Thinking of getting 106 GTi. Final Tips & Advice?
Discussion
There's a 106 GTi for sale, 120k miles, year 2000, £900, says FSH. Is this good value? Is it too cheap to be true or just right? Too much mileage or doesn't it matter if FSH is provided?
It's my first time buying so I have a few questions. How do I know if it has FSH on the day I go to view the car? I've accompanied my gf when she bought her car and the FSH just baffled me tbh. I didn't know exactly what I was looking at. Is there anything in a FSH that I should try and spot and avoid if I see?
Is there anything else I should look at in particular when I go look at this car?
Also, does anybody know if I can fit a single din stereo with aux input and/or bluetooth?
Insurance is going to be £1050 and I understand Tax is going to be £270! I better not regret buying then if I do!
Any help greatly appreciated!
It's my first time buying so I have a few questions. How do I know if it has FSH on the day I go to view the car? I've accompanied my gf when she bought her car and the FSH just baffled me tbh. I didn't know exactly what I was looking at. Is there anything in a FSH that I should try and spot and avoid if I see?
Is there anything else I should look at in particular when I go look at this car?
Also, does anybody know if I can fit a single din stereo with aux input and/or bluetooth?
Insurance is going to be £1050 and I understand Tax is going to be £270! I better not regret buying then if I do!
Any help greatly appreciated!
Give it a proper test drive, in particular check the gearbox is nice and smooth with no crunching. These suffer from a very floppy gear stick so if the gearchange feels loose and flimsy it may require a new set of linkages, which aren't too expensive for uprated motorsport items.
Only places they really rust I think are either side of the rear boot in the rear arches. On the drive check there's no funny noises or handling issues coming from the back, and that both rear wheels look like they're in the right place. Rear torsion beams do occasionally collapse on these especially if they've been lowered improperly so worth bearing in mind.
Single DIN radio will go in fine!
Only places they really rust I think are either side of the rear boot in the rear arches. On the drive check there's no funny noises or handling issues coming from the back, and that both rear wheels look like they're in the right place. Rear torsion beams do occasionally collapse on these especially if they've been lowered improperly so worth bearing in mind.
Single DIN radio will go in fine!
Darkslider said:
Give it a proper test drive, in particular check the gearbox is nice and smooth with no crunching. These suffer from a very floppy gear stick so if the gearchange feels loose and flimsy it may require a new set of linkages, which aren't too expensive for uprated motorsport items.
Only places they really rust I think are either side of the rear boot in the rear arches. On the drive check there's no funny noises or handling issues coming from the back, and that both rear wheels look like they're in the right place. Rear torsion beams do occasionally collapse on these especially if they've been lowered improperly so worth bearing in mind.
Single DIN radio will go in fine!
Yup if there is camber at the rear there is a good chance the bearings have collapsed. Only places they really rust I think are either side of the rear boot in the rear arches. On the drive check there's no funny noises or handling issues coming from the back, and that both rear wheels look like they're in the right place. Rear torsion beams do occasionally collapse on these especially if they've been lowered improperly so worth bearing in mind.
Single DIN radio will go in fine!
With regards to rust also check under the front near the jacking point. There is a curved section that Kwik fit mongs tend to use as jacking points which crushes them.
Also keep an eye out for oil on the block above above the alternator, can be a sign that the HG is going/has gone.
The above are all small things really. They are great cars but you need to buy with your eyes open. Had my S2 Rallye nearly six years now.
Make sure the cambelt/water pump has been changed at around 70K miles, at that mileage it would be on my to do list also.
Make sure there is evidence of regular services, once a year or every 12k miles max. The engines are pretty reliable, it the stuff that is bolted onto it which cause problems.
Check the roof lining for signs of leaks or mould, as leaky sunroofs are common problems.
The gearchange wont be as smooth when cold but once warmed up should be nice and smooth.
Great fun little cars! Enjoy.
Make sure there is evidence of regular services, once a year or every 12k miles max. The engines are pretty reliable, it the stuff that is bolted onto it which cause problems.
Check the roof lining for signs of leaks or mould, as leaky sunroofs are common problems.
The gearchange wont be as smooth when cold but once warmed up should be nice and smooth.
Great fun little cars! Enjoy.
Great cars iv had plenty well 7 in fact (amix of 106/saxos) been a few years since I drove one now but IMHO they are still the best small hot hatches of there era
Main point have already been covered,the pas pumps have always been a weak point but are still readily available for 30-80 depending on witch one it is
Also the beauty of them is pretty much everything can be done on them with basic knowlage and a basic tool kit!
Main point have already been covered,the pas pumps have always been a weak point but are still readily available for 30-80 depending on witch one it is
Also the beauty of them is pretty much everything can be done on them with basic knowlage and a basic tool kit!
Do these naturally have a sloppy/loose gearshift? When I had my Saxo VTR (which I presume is the same gearbox) it had quite a long and wooley throw. But that was a scrapper, so it probably did need refreshed linkages.
I only ask as I am considering buying a 106 Rallye (either S1 or S2). The shifter looks fairly long and goes straight into the floor , the same as you would see in the 205/209 GTi. When it's 'right' does it have a good shift, or is it always a bit soft?
I only ask as I am considering buying a 106 Rallye (either S1 or S2). The shifter looks fairly long and goes straight into the floor , the same as you would see in the 205/209 GTi. When it's 'right' does it have a good shift, or is it always a bit soft?
Ive got one with 108k miles on it and had it since it had 56k.
Other than a leaky sunroof due to the passanger drainage pillar blocked down the inside of the widnscreen Iv'e had 5 trouble free years of mototing.
Just service it regularly, I have had no major issues yet other than consumables - cheap, reliable & fun.
Other than a leaky sunroof due to the passanger drainage pillar blocked down the inside of the widnscreen Iv'e had 5 trouble free years of mototing.
Just service it regularly, I have had no major issues yet other than consumables - cheap, reliable & fun.
Thanks everybody for the informative replies, I would be none the wiser otherwise, so I greatly appreciate the help. The one I'm looking at doesn't have a sunroof so that's one less thing to worry about any leakage
I've discovered that the servicing intervals for this car is 2 years or 20k miles. What should I do if there is a gap in the SH when they show me it? Maybe I'm being unduly pessimistic about this but I'm anticipating that for a car this old with such high mileage, the FSH isn't going to be flawless?
Also, I read somewhere to look out for track day abuse, but apart from the checks you guys have recommended I'm not sure how preoccupied I should be with such a worry?
I've discovered that the servicing intervals for this car is 2 years or 20k miles. What should I do if there is a gap in the SH when they show me it? Maybe I'm being unduly pessimistic about this but I'm anticipating that for a car this old with such high mileage, the FSH isn't going to be flawless?
Also, I read somewhere to look out for track day abuse, but apart from the checks you guys have recommended I'm not sure how preoccupied I should be with such a worry?
Autosdirect said:
Great cars iv had plenty well 7 in fact (amix of 106/saxos) been a few years since I drove one now but IMHO they are still the best small hot hatches of there era
Main point have already been covered,the pas pumps have always been a weak point but are still readily available for 30-80 depending on witch one it is
Also the beauty of them is pretty much everything can be done on them with basic knowlage and a basic tool kit!
That's exactly what has attracted me to the 106 GTI. I want to dabble in my kitting-a-car-up fantasy and a cheap French car seems a perfect place to start. Reliability issues, with it being French, will serve as lessons for me starting off my journey into car ownership. I read in a review about the curious nature of its raw-ness; it makes the lower powered 106s feel crude and the sporty ones even sportier. Sounds promising!Main point have already been covered,the pas pumps have always been a weak point but are still readily available for 30-80 depending on witch one it is
Also the beauty of them is pretty much everything can be done on them with basic knowlage and a basic tool kit!
Track day abuse is a very loose term. I wouldn't be overly worried about a car that has seen a few track days. I would be more worried about those that have been lowered to the bump stops and caned around Halfords car park.
