Anti-rattle clips for the rear callipers?
Discussion
longbow said:
Does anyone have these fitted, or know where to get them? I managed to source a set for the front, but the rears are rattling and are quite annoying now.................
This common and been discussed many times, best option is to silicone the pads to the piston to stop the pads jumping up and down as the holes in the caliper are too big for the split pins
pmessling said:
I've been looking at fitting the springs. Mine has never had them but the are silly expensive for what they are. As are the split pins. Found a few alternatives for the springs but have yet to buy them.
I think these springs worked out at about £1.70 each if I remember correctly.One observation: After cleaning the handbrake mechanism and installing new pads (no springs, no glue) I had a pretty bad systematic rattle at low speeds. I checked the run-out of the rear discs, and I had 10/100 mm on one side, 25/100 mm on the other. After cleaning the mating surfaces a bit and some trial repositioning of the discs, I ended up with around 5/100 mm on each side. There is now no rattling, the only sound you can hear is a slight click on inital brake application.
Making sure the discs run true is also a very good idea for a number of other reasons: http://www.rdabrakes.com.au/page/TB01.aspx
Making sure the discs run true is also a very good idea for a number of other reasons: http://www.rdabrakes.com.au/page/TB01.aspx
Edited by egilkv on Thursday 28th July 09:32
Great link thanks.
If you could post a pic showing how you checked run out, as obviously the wheel has to be fitted to do so, that would be interesting. I've never attempted to do so, but I do clean the hubs before refitting discs, new or used. I also clean the mating surface of the wheels as well.
I've only once had vibration issues with the Cerb, and this was cured as soon as I removed the new discs and replaced them with used. They must have had a manufacturing fault, as the vibration was constant, not just under braking, and occurred from new.
Also, the anti squeal clips for the rears are a massive improvement on the coil springs.
If you could post a pic showing how you checked run out, as obviously the wheel has to be fitted to do so, that would be interesting. I've never attempted to do so, but I do clean the hubs before refitting discs, new or used. I also clean the mating surface of the wheels as well.
I've only once had vibration issues with the Cerb, and this was cured as soon as I removed the new discs and replaced them with used. They must have had a manufacturing fault, as the vibration was constant, not just under braking, and occurred from new.
Also, the anti squeal clips for the rears are a massive improvement on the coil springs.
...but a badly tightened wheel might... as also the nuts holding the disc against the hub in order to measure the run-out should be torqued correctly too.
Always amazes me how people think they can tighten wheel nuts/bolts 'by feel'. Pound to a penny they will be massively OVER tight, and not within 15% of each other.
Incidently, I very much doubt that the static balance of a new set of discs would cause the dynamic vibration mentioned by ukkid above; they would have to be impossibly bad to cause that, like a quarter segment missing!. More likely that the wheel was prevented from sitting true for some reason, so that the (by far greater mass of the) wheel was causing the imbalance and thence vibration.
Always amazes me how people think they can tighten wheel nuts/bolts 'by feel'. Pound to a penny they will be massively OVER tight, and not within 15% of each other.
Incidently, I very much doubt that the static balance of a new set of discs would cause the dynamic vibration mentioned by ukkid above; they would have to be impossibly bad to cause that, like a quarter segment missing!. More likely that the wheel was prevented from sitting true for some reason, so that the (by far greater mass of the) wheel was causing the imbalance and thence vibration.
Twinkam said:
Always amazes me how people think they can tighten wheel nuts/bolts 'by feel'. Pound to a penny they will be massively OVER tight, and not within 15% of each other.
I intentionally over tighten my Cerb's wheel nuts, because I can't get my head round the official torque figure.
Twinkam said:
Incidently, I very much doubt that the static balance of a new set of discs would cause the dynamic vibration mentioned by ukkid above; they would have to be impossibly bad to cause that, like a quarter segment missing!. More likely that the wheel was prevented from sitting true for some reason, so that the (by far greater mass of the) wheel was causing the imbalance and thence vibration.
I couldn't believe it either, which is why it took two trips to the Ring before I ditched them. Many thanks to RobScim for the used discs that saved me.Having tried a few things I Used a set of these proper rattle springs from Dom at Power, job jobbed... http://www.powersperformance.co.uk/store/slug/anti...
But it really was nothing.Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff