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DiseasalDriver
Original Poster
781 posts
16 months
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Dear fellow E46 owners,
Couple of small and minor irritating issues on my new E46. The engine is a peach, I'm averaging 25mpg with 100% town driving so far, all the electrics etc seem to be working exactly as they should with a couple of small exceptions...
- Passenger side window drop;
When I open the passenger side door, the window doesn't drop the required few mm to allow the window to go back into the seal when closed. This means when closing the door I need to push the glass slightly forward so it slips under. Not a huge issue but slight concerns that I might forget to tell a passenger resulting in damage.
Having read up on this issue it would appear that there is a method to reset the relay that I will look at afterwards. The other thing I will be looking at is whether the door open symbol illuminates on the dashboard when the door is open and whether the interior light comes on.
Some people report that it doesn't which tells me that the car doesn't know the door is open which makes sense as to why it won't drop. Also, the window won't auto up and down with one touch, as if the door was open.
Anyone had this problem and how did they sort it?
- Gear stick spring
This happens especially when cold. The gear stick doesn't always spring back to centre when you let go of it, it sometimes sticks over towards the driver i.e. below 5th. I'm told this is a spring issue and a cheap fix, with the exception of the gearbox having to come out which is labour intensive. Not a huge problem as my brother works for a BMW indy, but even so, the less money spent the better and my brother is an apprentice so there are labour costs for his boss to look at it, albeit at a reduced rate.
Any thoughts?
- Window seal
Sometimes when you lower the rear windows, the seal pops off, i.e. when you put the roof down. I was told this was a case of needing new seals but a decent glue that will expand/contract will do the job in making sure it works fine?
Other than this, I'm more than happy with my purchase, touch wood. It's low mileage for it's age and the engine was checked over by my brothers work and declared in fantastic condition with brakes, suspension etc having been done recently, bodywork spotless etc and electrics fine.
Somehow we missed the window drop issue though and I was told the spring in the gear box was an easy fix. I just hope he's right.
Are there any other common issues that owners seem to have come up against that perhaps some preventative maintenance rather than reactive fixing would help with?
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DiseasalDriver
Original Poster
781 posts
16 months
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Just as a follow up on the door issue. I went out to check just now and the interior light doesn't come on when you open the door, and the illumination on the dashboard doesn't show that the door is open.
In short, the car doesn't know that the door is open so no wonder it's not dropping the window.
Ideas?
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dooosuk
328 posts
94 months
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I wouldn't bother fixing the gear stick spring. There's been a few threads on here of late about it and they all seemed to conclude that's it's not really a problem and won't hurt anything if left as is.
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DiseasalDriver
Original Poster
781 posts
16 months
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dooosuk said: I wouldn't bother fixing the gear stick spring. There's been a few threads on here of late about it and they all seemed to conclude that's it's not really a problem and won't hurt anything if left as is. Yeah I tend to agree and it's only something I'd look at if it were a cheap fix. Certainly not causing me any concern.
The only other thing noticed is the speed that it takes to warm up? It can take a long time for the needle to reach the centre and earlier when I was cruising on the motorway at 65mph the temperature gauge starting dropping again? Thermostat issue? Edit: If it is a thermostat issue then what negative effects should I expect other than the needle not sitting in the middle?
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stevesuk
299 posts
51 months
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DiseasalDriver said: Yeah I tend to agree and it's only something I'd look at if it were a cheap fix. Certainly not causing me any concern.
The only other thing noticed is the speed that it takes to warm up? It can take a long time for the needle to reach the centre and earlier when I was cruising on the motorway at 65mph the temperature gauge starting dropping again? Thermostat issue?
Edit: If it is a thermostat issue then what negative effects should I expect other than the needle not sitting in the middle?The gear shift fix is cheap in terms of parts, but requires the gearbox to come out the car :-) So I'd leave it for now. Mine does it when cold, but it's OK after the car has warmed up. Regarding the temperature gauge. Mine gets up to the midway point within a few miles and stays there. It has a large dead-spot when the gauge is reading in the middle (which basically means "normal", rather than telling you a precise temperature). So if, once the car is warmed up, it goes to the left or right of "normal", then something is most likely wrong. Probably a stuck thermostat, which I think is very common. What's your MPG like on a run? I believe there is a way of bringing up the current coolant temperature somehow on the OBC screen (hidden menu). So you could probably use that to get a precise reading. edit: sounds like this guy has/had the same problem with the door ajar sensor? http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=8712... - Maybe there's a mechanical switch as part of the lock assembly that has become stuck?
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dr_gn
6,911 posts
53 months
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DiseasalDriver said: Dear fellow E46 owners,
Are there any other common issues that owners seem to have come up against that perhaps some preventative maintenance rather than reactive fixing would help with? Definitely Replace the radiator, water pump, thermostat and belts if not already been done. Check you boot floor for cracks where your subframe mounts. Lots of questions on this, could do with an E46 FAQ sticky I reckon!
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Tefal
17 posts
11 months
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The door issue will be a problem with the door lock mechanism, will require a new door lock if you want it fixed.  Not cheap.
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PetrolDriver
Original Poster
781 posts
16 months
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Tefal said: The door issue will be a problem with the door lock mechanism, will require a new door lock if you want it fixed.  Not cheap. Not what I wanted to hear!!! The door still opens/locks/unlocks as it should. It's not a huge issue and I could live with it depending on the cost of fixing. Possible fix from a scrappy?
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PetrolDriver
Original Poster
781 posts
16 months
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dr_gn said: Definitely Replace the radiator, water pump, thermostat and belts if not already been done.
Check you boot floor for cracks where your subframe mounts.
Lots of questions on this, could do with an E46 FAQ sticky I reckon! What sort of cost am I looking at for that little lot? Also, I agree re: FAQ. I rarely go on any other forum, feels weird signing up to other forums as none of them seem as good and easy to navigate as this one!
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dingg
630 posts
88 months
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PetrolDriver said: Not what I wanted to hear!!! The door still opens/locks/unlocks as it should. It's not a huge issue and I could live with it depending on the cost of fixing. Possible fix from a scrappy? do not get one from a scrappy - chances are it will not last too long, just bought a new assembly from c3bmw for 80 quid or so , apparently its quite common for these to fail..if this doesn't sort my issues its the module that contains the relays behind the glove box, another common fault, these can be repaired for 55 quid on ebay or DIY if you're really good with soldering iron, price new about 400 and they have to be synced to your car.
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dooosuk
328 posts
94 months
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DiseasalDriver said: The only other thing noticed is the speed that it takes to warm up? It can take a long time for the needle to reach the centre and earlier when I was cruising on the motorway at 65mph the temperature gauge starting dropping again? Thermostat issue?
Edit: If it is a thermostat issue then what negative effects should I expect other than the needle not sitting in the middle? The 330 lump can take a while to get upto temperature. Mine can take 30mins to get upto temperature (middle, 12 o'clock) in the mornings when driving to work. Also, mine sits around 1/3 on the motorway (about 60 deg C according to the OBD2). I thought that this was low but the manual says it's within normal operating temperatures and the needle never gets above the middle (85-90 deg C) when just left ticking over. Fan kicks in as expected etc. so I've not worried about it too much.
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dr_gn
6,911 posts
53 months
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PetrolDriver said: dr_gn said: Definitely Replace the radiator, water pump, thermostat and belts if not already been done.
Check you boot floor for cracks where your subframe mounts.
Lots of questions on this, could do with an E46 FAQ sticky I reckon! What sort of cost am I looking at for that little lot? Also, I agree re: FAQ. I rarely go on any other forum, feels weird signing up to other forums as none of them seem as good and easy to navigate as this one! I'll check when I get home. Something like £250 - £350 depending on whose parts you use (if you DIY). Mine all looked great until I removed them: it then became clear how bad everything was, particularly the radiator. BTW mines a 330i, done 70k miles. It warms up fully (at least water does) within 10 minutes and the gauge sits bang in the middle of the gauge. Course if you put the heater on after starting in cold conditions it'll take way longer. I try to avoid doing this. Try this forum for technical help - they've been great: http://www.e46zone.com/forum/forum/14-technical-he...
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ghibbett
773 posts
54 months
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dooosuk said: The 330 lump can take a while to get upto temperature.
Mine can take 30mins to get upto temperature (middle, 12 o'clock) in the mornings when driving to work.
Also, mine sits around 1/3 on the motorway (about 60 deg C according to the OBD2). I thought that this was low but the manual says it's within normal operating temperatures and the needle never gets above the middle (85-90 deg C) when just left ticking over. Fan kicks in as expected etc. so I've not worried about it too much. Mine is certainly not the same as this. It will be up to temperature (middle of gauge) within 3-4 minutes (never going above 3k rpm) and stay there for the rest of the drive.