I also wouldnt't worry too much about service history as these cars are so easy to work on many DIY it. Ideally I'd want proof that the cambelt has been done but if it hasn't it shouldn't be too expensive to get done. Easy to DIY if you are fairly confident with the spanners.
I've always found the gear change pretty long and sloppy as standard. The rubber parts of the gear linkages often wear but are easy to change. I would check to see if any play in the gear change is in the linkages or the box itself by checking the play at the selector arms as they come out of the box. There are various quick shifts out there which will help shorten the throw if that's what you are looking for.
I also wouldnt't worry too much about service history as these cars are so easy to work on many DIY it. Ideally I'd want proof that the cambelt has been done but if it hasn't it shouldn't be too expensive to get done. Easy to DIY if you are fairly confident with the spanners.
I've always found the gear change pretty long and sloppy as standard. The rubber parts of the gear linkages often wear but are easy to change. I would check to see if any play in the gear change is in the linkages or the box itself by checking the play at the selector arms as they come out of the box. There are various quick shifts out there which will help shorten the throw if that's what you are looking for.
Out of all the 106 GTIs I have looked at, this one I've seen is the only one with advertised FSH. I'm beginning to think FSH is a loose term in itself. What counts as full? Is there an official time when it should be done and who decides when that is?
Yeah I wouldn't buy one where I couldn't see the top of the wheel under the arch.
Long throw gear changes don't bother me in the slightest, especially since I learnt about the effects of "snapshifting" in the other thread.
Yeah I wouldn't buy one where I couldn't see the top of the wheel under the arch.
Long throw gear changes don't bother me in the slightest, especially since I learnt about the effects of "snapshifting" in the other thread.
What do you think to this as a plan, I'm going to text him now for first time asking him:
- How often it has been serviced with proof
- Proof of when the cambelt was last changed
- Any modifications
- Any previous major damage
- Any other issues with engine, bodywork, etc.
Thinking of texting him cuz I don't know when I would be able to see it just yet. If he sends back a satisfactory reply I will phone him once I know when and ask if it's possible to test drive it. I think he is a freelance trader so I doubt he has any test driver insurance?
- How often it has been serviced with proof
- Proof of when the cambelt was last changed
- Any modifications
- Any previous major damage
- Any other issues with engine, bodywork, etc.
Thinking of texting him cuz I don't know when I would be able to see it just yet. If he sends back a satisfactory reply I will phone him once I know when and ask if it's possible to test drive it. I think he is a freelance trader so I doubt he has any test driver insurance?
rb5er said:
Given up on the Lupo then?
Yeah there was just a mental block that stopped me from taking the next step when I considered that I would be paying a minimum of 3k for the car, 1.2k for insurance. When push came to shove I guess I just wasn't ready to depart with that sum of money. Might seem small for some, alot for others, but all I know is, my instinct told me not to do it. When I considered that I could get a 106 GTi for £900, managed to get a quote for 1k, my in-self just said "YES, DO IT!" lolI know someone at work who had a Mini Cooper which she said the petrol and tax was too expensive so she downsized to a brand new Corsa on finance. Now me, personally, I just cannot comprehend how somebody who wants to downsize for financial reasons would then take out a brand new car on a loan. I'm generally very tight with money though, I just don't know how to spend it half the time. I don't know the financial details of how much she is actually saving but I'm sure my view on borrowing money is radically different to her's.
Just because it's cheap to buy, doesn't mean it's going to be cheap to own. A Lupo may cost more, but I'd say probably almost certainly more reliable. You'd better get handy with the spanners quickly, because at that mileage I'd say you'll be constantly replacing bits. Personally, I probably wouldn't buy one on over 100k.
I've owned a VTR for the last 2 years, bought on 50k, now on 68k. In that time I've replaced a driveshaft, lower balljoint, ARB drop-link, discs and pads(consumables you'd have to replace on any car, admittedly), the exhaust and probably some other bits I've forgotten. Not massive problems, but certainly not trouble-free motoring. The parts are cheap, but you'll be forever replacing this and that.
I've owned a VTR for the last 2 years, bought on 50k, now on 68k. In that time I've replaced a driveshaft, lower balljoint, ARB drop-link, discs and pads(consumables you'd have to replace on any car, admittedly), the exhaust and probably some other bits I've forgotten. Not massive problems, but certainly not trouble-free motoring. The parts are cheap, but you'll be forever replacing this and that.
I'm going to be using the car for social use only. I walk to work. I'm insured as a second driver on my gf's Aygo which is always on the driveway when I need to use it. I'm an aspiring mechanic that actually wants to get his hands dirty fixing something.
Does that change anything?
I do admit that I'm usually very averse to high mileage cars, but given my situation, I don't think it matters much. What do you think?
Does that change anything?
I do admit that I'm usually very averse to high mileage cars, but given my situation, I don't think it matters much. What do you think?
I've had a couple of these 106 16v gti's with 120k+ miles and fsh and they were still well screwed together and drove really well dont let 100k put you off if backed up with history.
Also use vosa mot history check to verify recent mileage and mot advisories.
Condition more important than mileage on these old things now. If its been well maintained could be excellent, if its beeen absused and poorly maintained likely to be a pile of junk.
Look out for worn rear beam, worn gear linkage, slippy clutch, bumps and bangs from suspension over pot-holes, driver seat worn look for fore and aft movement on its runners.
If you get a good one they are terrific, sub £1k is banger money for these as good ones fetch £2k plus.
Also use vosa mot history check to verify recent mileage and mot advisories.
Condition more important than mileage on these old things now. If its been well maintained could be excellent, if its beeen absused and poorly maintained likely to be a pile of junk.
Look out for worn rear beam, worn gear linkage, slippy clutch, bumps and bangs from suspension over pot-holes, driver seat worn look for fore and aft movement on its runners.
If you get a good one they are terrific, sub £1k is banger money for these as good ones fetch £2k plus.
rallycross said:
I've had a couple of these 106 16v gti's with 120k+ miles and fsh and they were still well screwed together and drove really well dont let 100k put you off if backed up with history.
Also use vosa mot history check to verify recent mileage and mot advisories.
Condition more important than mileage on these old things now. If its been well maintained could be excellent, if its beeen absused and poorly maintained likely to be a pile of junk.
Look out for worn rear beam, worn gear linkage, slippy clutch, bumps and bangs from suspension over pot-holes, driver seat worn look for fore and aft movement on its runners.
If you get a good one they are terrific, sub £1k is banger money for these as good ones fetch £2k plus.
How do I look for a worn rear beam and slippy clutch? Gotta be honest I'm not 100% sure what a rear beam is :/Also use vosa mot history check to verify recent mileage and mot advisories.
Condition more important than mileage on these old things now. If its been well maintained could be excellent, if its beeen absused and poorly maintained likely to be a pile of junk.
Look out for worn rear beam, worn gear linkage, slippy clutch, bumps and bangs from suspension over pot-holes, driver seat worn look for fore and aft movement on its runners.
If you get a good one they are terrific, sub £1k is banger money for these as good ones fetch £2k plus.
My gf is telling me there has to be something wrong with it for £900 but from the pictures, it looks like one of the more legit ones out there. Looks in original condition apart from stereo, if it's been lowered then it looks like just the right amount, interior although a bit dusty on the fabric part of the seats, looks in very good condition, leather not too tired looking.
![](http://thumbsnap.com/sc/Pel54WrQ.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="http://thumbsnap.com/lV4GVJL8" Target="_blank">[img]http://thumbsnap.com/sc/lV4GVJL8.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="http://thumbsnap.com/iw698QAD" Target="_blank">[img]http://thumbsnap.com/sc/iw698QAD.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="http://thumbsnap.com/ZTNsTnMW" Target="_blank">[img]http://thumbsnap.com/sc/ZTNsTnMW.jpg)
Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff