My Bugeye wagon wrx 'shed'
Discussion
As in readers rides, here is my new winter (and track) toy.
It's a stock wrx, with fssh, 125k and recently had a cambelt.
The bodywork needs tlc, but it drives very tight.
I've a few questions to ask as this is my first Subaru:
She pulls well, but has a very slight hesitation through the rev range.
The air filter will need replacing, but is the maf likely to be failing? She idles steady as a rock.
The brakes are rubbish, what are the best pads to use for road/track?
Remaps: obviously at 125k I'm not going to be chasing big power, but how is a stage 1 best approached? Decent panel filter, a cat delete and a chip/piggyback?
Cheers chaps
Matt
It's a stock wrx, with fssh, 125k and recently had a cambelt.
The bodywork needs tlc, but it drives very tight.
I've a few questions to ask as this is my first Subaru:
She pulls well, but has a very slight hesitation through the rev range.
The air filter will need replacing, but is the maf likely to be failing? She idles steady as a rock.
The brakes are rubbish, what are the best pads to use for road/track?
Remaps: obviously at 125k I'm not going to be chasing big power, but how is a stage 1 best approached? Decent panel filter, a cat delete and a chip/piggyback?
Cheers chaps
Matt
The slight flat spot in the revs can be sorted with a remap. No idea if your MAF is faulty or not until the laptop is plugged in to do diagnostic. Remove the precat in the uppipe before the turbo and the scrubber cat after the main cat. Decent flat panel air filter. Remap.
Sympathetic remap will easily hit 270bhp and run as smooth as silk. Should be no worries even with 125K on the clock. Just drive it with mechanical sympathy in mind.
Decent pads like Carbonne Lorraine, Performance Friction, Carbotech etc...with the standard brakes will make for a decent set of anchors at that power level.
You car looks in good nick, puts mine to bloody shame!!
Sympathetic remap will easily hit 270bhp and run as smooth as silk. Should be no worries even with 125K on the clock. Just drive it with mechanical sympathy in mind.
Decent pads like Carbonne Lorraine, Performance Friction, Carbotech etc...with the standard brakes will make for a decent set of anchors at that power level.
You car looks in good nick, puts mine to bloody shame!!
Cheers fella! Can I just 'gut' the cats, or are decats cheap enough (not yet looked!)
It does have a scorpion back box, would a remap require a full cat back?
I presume a k&n style panel is all that's required?
Where is best/local to Bristol for the remap?
Sorry for all the questions! Very much enjoying her!
It does have a scorpion back box, would a remap require a full cat back?
I presume a k&n style panel is all that's required?
Where is best/local to Bristol for the remap?
Sorry for all the questions! Very much enjoying her!
If you are happy to gut the standard exhaust then more power to your elbow. I totally encourage owners to do as much as they can themselves, and that is a very DIY and money saving exercise.
There are a number of tuners that will come out to you, some may take you out with them while tuning if you want to be part of the tuning experience and you might learn a few tips too, or you can just give them the keys and they'll return the car all done.
Mapping will be full custom specifically tailored to your mods and how your car is running. This isn't just a flash and go thing like they do for euro cars, that's not remapping by any stretch of the imagination.
All you have to decide is whether you want an Ecutek tune or Open Source tune. Both will give the same results because it's ultimately down to who does the tuning and how it's done. There are good EcuTek Tuners and there are good Open Source Tuners, and there are bad tuners for both systems too.
ETA: K&N, Green Panel, Piper Cross etc... flat panel filters will do. At this level you don't even need to upgrade the fuel pump. Just make sure the car is running well generally, doesn't have any faults you are aware of because the more time the tuner spends sorting faults the less time there is for mapping.
There are a number of tuners that will come out to you, some may take you out with them while tuning if you want to be part of the tuning experience and you might learn a few tips too, or you can just give them the keys and they'll return the car all done.
Mapping will be full custom specifically tailored to your mods and how your car is running. This isn't just a flash and go thing like they do for euro cars, that's not remapping by any stretch of the imagination.
All you have to decide is whether you want an Ecutek tune or Open Source tune. Both will give the same results because it's ultimately down to who does the tuning and how it's done. There are good EcuTek Tuners and there are good Open Source Tuners, and there are bad tuners for both systems too.
ETA: K&N, Green Panel, Piper Cross etc... flat panel filters will do. At this level you don't even need to upgrade the fuel pump. Just make sure the car is running well generally, doesn't have any faults you are aware of because the more time the tuner spends sorting faults the less time there is for mapping.
Edited by ScoobieWRX on Friday 26th October 07:56
I have all the same points/questions.
The things I have noted are:
1) removing the first cat (within the down pipe) may give you more power but it will need to be replaced when MOT comes about.
2) watch out for rear suspension as it is well know that it does fail. (Mine just has)
3) drop links and anti roll bar all improve the overall handerling. (I have just bought these)
Brakes are crap but have not got round to that yet. Aztec seem to do some well priced packages.
Hope this helps.
The things I have noted are:
1) removing the first cat (within the down pipe) may give you more power but it will need to be replaced when MOT comes about.
2) watch out for rear suspension as it is well know that it does fail. (Mine just has)
3) drop links and anti roll bar all improve the overall handerling. (I have just bought these)
Brakes are crap but have not got round to that yet. Aztec seem to do some well priced packages.
Hope this helps.
arthur t said:
1) removing the first cat (within the down pipe) may give you more power but it will need to be replaced when MOT comes about.
Hope this helps.
Simply removing the precat in the uppipe before the turbo and the scrubber cat after the main cat in the downpipe, and leaving the main cat in place, will achieve the desired power results and allow the car to fully pass emissions testing come MOT time.Hope this helps.
