Hoonigan's GT40 Build

[johnfm]

I assumed super performance were self build. A CAV is about £85k fully finished on your driveway. Not sure £100k for a rolling chassis is worth it.

Might need to be a Southern in a year or so....

[ezakimak]

Hi Paul,

just been looking at the shifter of Micks that you posted. it certainly does look more like the original than the RF one. Do you have anymore photos of Micks car? I have seen the ones on Southern GTs web site, Just keen to see more.

ive been working on a rotisserie for the front clip at the moment so nothing real exciting.

Ryan

[Hoonigan]

ezakimak said:

Hi Paul,

just been looking at the shifter of Micks that you posted. it certainly does look more like the original than the RF one. Do you have anymore photos of Micks car? I have seen the ones on Southern GTs web site, Just keen to see more.

ive been working on a rotisserie for the front clip at the moment so nothing real exciting.

Ryan

Sorry Ryan the only pics I've seen are the ones on the website too, have you made any chassis decisions yet?

Not too much going on this end either, though I gave fitted my gauges in the dash (though not the dash that will stay in the car as it is a bit warped but good enough for IVA and mock up.
In the process of ordering up a good few parts at the moment for the next phase, so far they are thee flywheel, pulleys, clutch and clutch plate, and a set of roller rockers all required before I can get the engine stripped, dynamically balanced, rebuilt and finally in the car plus the remaining dash switches etc, oh and I have also hopefully tracked down some front suspension parts too so watch this space...

(the steering column has now been shortened to the correct length)

Edited by Hoonigan on Tuesday 2nd September 21:53

[Davel]

Looks great and love the new steering wheel!

[ezakimak]

nothing chassis wise yet other than CAD.


progress thus far is on a rotisserie for the front mould, rear wheel bearings from a FWD toyota for the pivots.


door handles for our group of ten.


one of our group contacted Mick (southern GT) re the latches but he was out of stock and unsure about when he would have them again. so one of the guys in our group is having a go at making them as we speak. We need these parts to fix up the missing recesses in the moulds we have.

fuel caps next.....

Edited by ezakimak on Thursday 4th September 12:19

[Dodgey_Rog]

Just found this thread, love the progress, am currently looking at the Southern or the Tornado kits, i know there's a price difference, but i was going for authenticity and an easier build.

[Hoonigan]

Dodgey_Rog said:

Just found this thread, love the progress, am currently looking at the Southern or the Tornado kits, i know there's a price difference, but i was going for authenticity and an easier build.

I don't think any are particularly easy, that's what Ultima's are for Unfortunatly the Southern GT does not have a manual with it but everyone seems to get along just fine including myself (a complete novice) so don't let it put you off.
I did loads of research into both brands and all of it pointed me to the Southern GT, it may be more expensive but that is because you will end up with a much better car, better specced, better handling and as I'm informed with much better customer service! I truly beleive you get what you pay for with these cars...

Feel free to PM me if you want to discuss further

Paul

[Dodgey_Rog]

Hoonigan said:

Dodgey_Rog said:

Just found this thread, love the progress, am currently looking at the Southern or the Tornado kits, i know there's a price difference, but i was going for authenticity and an easier build.

I don't think any are particularly easy, that's what Ultima's are for Unfortunatly the Southern GT does not have a manual with it but everyone seems to get along just fine including myself (a complete novice) so don't let it put you off.
I did loads of research into both brands and all of it pointed me to the Southern GT, it may be more expensive but that is because you will end up with a much better car, better specced, better handling and as I'm informed with much better customer service! I truly beleive you get what you pay for with these cars...

Feel free to PM me if you want to discuss further

Paul

Thanks Paul, appreciated. Hows your build coming along these days?

[Hoonigan]

Dodgey_Rog said:

Thanks Paul, appreciated. Hows your build coming along these days?

No worries Slowgress is the word, to be honest money is the main issue, I've been doing some saving and this side of Christmas I should have the front uprights, shocks, springs, suspension arms and bolts etc ready to go so at least the front of the car will look like er, well a car (at last). I have also just got my ignition sorted now, it's all sat on the work bench awaiting me to work out how it works... So behind the scenes things are happening and I will post some pics when I have some bits to show off

If your ever down south and want a look and a cuppa just give me a shout.

[Hoonigan]

Small update, shiny bits arrived today,

Yes I know the colours clash a bit, everything was going to be anodized blue and orange but when it came to the shocks it had to be function over form..

Edited by Hoonigan on Tuesday 11th November 22:02

[Hoonigan]

Small update, shiny bits arrived today,

Yes I know the colours clash a bit, everything was going to be anodized blue and orange but when it came to the shocks it had to be function over form..

Edited by Hoonigan on Tuesday 11th November 22:03

[Hoonigan]

Well another milestone (sort of) reached tonight, I've finally finished the A/C off, it was a job that I thought would take a day or so that has been dragging on for weeks now. I do still have the -6 fill valve to fit to the bottom hose in the nose area but it is currently MIA in the mess that is my garage! Pretty happy with end result, front suspension next

[GTRene]

nice heater/blower/airco? unit.

[ezakimak]

Looking good Paul.

Im taking lots of notes here, that for sure. Interesting to see what support structure is used for the base of the windscreen. It looks like a reasonable compromise between fully supporting the windscreen, constructability, access, weight and chassis stiffness. The other car I looked at had a bent tube that ran the entire curvature of the windscreen base. Ill probably spend a few more hours studying those photos.

when do the filler tubes go in for the fuel tanks?

Ryan

[ParanoidAndroid]

Total respect for this build, I can't even begin to imagine how you go about this without a build manual to follow!

[Pixel-Snapper]

Certainly progressed quite a lot since I last look in here.

Good going.

[Hoonigan]

Cheers for the comments, it finally feels like I'm getting somewhere now, picked up the front arms last week too, just need the uprights which I hope to be here this side of Xmas, and then perhaps the neighbours will stop asking what sort of boat I'm building...

Ryan, the fuel fillers are a bit of a pain as can't be fitted until the body is fitted which I don't want to do until last, for now I will just bring the flexible hose up and out the top ready to be cut down to length later. It's also looking like I will have to move my wiper motor (again) as I have realised the wiper arm gear box actually sit further back that I previously though, bit of a balls up on my part but not the end of the world, however it is getting a little tight for space round there..

[Justin S]

Word of help on the air con side. All the pipework, suction side, please insulate it with armaflex , available from any air con suppliers, or you will find condensation dripping on your legs and floors while running it. I would even insulate the rubber hoses, where they are in cavities , to prevent corrosion. All 'normal' cars hoses stay in the engine bay, so and condensation isn't an issue.

[Hoonigan]

Justin S said:

Word of help on the air con side. All the pipework, suction side, please insulate it with armaflex , available from any air con suppliers, or you will find condensation dripping on your legs and floors while running it. I would even insulate the rubber hoses, where they are in cavities , to prevent corrosion. All 'normal' cars hoses stay in the engine bay, so and condensation isn't an issue.

Cheers for the advice, I will look into doing it, Am I right in saying it's just the top hose (second pic) that will need doing, making sure I do the union and fill valve too?

[Justin S]

Yes, the larger hose and fittings will need insulation. Its the hose that returns back to the compressor. Also make sure you have a drain put in from the unit( will have a drain point on the tray). It will have an outlet and must go to gravity drain under the car, or it will splosh water on you when running in cooling and condensation forms.