Engine Mount Removal
Discussion
Has anyone successfully managed to cut out the engine mounts on an S2?
I'm about to give up trying to remove the 20 year old nuts that are holding them in (probably not 20 years old as I'm sure they have been replaced at some point, but thats what they look like)
They've soaked in Plusgas for three days and still won't budge!!
Cheers
Liam
I'm about to give up trying to remove the 20 year old nuts that are holding them in (probably not 20 years old as I'm sure they have been replaced at some point, but thats what they look like)
They've soaked in Plusgas for three days and still won't budge!!
Cheers
Liam
Very difficult to "attack" from nut side I'd have thought, guess you mean nuts to chassis not to engine bracket?
Is there room (with engine bracket removed) to cut or burn off rubber then grind the stud out of the metal disc that I imagine will remain ?
Easy to have these "good ideas" in the comfort and warmth of my house, maybe totally impractical when you're out there in the cold with the job in front of you
Is there room (with engine bracket removed) to cut or burn off rubber then grind the stud out of the metal disc that I imagine will remain ?
Easy to have these "good ideas" in the comfort and warmth of my house, maybe totally impractical when you're out there in the cold with the job in front of you
Liam,
Bought another then?
You could try undoing the mounting bracket from the engine and rotating them slightly using an oil filter wrench (or a rubber equivalent - I have one called an anaconda and it is excellent) then undo the top nut. Once this one is off (easier access) you can then just wedge a spanner on the lower one and use the filter wrech to rotate the mount itself. My top ones came off OK on my engine removal but the lower one had to be done as described above.
The only other choice I think would be to cut an access hole in the footwell and then use a socxket and breaker bar on the lower nut then manufacture an access panel for the hole just cut.
HTH
Mark
Bought another then?
You could try undoing the mounting bracket from the engine and rotating them slightly using an oil filter wrench (or a rubber equivalent - I have one called an anaconda and it is excellent) then undo the top nut. Once this one is off (easier access) you can then just wedge a spanner on the lower one and use the filter wrech to rotate the mount itself. My top ones came off OK on my engine removal but the lower one had to be done as described above.
The only other choice I think would be to cut an access hole in the footwell and then use a socxket and breaker bar on the lower nut then manufacture an access panel for the hole just cut.
HTH
Mark
Hi All
Thanks for the comments, some useful advice. At the moment I can't get either engine mount side or chassis side undone. I think this is one of those jobs garages have avoided, the sump is rubbing on the anti rollbar so need doing before, if it hasn't already, it makes a hole in the sump.
I'll have another go tomorrow, but I think it will be a case of mounts off the engine and then either cut through the bolts via Barry's method or try holding/turning the rubber with this-
Thanks for the comments, some useful advice. At the moment I can't get either engine mount side or chassis side undone. I think this is one of those jobs garages have avoided, the sump is rubbing on the anti rollbar so need doing before, if it hasn't already, it makes a hole in the sump.
I'll have another go tomorrow, but I think it will be a case of mounts off the engine and then either cut through the bolts via Barry's method or try holding/turning the rubber with this-
phillpot said:
Believe it or not I have one of those from my cycling days, I also have a oil filter wrench that might work.mep12345 said:
Bought another then?
Hi Mark. good to hear from you. No not bought another one YET, this is for a friend.Not trying to teach anyone how to suck eggs but if struggling for leverage with a spanner but can't get a socket on try this,two spanners "locked" together. Enough force to snap off up to M10 quite easily and shouldn't damage (good quality) spanners.
Of course if nut rounded or bolt spinning you still have a problem.
Of course if nut rounded or bolt spinning you still have a problem.
Hi Liam,
It's a bit of a br isn't it?
I found access is made possible ( just ) with the front wheels removed ( that's essential ), and using a 17mm flex-head ratchet ring spanner and a chain wrench similar to Phillpot's. Or plumber's swan neck pipe grips.
Also Barry's hacksaw blade method to saw through the stud once you have enough clearance to get it in saves a lot of struggling.
I did mine at the same time as I was replacing the exhaust manifolds so I had a little extra room to play in.
There are a few previous threads on here with good advice.
I think Longers' method is by far the best
It's a bit of a br isn't it?
I found access is made possible ( just ) with the front wheels removed ( that's essential ), and using a 17mm flex-head ratchet ring spanner and a chain wrench similar to Phillpot's. Or plumber's swan neck pipe grips.
Also Barry's hacksaw blade method to saw through the stud once you have enough clearance to get it in saves a lot of struggling.
I did mine at the same time as I was replacing the exhaust manifolds so I had a little extra room to play in.
There are a few previous threads on here with good advice.
I think Longers' method is by far the best
Edited by glenrobbo on Sunday 24th February 22:23
If you can get one of these it may cut through the rubber.
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gigli_saw
Just don't think too hard about its proper use - more or less what is used to amputate bits off you if you are stuck in accident wreckage.
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gigli_saw
Just don't think too hard about its proper use - more or less what is used to amputate bits off you if you are stuck in accident wreckage.
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