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nick heppinstall

Original Poster:

3,492 posts

166 months

[news] 
Monday 18th June 2012 quote quote all
Purchased an Airfix F5 on eBay for £2.95 ! Done a bit of reading on it and it sounds like it's a pig to build lol !

So a few questions .....

1) It wwill be silver and I intend to use Acrylic paint. Whats it like to brush? Can you buy it in aerosols ? Still have ny old Compressor but no Airbrush.

2) What are you using to fill nowdays ?

3) I used to use masking take and pink stuff called maskol to mask. What do you use now ?

4) What about adhesive ? Used to use basic model glue, superglue and clear glue that you could brush on.

6) Panel lines. Used a Rotring Pen. What methods now ?

Actually looking forward to getting my hands on it !

Eric Mc

77,156 posts

151 months

[news] 
Monday 18th June 2012 quote quote all
Not a good choice of kit - although it was my first ever kit back in 1966.

Acrylics can be tricky to brush paint - especially over larger surface areas.

For a metal finish, without the use of an airbrush, I'd go for an aerosol spray of some sort - such as Halfords Aluminium. I'd also use Halfords grey Primer as an undercoat.

Maskol is still available and still has its uses - it still stinks too - which is reassuring.
The best masking tape around is Tamiya Tape.

Glues are still as you describe. I rarely use tube polystyrene cement anymore. I prefer the liquid variety in a platic bottle and a metal tube applicator - as sold by both Revell and Humbrol

For transparancies I use a very strong white glue (PVA) called Pacer.

Edited by Eric Mc on Monday 18th June 19:41

SlipStream77

1,892 posts

77 months

[news] 
Monday 18th June 2012 quote quote all
In my experience you can get away with brush painting small parts like the UC in silver, but anything larger will show brushmarks. Even with an airbrush it's not easy as any dust or surface imperfections show up really well.

I use Revell Plasto for most filling and sculpting.
http://www.emodels.co.uk/plastic-kits/revell-25ml-...

For very thin gaps I also use Vallejo plastic putty.
http://www.emodels.co.uk/plastic-kits/vallejo-17ml...

Tamiya tape is widely regarded as the best for masking models as it is 'low tack' and therefore less likely to take paint with it when removed. I find silver acrylic paint tends to adhere particularly badly so try to reduce the 'tack' a bit more before using it. You can do this by sticking to to cloth material and removing it several times.
Maskol is still around, I use the Vallejo equivalent but it does the same thing.

For glue I use a basic poly cement from a tube, applied with a toothpick when necessary. I haven't had to use much cyano in the past but it's useful to have in the kit. For canopies I use PVA, it dries clear and is easily removable. Beware that it is water soluable though so wet-sanding after fitting the canopy is not a good idea.

How you deal with panel lines depends on what they are like on the model. If they are recessed and not too big, I use a wash like these.

http://www.florymodels.co.uk/washes/

It's painted onto the model after varnishing and it's removed using wet tissue paper.

If the panel lines are raised, I usually sand them off and I might reapply some using a very fine lead pencil. You can also buy a tool to scribe your own panel lines.

http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/74091scribe...

I'm yet to find a thin pen that creates lines that don't have a blue shine to them when viewed from certain angles.



nick heppinstall

Original Poster:

3,492 posts

166 months

[news] 
Monday 18th June 2012 quote quote all
Thanks for the info. Let you know how I go on !

ParanoidAndroid

1,102 posts

169 months

[news] 
Tuesday 19th June 2012 quote quote all
SlipStream77 said:
How you deal with panel lines depends on what they are like on the model. If they are recessed and not too big, I use a wash like these.

http://www.florymodels.co.uk/washes/
That Florymodels site has some really good info and how-to videos. Looks like you have to subscribe to see all of it but the free stuff is interesting. Thanks for the link.
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nick heppinstall

Original Poster:

3,492 posts

166 months

[news] 
Saturday 21st July 2012 quote quote all
Ok an update ! Well not really as i've not started the kit yet. I have managed to moved all the crap in the gararge however to let me get to my old bitsa box. Im surprised that after 20 years ive managed to salvage around 80 asorted Humbrol Enamels and a dozen or so Tamaya Acrylics.

It's a start ! Now i need a few tools and i'm ready !


dr_gn

8,849 posts

70 months

[news] 
Saturday 21st July 2012 quote quote all
nick heppinstall said:
Ok an update ! Well not really as i've not started the kit yet. I have managed to moved all the crap in the gararge however to let me get to my old bitsa box. Im surprised that after 20 years ive managed to salvage around 80 asorted Humbrol Enamels and a dozen or so Tamaya Acrylics.

It's a start ! Now i need a few tools and i'm ready !
Dump the paint, it'll be knackered.

nick heppinstall

Original Poster:

3,492 posts

166 months

[news] 
Saturday 21st July 2012 quote quote all
dr_gn said:
Dump the paint, it'll be knackered.
Yeah probably ! I'll keep it for the time though because it makes it look like I'm not starting from scratch !!!

Eric Mc

77,156 posts

151 months

[news] 
Saturday 21st July 2012 quote quote all
Humbrol paint of that era had surprising longevity. The acrylics will be useless. I'd still go out and buy a fresh batch of acrylics if I were you - and a cheap Chinese air brush.

nick heppinstall

Original Poster:

3,492 posts

166 months

[news] 
Saturday 21st July 2012 quote quote all
Eric Mc said:
Humbrol paint of that era had surprising longevity. The acrylics will be useless. I'd still go out and buy a fresh batch of acrylics if I were you - and a cheap Chinese air brush.
Any suggestions for the Airbrush Eric. Loads of cheap ones on eBay but are any of them worth buying ?

dr_gn

8,849 posts

70 months

[news] 
Saturday 21st July 2012 quote quote all
This was a model built after a 20 year gap:

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showt...

