
do any one have the clearence sizes for the rocker adjustment screw???
the car has very bad idle and number 1 and 2 injector values are completely out compared to 3 and 4. i have had it on a vcds machine.
its also showing 4.85 degree cam wear ( audi recommends only 0.5 degree wear tolerance ??).
any help please. thanks guys.
Setting up is not very technical, unlikely even a large error in this would cause any noticable running/injector issues. Far more likely two or more of the injectors didnt seal correctly when fitted. This has happened to me, just need to remove them check the seals didnt move, and refit. To be cautious could try new seals and must always use new bolts.
If this has been an issue since they fitted injectors, take it back.
IF you really want to check the setting follow bellow.
You set the injecors by rotating the engine until the injectors pump unit is fully compressed by its rocker,(it is a long dwell period, much long than a valve spring would be compressed for example they say to use a dial gauge, but you can do by eye with ease)
Then slacken the lock nut (17mm or 18mm can remember) turning the adjustment screw in (6mm allen) until you feel resistance (the pump unit bottoms out) then back off a half turn (to allow for heat expantion) Hold the adjuster and tighten the lock nut.
If this has been an issue since they fitted injectors, take it back.
IF you really want to check the setting follow bellow.
You set the injecors by rotating the engine until the injectors pump unit is fully compressed by its rocker,(it is a long dwell period, much long than a valve spring would be compressed for example they say to use a dial gauge, but you can do by eye with ease)
Then slacken the lock nut (17mm or 18mm can remember) turning the adjustment screw in (6mm allen) until you feel resistance (the pump unit bottoms out) then back off a half turn (to allow for heat expantion) Hold the adjuster and tighten the lock nut.
hi thanks tame technician for the advice, i work for a merc amg specialist so getting settings for audi is sometimes difficult.
the injectors were done in december last year ( so only 5 months ago). which way around do the seals go if i decided to remove and inspect.
why do you think my cam is showing such signifiant wear??? are you replaceing a lot of these due to premature wear???
the car smoke very bad on cold idle, with an a blue / grey smoke. i have had the dpf deleted and egr deleted and removed for the car so i expect smoke but i have only started noticeing this bad smoke on idle since i did the cambelt last week??? every thing was fully locked up so nothing can be out on the timeing surely???
the injectors were done in december last year ( so only 5 months ago). which way around do the seals go if i decided to remove and inspect.
why do you think my cam is showing such signifiant wear??? are you replaceing a lot of these due to premature wear???
the car smoke very bad on cold idle, with an a blue / grey smoke. i have had the dpf deleted and egr deleted and removed for the car so i expect smoke but i have only started noticeing this bad smoke on idle since i did the cambelt last week??? every thing was fully locked up so nothing can be out on the timeing surely???
If its only been doing it since the cam belt changem then I'm sorry to day its highly likely that its miss timed some how.
We dont do cams at all on the 2.0PD engines so wear is unlikely, I think the value you refering to is do to with cam timing, also and you might find once retimed that value is less.
Did you use the correct locking tools, there are two different type for the crankshaft, not all 2.0TDI's use the same tool. Just as important, line up the marks on the tensioner for the correct tension. To tight will advance and to loose will retard the cam timing quite a bit.
Once the timing is spot on, maybe check the injectors, but I'm sure you would have had the problem before now as that was 5 months ago.
We dont do cams at all on the 2.0PD engines so wear is unlikely, I think the value you refering to is do to with cam timing, also and you might find once retimed that value is less.
Did you use the correct locking tools, there are two different type for the crankshaft, not all 2.0TDI's use the same tool. Just as important, line up the marks on the tensioner for the correct tension. To tight will advance and to loose will retard the cam timing quite a bit.
Once the timing is spot on, maybe check the injectors, but I'm sure you would have had the problem before now as that was 5 months ago.
hi yes i locked the cams and crank with the relevant tools, loosened the 3 x 13mm bolts to allow the cam pullys to move to remove the slack from the belt because as you know these things are like a guitar string.
before refitting the new belt, i turned both cam sprockets as far clockwise as possible to when feeding the new cam belt on it allowed me to get the tension out of the none tensioner side, if that makes sense.
( bare in mind the actual cams are full locked still)
once belt is tensioned i nipped up the 3x 13mm bolts on each pully and then removed my locking pins.
i tuned the engine over by hand 3 times and the cam pullys and mark i left on the crank all lined up correctly. i checked where the tensior arrow was pointing and it was spot on, far as im aware thats job done????
if any thing sounds wrong there please could you mention it. thanks
before refitting the new belt, i turned both cam sprockets as far clockwise as possible to when feeding the new cam belt on it allowed me to get the tension out of the none tensioner side, if that makes sense.
( bare in mind the actual cams are full locked still)
once belt is tensioned i nipped up the 3x 13mm bolts on each pully and then removed my locking pins.
i tuned the engine over by hand 3 times and the cam pullys and mark i left on the crank all lined up correctly. i checked where the tensior arrow was pointing and it was spot on, far as im aware thats job done????
if any thing sounds wrong there please could you mention it. thanks
See how much futher round the timing mark is with the later tool.
Thats what you need to check, your description of the operation is absolutely spot on, but if you started with the wrong tool, then the crank could be in the wrong place.
To idendify which type of crank pulley you have, one is round and one is oval, I think the round ones have a vertical line like that in the picture, and the later oval ones have a triangle marker.
Thats what you need to check, your description of the operation is absolutely spot on, but if you started with the wrong tool, then the crank could be in the wrong place.
To idendify which type of crank pulley you have, one is round and one is oval, I think the round ones have a vertical line like that in the picture, and the later oval ones have a triangle marker.
Edited by Tame Technician on Tuesday 29th May 20:30
we have the b tool, so i marked the crank with tipex on the crank pulley and the side of the bloack and it never moved so i know it cant be out on the bottom.
also if the cam timing was out would it not throw all 4 injectors out rather than just 2, they are all running on the same cam regardless???
the 2 good injectors are running at around 0.23 ( they do fluctuate a little )
the 2 bad ones are showing - 1.59 and -0.89 or around abouts those figures.
im really more edgeing towards something wrong with the injectors.
also i dont know if this is a seperate issue but on idle the car smokes really badly, i have had the dpf deleted and egr deleted and remaped but i know its more than just smoke from removeing the filter.
also if the cam timing was out would it not throw all 4 injectors out rather than just 2, they are all running on the same cam regardless???
the 2 good injectors are running at around 0.23 ( they do fluctuate a little )
the 2 bad ones are showing - 1.59 and -0.89 or around abouts those figures.
im really more edgeing towards something wrong with the injectors.
also i dont know if this is a seperate issue but on idle the car smokes really badly, i have had the dpf deleted and egr deleted and remaped but i know its more than just smoke from removeing the filter.
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