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Jobbo
7,227 posts
133 months
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dooosuk said: The 330 lump can take a while to get upto temperature.
Mine can take 30mins to get upto temperature (middle, 12 o'clock) in the mornings when driving to work.
Also, mine sits around 1/3 on the motorway (about 60 deg C according to the OBD2). I thought that this was low but the manual says it's within normal operating temperatures and the needle never gets above the middle (85-90 deg C) when just left ticking over. Fan kicks in as expected etc. so I've not worried about it too much. Your thermostat is broken. Mine took ages to get up to temperature when I bought it, so I had the thermostat replaced straight away and it got up towards the middle of the temperature gauge within 5 mins/couple of miles. Fuel economy improved too, because it obviously enriches the mixture when cold; or when it thinks it's cold.
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dooosuk
328 posts
94 months
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ghibbett said: dooosuk said: The 330 lump can take a while to get upto temperature.
Mine can take 30mins to get upto temperature (middle, 12 o'clock) in the mornings when driving to work.
Also, mine sits around 1/3 on the motorway (about 60 deg C according to the OBD2). I thought that this was low but the manual says it's within normal operating temperatures and the needle never gets above the middle (85-90 deg C) when just left ticking over. Fan kicks in as expected etc. so I've not worried about it too much. Mine is certainly not the same as this. It will be up to temperature (middle of gauge) within 3-4 minutes (never going above 3k rpm) and stay there for the rest of the drive. Mmmm, maybe I should look again then. Oil looks an ok colour though, MPG is about 33mpg on a motorway run at 75mph-80mph. What else should I be checking? I don't have my heater above 17degC so that shouldn't be cooling anything. I'm loathe to replace the stat just for the sake of it...any other tests I can be doing?
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PetrolDriver
Original Poster
781 posts
16 months
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dooosuk said: Mmmm, maybe I should look again then. Oil looks an ok colour though, MPG is about 33mpg on a motorway run at 75mph-80mph. What else should I be checking? I don't have my heater above 17degC so that shouldn't be cooling anything. I'm loathe to replace the stat just for the sake of it...any other tests I can be doing? Yeah I thought from you description that the thermostat is stuck open, they're only about £30 and there are DIY replacement instructions knocking around the net. My main concern is fuel economy, it doesn't seem quite right and this could well be the reason.
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PetrolDriver
Original Poster
781 posts
16 months
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As an aside, I'm told all 330Ci Convertibles had the HK stereo? Not sure mine has! It certainly doesn't appear to have the sub between the rear seats.
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dr_gn
6,911 posts
53 months
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dooosuk said: ghibbett said: dooosuk said: The 330 lump can take a while to get upto temperature.
Mine can take 30mins to get upto temperature (middle, 12 o'clock) in the mornings when driving to work.
Also, mine sits around 1/3 on the motorway (about 60 deg C according to the OBD2). I thought that this was low but the manual says it's within normal operating temperatures and the needle never gets above the middle (85-90 deg C) when just left ticking over. Fan kicks in as expected etc. so I've not worried about it too much. Mine is certainly not the same as this. It will be up to temperature (middle of gauge) within 3-4 minutes (never going above 3k rpm) and stay there for the rest of the drive. Mmmm, maybe I should look again then. Oil looks an ok colour though, MPG is about 33mpg on a motorway run at 75mph-80mph. What else should I be checking? I don't have my heater above 17degC so that shouldn't be cooling anything. I'm loathe to replace the stat just for the sake of it...any other tests I can be doing? Honestly - you're potentially making a big mistake by not replacing your cooling system (I did forget to mention the thermostat in my previous post). It's common advice - E46's have a weak cooling system and if it fails catastrophically on the motorway your engine is toast - you won't have time to cut the engine. For the sake of a few £100, do it. BTW don't be fooled by looking through the grille to see what the radiator looks like - you're just looking at the A/C radiator, not the engine radiator. Likewise the water pump - it's a plastic impeller, and if you have radial play in the bearings (mine did) the impeller can scrape on its housing and break...again, engine toast. On a motorway run (250 miles round trip for example) I get approx. 36 mpg average at 70 according to the computer.
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PetrolDriver
Original Poster
781 posts
16 months
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Quite important I get mine sorted then!!!
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dooosuk
328 posts
94 months
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New stat it is then.
£25 from BMPartsUK (via Ebay...good feedback but no reviews online) £37 from Carparts4less £40 from C3 BMW £50 from GSF/Eurocarparts
All a much of a muchness or is there somewhere I've missed?
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