A fully decat exhaust though is the best option for best all round performance: Early and fast turbo spooling and boost, plus higher higher boost if required due to the very low back pressure, but you just have to find an MOT friendly tester to help with emissions testing. There is always a way
Thanks for the info chaps.
Any chance of a rough diagram so i know what not to gut?
Anyway, its no longer a shed!
100% dent free after £150 spent on a 'Dentmaster' paintless dent removal man.
Also been 'clayed' and 2 stage polished with my rotary polisher. Came up well for a sub £2k car!
Any chance of a rough diagram so i know what not to gut?
Anyway, its no longer a shed!
100% dent free after £150 spent on a 'Dentmaster' paintless dent removal man.
Also been 'clayed' and 2 stage polished with my rotary polisher. Came up well for a sub £2k car!
i had a bug eye wrx which did the same thing with the hesitation and kept lighting up the engine management light especially when you gave it a boot full. had it in the garage several times and first one said no fault code,2nd time said it was a camshaft sensor,3rd attempt turns out it was dodgy wiring on the coil pack,ran like a dream after that
Right, im slowly working through the car, and still not having any luck solving the hesitation. MPG is rather poor as well, but i assume thats short journeys.
I'm borrowing a scangauge, but no CEL lights have ever popped up.
She even seems 'lumpy' on WOT.
i've done the air filter and petrol filter, and cleaned the MAF (it goes to cut out if i unplug it).
The boost solenoid is next on the agenda.
Shes very grumpy below 2k rpms, almost missing.
Ive also come acquired a Roger Clark lightened flywheel, what should i expect to change the clutch/flywheel? Not sure its worth the hassel at this stage?
I'm borrowing a scangauge, but no CEL lights have ever popped up.
She even seems 'lumpy' on WOT.
i've done the air filter and petrol filter, and cleaned the MAF (it goes to cut out if i unplug it).
The boost solenoid is next on the agenda.
Shes very grumpy below 2k rpms, almost missing.
Ive also come acquired a Roger Clark lightened flywheel, what should i expect to change the clutch/flywheel? Not sure its worth the hassel at this stage?
You need to see a Subaru specialist to have a look at your lumpy idle and hesitation. Could just be something and nothing. Before you fit any lightened flywheels get your engine issues sorted first.
As for your lightened flywheel....So long as it's not one of the really light ones it shouldn't affect idle too much, maybe not at all. If they are too light they can give a lumpy idle and you have to have the idle turned up a little bit so it idles smoother and doesn't cut out.
As for your lightened flywheel....So long as it's not one of the really light ones it shouldn't affect idle too much, maybe not at all. If they are too light they can give a lumpy idle and you have to have the idle turned up a little bit so it idles smoother and doesn't cut out.
ScoobieWRX said:
You need to see a Subaru specialist to have a look at your lumpy idle and hesitation. Could just be something and nothing. Before you fit any lightened flywheels get your engine issues sorted first.
As for your lightened flywheel....So long as it's not one of the really light ones it shouldn't affect idle too much, maybe not at all. If they are too light they can give a lumpy idle and you have to have the idle turned up a little bit so it idles smoother and doesn't cut out.
Any suggestions in and near Bristol/Bath?As for your lightened flywheel....So long as it's not one of the really light ones it shouldn't affect idle too much, maybe not at all. If they are too light they can give a lumpy idle and you have to have the idle turned up a little bit so it idles smoother and doesn't cut out.
Your MAF is Fooked...Fubar....or just plain had it 
Before you buy a new one.....Invest in a bottle of Holts brake cleaner or Alcohol Free solvent cleaner used for cleaning electronics.
Remove the MAF sensor, spray some Brake cleaner on the resin blob at the end of the sensor strip. do not touch it with anything other than the jet of spray from the Brake cleaner can. That is enough to get the crap off it. I bet it's black and covered in crap to start with. Very few people ever clean it and wonder why their MAF sensors fail. Even the dealers during a service don't clean it.
Refit the MAF sensor, then clear codes. If they don't clear or clear and come back almost as soon as you start the engine then it is buggered!!
Either get a used one from a Subaru breaker, or eBay, or get a new one from an indie scooby specialist.
Have fun
Before you buy a new one.....Invest in a bottle of Holts brake cleaner or Alcohol Free solvent cleaner used for cleaning electronics.
Remove the MAF sensor, spray some Brake cleaner on the resin blob at the end of the sensor strip. do not touch it with anything other than the jet of spray from the Brake cleaner can. That is enough to get the crap off it. I bet it's black and covered in crap to start with. Very few people ever clean it and wonder why their MAF sensors fail. Even the dealers during a service don't clean it.
Refit the MAF sensor, then clear codes. If they don't clear or clear and come back almost as soon as you start the engine then it is buggered!!
Either get a used one from a Subaru breaker, or eBay, or get a new one from an indie scooby specialist.
Have fun
I've seen them going for £84. Some specialists are as expensive as a dealer for these kinds of bits. I suggest you shop around and 2nd hand they are usually still very good and will last.
Most scoobs will go through 2 MAFs and 2 Lambda sensors during their lifetime. Par for the course.
Most scoobs will go through 2 MAFs and 2 Lambda sensors during their lifetime. Par for the course.
Why don't you have a chat with Grade A Subaru. Andy might have a new one kicking about otherwise he should have a few used ones. Try RCM (Roger Clark Motorsport) but they aren't cheap and will likely only have new ones. Try a Subaru dealer if you dare, but just ask for the MAF sensor itself without the housing it sits in because they will try and sell you that as well and you're talking silly money. I don't know who's down in your neck of the woods, there must be a specialist or two there somewhere.
Gassing Station | Subaru | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff