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3Dee

Original Poster:

2,567 posts

91 months

[news] 
Wednesday 30th May 2012 quote quote all
Yep!

After getting a nice optima yellowtop a year ago (maybe a bit more - can't find the invoice - Damn!), and after sterling service starting the engine ocassionally, and caring for it using an optimate conditioner most of the time....

.....on monday I could not get enough juice to started at all.
Put it on charge for a bit, then noticed after 5 mins that the charger amperage needle had suddenly shot up way to the right - full amps!yikes

Fast-start mode the same!

...so looks like it had died!

I am peeved! irked Anyone else got a similar problem with these?

Just hope now, that Optima can find my purchase and deliver on their warranty!

We will see!





spatz

1,636 posts

56 months

[news] 
Wednesday 30th May 2012 quote quote all
i had a pretty new one killed by fully discharging it with a leaking current, got replaced it by them, so if you find the invoice you should be ok.

DHGTR

1,035 posts

113 months

[news] 
Wednesday 30th May 2012 quote quote all
YEESSS

my yellow top died as well.

Just replaced with odyssey extreme 40.

Battery guy said yellow top is not what we should have. That should be used for deep discharge and running ancillaries.

On cars like ours you need big cranking amps and then alternator takes over , so Red top!

Dave

craig7l

837 posts

136 months

[news] 
Wednesday 30th May 2012 quote quote all
ive gone through 2 off varley 40 batteries, i think mainly due to discharging due to high ancillary loading....due to low(ish) Ah.... now found some extra room and replaced with a bosch s5 battery that is rated less CCamps but over twice the capacity Ah as the varley40. Funny thing is it cranks the engine over with a noticable improvement over the 40...? and now if i leave the fan running i wont be dead in 2 minutes...

3Dee

Original Poster:

2,567 posts

91 months

[news] 
Wednesday 30th May 2012 quote quote all
... confused

so a year or so it seemed that everyone was singing the praises of the Optima YellowTop YTR27 (p/n 873176)..

...now some are saying something else???? frownredface

crycrycrycry

ALL I want is a friccin battery that will do the job and last for a reasonable time... banghead

Shhherly there is such a thing out there?

grumpy




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spatz

1,636 posts

56 months

[news] 
Wednesday 30th May 2012 quote quote all
I have no problem with the replacement, cranking hard and good capacity, the first died due my own mistake, no battery likes a complete discharge too 0.
If you keep the optima happy with a trickle charger, it can go 10 years.

Storer

2,028 posts

85 months

[news] 
Wednesday 30th May 2012 quote quote all
I have gone for a Red Top 60 when the old Red Top 40 struggled with my LS7.

The 60 spins the engine easily and should have no problems with all the electrical bits and bobs.

You will need a new battery holder though, and support for the top, as it is quite a bit heavier as well as pricey (£270).


Paul

DHGTR

1,035 posts

113 months

[news] 
Wednesday 30th May 2012 quote quote all
spatz said:
I have no problem with the replacement, cranking hard and good capacity, the first died due my own mistake, no battery likes a complete discharge too 0.
If you keep the optima happy with a trickle charger, it can go 10 years.
I kept mine happy with a conditioner, it lasted 2 1/2 years :-(

Storer

2,028 posts

85 months

[news] 
Wednesday 30th May 2012 quote quote all
I use a conditioner on my Cerbera, but it seems that if you get a power cut it reverts to full charge which cooks the battery!!!!!

Had to get a fresh Red Top for it this spring. Bu**er.



Paul

spatz

1,636 posts

56 months

[news] 
Thursday 31st May 2012 quote quote all
not sure what you are using but you should use CTEK chargers

GTRMikie

644 posts

118 months

[news] 
Thursday 31st May 2012 quote quote all
As I've said before, my Red Top is 12 years old and still going strong. It's connected to an Optimate when the car not being used.

Storer

2,028 posts

85 months

[news] 
Thursday 31st May 2012 quote quote all
spatz said:
not sure what you are using but you should use CTEK chargers
Mine is a CTEK charger.


Paul

738 driver

1,187 posts

63 months

[news] 
Thursday 31st May 2012 quote quote all
This mains interruption / full charge issue is a concern... SO if you have a rural home or super sensitive fusebox (trips with certain lamp failure) then these trickle charger-conditioner units revert to full flat-out charge rate irrespective of battery condition ??

Similar to Paul I'm looking at the 60 but have no desire to invest 400 quid in battery and Ctek to potentially have it cook at the first failure whilst away with work !

Must be a reasonable solution out there .... disconnection perhaps ??

spatz

1,636 posts

56 months

[news] 
Friday 1st June 2012 quote quote all
where do you gather this information that CTEK is cooking the battery. It is a smart charger, once the battery is full it is full it will not overcharge why should it. I guess this is typical forum hearsaying, as mentioned before they do not like a complete discharge other than that I read plenty of reports that they last many years. Better check if your cars have leak currents that have the potential for a full discharge or better install a mains switch that will prevent this.

MarkWebb

778 posts

87 months

[news] 
Friday 1st June 2012 quote quote all
I have CTEK. Many power outages no problem.
738 you need for fusebox sorting out. I am an electrician and that kind of thing does not need to occur. Is it new in the last couple of years?

738 driver

1,187 posts

63 months

[news] 
Friday 1st June 2012 quote quote all
Fusebox about three years old Mark and only trips the RCD when a spotlamp blows.. .. spotlamps are a pain and slowly being replaced with LED or other lamp ... I understand from an electrical guru mate the problem is being only 30 mtrs from the local substation and the type of juice we receive ??

MarkWebb

778 posts

87 months

[news] 
Friday 1st June 2012 quote quote all
738. 3 years hmm. If I had installed 3 years ago I would not have put any lighting on RCD. The rules changed sometime around then though. I would have put in a split board. All plug circuits yes rcd, lighting no. minimum spec for a disboard now is 2 RCDs i.e. only half would go off. Top spec is a separate RCD for each circuit. i.e. you would only loose the circuit with the bulb in. My boards have no rcd for lighting just 6 amp MCBs C type. Anyway as said power cuts should not effect chargers anyway.

Steve_D

8,700 posts

128 months

[news] 
Saturday 2nd June 2012 quote quote all
If a bulb blows in my house it pops the lighting MCB. What am I doing wrong Mark?

Steve

MarkWebb

778 posts

87 months

[news] 
Saturday 2nd June 2012 quote quote all
Steve you need to change the MCB from a B type to a C type. The bulb blowing causes a surge in current. The B type MCB is more sensitive to surges than the C type which although it has the same rating (usually 6 amp) will not trip with the surge as the bulb blows. This will need to come from a wholesaler and probably not be on the shelf. I can get one if you like usually less than a tenner. Just tell me what make. you might get it online.

GTRMikie

644 posts

118 months

[news] 
Saturday 2nd June 2012 quote quote all
spatz said:
where do you gather this information that CTEK is cooking the battery. It is a smart charger, once the battery is full it is full it will not overcharge why should it.
Same applies to the Optimate. I also have a second Optimate connected to the battery of my Ducati. The bike ( a rapidly appreciating "classic") only does about 100 miles a year, but the battery always performs as it should when called upon!

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