My pal's airbrush used on the above is an Harder & Steenbeck Evolution, bought as a package from little cars:

http://www.little-cars.co.uk/airbrushes.pdf

If you're going for an airbrush, get a half decent one and be done with it. If you're using acrylics you'll definitely need one.

Red Firecracker

4,720 posts

113 months

[news] 
Saturday 21st July 2012 quote quote all
I use the Chinese copies quite a lot, mainly as I'm quite hard on them. I have some brushes that I use for 'best' or the more arty farty stuff I do and three Chinese sprayguns;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MINI-SPRAYGUN-STYLE-SIDE...

such as that which I use for the majority of the day to day stuff, one for clear, one for solid colours and one for metallics.

I use the people linked above, Everything Airbrush, quite a lot, they have a normal website and an eBay shop;

http://www.everythingairbrush.com/

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/everythingairbrush

Now, nobody is going to say they are the utmost in airbrush technology or are going to give you super fine pinstripe lines, but I have found that with a little bit of care and attention paid to cleaning and maintenance, they are perfectly fine for the majority of modelling jobs. They are certainly a good way into airbrushing for little expense, and if buying a package the compressor, water filter and air line will still be completely usable if you upgrade to a more expensive brush.

Your main choice is single or double action. For me, having got used to a double action brush, I tend to lean towards them (accepting that the mini spray guns that I use are essentially single action).

nick heppinstall

Original Poster:

3,492 posts

166 months

[news] 
Saturday 21st July 2012 quote quote all
dr_gn said:
This was a model built after a 20 year gap:

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showt...

My pal's airbrush used on the above is an Harder & Steenbeck Evolution, bought as a package from little cars:

http://www.little-cars.co.uk/airbrushes.pdf

If you're going for an airbrush, get a half decent one and be done with it. If you're using acrylics you'll definitely need one.
Well if my F5 looks quarter as good as that Spit I will be happy !

nick heppinstall

Original Poster:

3,492 posts

166 months

[news] 
Saturday 21st July 2012 quote quote all
More great info many thanks !

dr_gn

8,849 posts

70 months

[news] 
Saturday 21st July 2012 quote quote all
nick heppinstall said:
dr_gn said:
This was a model built after a 20 year gap:

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showt...

My pal's airbrush used on the above is an Harder & Steenbeck Evolution, bought as a package from little cars:

http://www.little-cars.co.uk/airbrushes.pdf

If you're going for an airbrush, get a half decent one and be done with it. If you're using acrylics you'll definitely need one.
Well if my F5 looks quarter as good as that Spit I will be happy !
It's not difficult, but having decent equipment makes things easier.

TBH the F-5 is never going to be a great kit to get started in modelling again. If you want to stay with Airfix, why not spend £4.99 or whatever it is and buy one of their latest kits? If you're not bothered about brand, then the 1:72 Academy range is excellent and pretty much the same price.

If you're not sure about how much modelling you'll be doing in future (and if you're on a budget) then I'd go for enamel paints which you can apply by brush rather than an airbrush (+ compressor+respirator+cleaner etc.) and take it from there. If you catch the bug then go for a decent airbrush and try acrylics - they dry quickly and aren't as messy to clean up since they are water soluble.

perdu

3,957 posts

85 months

[news] 
Saturday 21st July 2012 quote quote all
I'd be VERY surprised if much of your old Humbrol paint ISN'T useable

If the lids were well pushed home last time you used the stuff it will probably be OK

The Typhoon I made (and showed here)last year was entirely painted with 30/35 year old Humbrol Authentics paint (Except for the sky type S tail band for which I used thirty year old Tamiya XF-21 acrylic paint)

I hate spending money if I don't have to eek

I rather like the old F5, but it is just a bit elderly looking these days smile

Have fun

"That shall be the whole of the law"

dr_gn

8,849 posts

70 months

[news] 
Saturday 21st July 2012 quote quote all
perdu said:
I'd be VERY surprised if much of your old Humbrol paint ISN'T useable

If the lids were well pushed home last time you used the stuff it will probably be OK

The Typhoon I made (and showed here)last year was entirely painted with 30/35 year old Humbrol Authentics paint (Except for the sky type S tail band for which I used thirty year old Tamiya XF-21 acrylic paint)

I hate spending money if I don't have to eek

I rather like the old F5, but it is just a bit elderly looking these days smile

Have fun

"That shall be the whole of the law"
Some old enamels I tried to use wouldn't fully dry - even after days. Some seemed OK but in the end I just bought new - I'm not prepared to risk it for the sake of a few quid.

perdu

3,957 posts

85 months

[news] 
Sunday 22nd July 2012 quote quote all
dr_gn said:
Some old enamels I tried to use wouldn't fully dry - even after days. Some seemed OK but in the end I just bought new - I'm not prepared to risk it for the sake of a few quid.
smile

I HAVE had some of those too, but never with Humbrol

Gloy YUK some of those were unhappy drying even when new

But I take your point, the OP should really test before painting a model he's spent time and passion on smile

Eric Mc

77,156 posts

151 months

[news] 
Sunday 22nd July 2012 quote quote all
Gloy - that's a name from the past.
Anyone ever use Pactra?

Red Firecracker

4,720 posts

113 months

[news] 
Sunday 22nd July 2012 quote quote all
Eric Mc said:
Gloy - that's a name from the past.
Anyone ever use Pactra?
Pactra is still available. I use for some of the more whacky colours.
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