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BioBa

Original Poster:

295 posts

38 months

[news] 
Wednesday 10th October 2012 quote quote all
After my first engine removal I have put together this first draft. I have used some of the information from previous threads. Please feel free to add any additional information I might have missed and I will include it in the final version:


a) Raise car, remove real wheels and place rear section on axle stands high enough to be able to get underneath.
b) Remove rear diffuser: 2 x ½” bolts at the rear and 2 allen/hex key bolts holding the diffuser in the middle part. Diffuser will drop and it is advised to have something cushioning the drop onto the floor.
c) Drain oil by opening/removing all oil lines. You may leave the oil lines in place depending on what you plan to do with the engine.
d) Disconnect coolant hoses from engine including the small overflow hose
e) Remove entire exhaust system including exhaust headers
f) Remove Carbon fiber air box by cutting the two zip ties, loosening the four hose clamps holding it to the intake injector manifold and unplugging the electrical air temperature sensor plug.
g) Disconnect the throttle cable at the injectors by releasing the tension on the cable and looping the cable around its guide to slide the cable end nipple out of its seat. Disconnect the three electrical plugs connecting the injectors to the engine. Remove the injector manifold by loosening the four hose clamps. Keep all remaining wires connected and place the entire assembly in the drivers section behind the fire wall.
h) Right side engine compartment: Disconnect wires to oil pressure sensor, oil temperature sensor and oil light sensor. Disconnect small oil line to oil pressure sensor. Disconnect cables to starter motor.
i) Central engine compartment: Disconnect wire to water temperature sensor
j) Left side engine compartment: Disconnect hydraulic clutch line and attach/tape line above reservoir level to avoid draining fluid. Unplug the two remaining electrical plugs.
k) Loosen the screws attaching the reverse cable to the engine cradle. Later on you will remove the engine with the cradle attached.
l) Disconnect the shift assembly and remove the small black shift arm. It will slide away from the shaft by removing the pinch bolt.
m) Undo the two bolts on each side of the upper engine mounts. Depending on the tolerance of the frame vs. the chassis you might have additional shims at the upper engine mounts, check for these before removing the bolts and remember how many shims/washers where used. The engine mounts will move out of the way but I prefer to remove the mounts completely by undoing the single bolt holding it to the frame (you will need to remove the aluminum cooling water overflow container).
n) Support bottom of engine with a jack (or engine hoist). Keep the top bolt connecting the engine to the engine cradle tight. Undo the bottom bolt, take out the spacer, and put the bolt back.
Undo the top bolt, take out the spacer, and put the bolt back.
You can now slide the engine to the right side. This will disengage the output shaft from the diff unit (watch out for the 8 white drive pins falling out). Take out the bolts holding the engine in place and lift the engine with the engine cradle attached out.
The pins usually break on the lug that locates into the drive. The lugs are only used to hold the pins in place during assembly. You can stick them in with grease if the lug is broken off
o) Fitting is the exact reverse.


Edited by BioBa on Sunday 10th November 13:15

BioBa

Original Poster:

295 posts

38 months

[news] 
Thursday 25th October 2012 quote quote all
When dropping the engine back in I noticed:
a) When putting the engine back in make sure the shift arm is installed on to the gear shift shaft as it is nearly impossible to install it once the engine is in its final place.
b) When using an engine hoist it will make it much easier to remove or install the engine if it is supported in a way so it does not lean forward (or backward). Ideally the engine should be suspended in mid air exactly how it would sit in the car (level with the ground). To achieve this you will need more than just one strap looping around the base.

Myd

147 posts

108 months

[news] 
Thursday 25th October 2012 quote quote all
.....but does it still fire up....hehe

BioBa

Original Poster:

295 posts

38 months

[news] 
Thursday 25th October 2012 quote quote all
Myd said:
.....but does it still fire up....hehe
I'm not there yet as I am repairing small little things I come across while reinstalling. Some electrical connectors were in very bad shape.
But anyway I believe in positive thought so I will ignore the little 'hehe' and have faith in my divine mechanical abilities. The power of self-delusion is a wonderful thing!

RWDKurt

136 posts

131 months

[news] 
Saturday 9th November 2013 quote quote all
Very useful OP.

In the process of engine removal myself. 2 questions spring to mind:

1. Can the engine be removed with the exhaust manifold still in place?

2. It looks to me as though I need to remove the Quaife final drive unit in order free the gearbox output, thus allowing the powertrain to come up vertically. The engine mounts don't seem to allow for lateral movement. Am I missing something?

Thanks in advance
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BioBa

Original Poster:

295 posts

38 months

[news] 
Sunday 10th November 2013 quote quote all
RWDKurt said:
Very useful OP.

In the process of engine removal myself. 2 questions spring to mind:

1. Can the engine be removed with the exhaust manifold still in place?

2. It looks to me as though I need to remove the Quaife final drive unit in order free the gearbox output, thus allowing the powertrain to come up vertically. The engine mounts don't seem to allow for lateral movement. Am I missing something?

Thanks in advance
1. Maybe but I doubt it. To remove the exhaust manifold takes 5 min. Two Allan head screws per exhaust. Very easy job.
2. No you do not need to remove the Quaife drive. You did not read step n.:

n) Support bottom of engine with a jack (or engine hoist). Keep the top bolt connecting the engine to the engine cradle tight. Undo the bottom bolt, take out the spacer, and put the bolt back. Undo the top bolt, take out the spacer, and put the bolt back.You can now slide the engine to the right side. This will disengage the output shaft from the diff unit (watch out for the 8 white drive pins falling out). Take out the bolts and lift the engine out.The pins usually break on the lug that locates into the drive. The lugs are only used to hold the pins in place during assembly. You can stick them in with grease if the lug is broken off


Obviously once the engine has disengaged from the Quaife drive you then can take the bolts out and lift the engine with the cradle attached. Do not forget to disconnect the reverse cable from the engine cradle before lifting the engine out. Any problems let me know.
Cheers
Babak

Edited by BioBa on Sunday 10th November 13:19

RWDKurt

136 posts

131 months

[news] 
Sunday 10th November 2013 quote quote all
Thanks again Babak. I had read 'n', but not understood it fully. I was confused by the description of 'top mount', which I took to mean the 2 mounts off either end of the cylinder head. Having read (and looked) more closely, I can see the 2 mounts you describe to the rear of the unit, c/w spacers.

I'll let you know how it goes..


BioBa

Original Poster:

295 posts

38 months

[news] 
Tuesday 12th November 2013 quote quote all
Good Luck! Take your time. When lifting the engine out make sure you have a second strap around the front of the engine as it likes to lean forward when just supported from one strap around the bottom.

RWDKurt

136 posts

131 months

[news] 
Tuesday 12th November 2013 quote quote all
Thanks Babak...

....I finished the job this afternoon. I can confirm that then engine will come out with exhaust manifold still in place, and (in my case) turbo. It's slightly awkward on my car because of the external wastegate, as the engine needs to be turned by about 30 degrees anticlockwise once it's free of the mounts in order to clear the chassis. My manifold is harder to remove than most, so maybe not worth the effort on a standard SR3. Stick to Babak's instructions!

If anyone else attempts this job and tries to do it without removing the LHR wheel - don't! The bottom bolt that supports the engine cradle is very long and you won't get it out otherwise.


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