MX5 MK2 - serious rust issues? check before you buy one!
Discussion
I popped into my local MOT station today and they were testing a 2003 MX5. I know the guy well and he knows I have a MK1...
He called me over to look at the front chassis rails on what was an immaculate car...
I have not seen rot like it for years! it was like looking under a 70's car! The whole chassis rails both sides were totally rotten!
seems that VOSA have made testers aware of the problems and where to look for corrosion, which is affecting a lot of cars, he said he had failed quite a few recently...
The owner of this one was not happy as he had only bought it 9 months ago and paid over the odds as it was a very tidy car, with low miles. By the look of it it was beyond economical repair...
I was not aware that the MK2 rot so badly...
He called me over to look at the front chassis rails on what was an immaculate car...
I have not seen rot like it for years! it was like looking under a 70's car! The whole chassis rails both sides were totally rotten!
seems that VOSA have made testers aware of the problems and where to look for corrosion, which is affecting a lot of cars, he said he had failed quite a few recently...
The owner of this one was not happy as he had only bought it 9 months ago and paid over the odds as it was a very tidy car, with low miles. By the look of it it was beyond economical repair...
I was not aware that the MK2 rot so badly...
Genie Chaser said:
Does this issue arise on the 3 / 3.5 models ??
They are totally different to the mk1/2 but they aren't totally immune from the dreaded iron oxide. My mates mk3 (20,000 miler '07 plate) has rust on the door window quarter upright and also where the side indicator sits on the front arch. The most concerning one is a lot of bubbling underneath the car, right next where the front topmount locates to the chassis.Genie Chaser said:
Does this issue arise on the 3 / 3.5 models ??
I think its too early to say unfortunately. When I was buying a mk2.5 4 years ago, the rear sills were known to rust but no one was talking about the chassis rails, I've only seen reports of these in the last couple of years, presumably as more cars are starting to be affected, guess it'll be the same for mk3s.Genie Chaser said:
Best keep an eye on it. Its a 10 plate, but if u get there early with it can only be good. Thought this rot problem was a thing of the past on modern metal tho.
The tech is there to make it a lot better, but often to save money companies are not the best at using it it seems.Some pictures of the potential issue here:
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/forum/forums/t/46836.aspx?P...
Edited by NRS on Tuesday 30th April 09:36
My thread is here -
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=116...
I have since repaired it, just by cutting back and back until I got back to areas with more metal than rust! Then filled back in with a big piece of galvanized steel I found.
I fully expect that in another couple of years it will be coming through again though, short of taking the engine out & completely replacing the front chassis pieces with the revised Mazda parts I don't see a way to stop it.
One good part is that the part from where the subframe mounts back to the bulkhead seems OK, the bad bits are forward of that.
I would definitely agree that it's a VOSA safety issue as you see in some of the pics in my thread the rust starts inbetween the two sheets, and there can be no strength left in it whatsoever before you can even see a mm of rust, even on ramps with the trays removed.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=116...
I have since repaired it, just by cutting back and back until I got back to areas with more metal than rust! Then filled back in with a big piece of galvanized steel I found.
I fully expect that in another couple of years it will be coming through again though, short of taking the engine out & completely replacing the front chassis pieces with the revised Mazda parts I don't see a way to stop it.
One good part is that the part from where the subframe mounts back to the bulkhead seems OK, the bad bits are forward of that.
I would definitely agree that it's a VOSA safety issue as you see in some of the pics in my thread the rust starts inbetween the two sheets, and there can be no strength left in it whatsoever before you can even see a mm of rust, even on ramps with the trays removed.
I bought my missus a seemingly immaculate 53plate Sport locally after looking at a few within a 30mile radius of North Kent.
It had just had an MOT and as part of the deal with the trader, it was going into the local Mazda Specialist for a new cambelt.
As id paid a deposit, I rang said specialist up and asked if it was sound. ‘Oh yeah, its on the ramp now - nothing wrong with it underneath’.
Seven month’s down the line, the sills start bubbling. I had a look and could see unpainted filler, so thank you very much Mr MOT station and also Fr******e M***a.
Based on the quality of his work, I book it into the MX5 Restorer for both arches and as a precaution he checks the front chassis for me. You’ve guessed it - They were both past the point of an MOT fail.
At this point, it was a case of sell up and buy another car (which may one day have the exact same problem), or get it fixed properly - knowing that its now fully sorted for the life of the car.
So four figures later, we have the rust free/rust proof car back looking clean with no faults and it alsp goes straight through a proper MOT.
In summary the wife has the car she wanted & I had peace of mind. It just cost a few quid.
One lesson I did learn was not to buy a car that had spent any time on Scottish roads. Lots of snow = lost of salt on the roads.
It had just had an MOT and as part of the deal with the trader, it was going into the local Mazda Specialist for a new cambelt.
As id paid a deposit, I rang said specialist up and asked if it was sound. ‘Oh yeah, its on the ramp now - nothing wrong with it underneath’.
Seven month’s down the line, the sills start bubbling. I had a look and could see unpainted filler, so thank you very much Mr MOT station and also Fr******e M***a.
Based on the quality of his work, I book it into the MX5 Restorer for both arches and as a precaution he checks the front chassis for me. You’ve guessed it - They were both past the point of an MOT fail.
At this point, it was a case of sell up and buy another car (which may one day have the exact same problem), or get it fixed properly - knowing that its now fully sorted for the life of the car.
So four figures later, we have the rust free/rust proof car back looking clean with no faults and it alsp goes straight through a proper MOT.
In summary the wife has the car she wanted & I had peace of mind. It just cost a few quid.
One lesson I did learn was not to buy a car that had spent any time on Scottish roads. Lots of snow = lost of salt on the roads.
I have seen this on MX5s here recently. It is easy to spot with the steering on full lock through the wheelarch. Even if there is no holing, there will be blistering of the outer skin by the expansion of the rust between the two skins, just like the blistering between the rear quarter panel and sill behind the door ahead of the rear wheel. The earlier it is dealt with, the easier it is. I photograph EVERYTHING for the client in this kind of situation and email updates as the job progresses along. The client then has a good record and can pass it on to a new owner.
I purchased a MK3 recently and there are lots of good looking cars but the undersides are shocking. Subframe and sill infront of the rear arch.
I got a a very tidy one, when I got it home I put it straight on stands and epoxy coated subframe and wishbones which where still factory black paint, stone chipped blacked inner sill area and other high impact regions, and waxoyled. After years of TVR ownership you tend to look on the underside a lot. Also Monaro / VXR8 are bad as there is no underbody protection at all given there is no snow in Aus. Finding a good one of those even less than 3 years old was difficult. On the flipside I have 13 year Shogun and 15 Disco both waxoyled from new and are still in the factory paint under the wax. Prevention is better than cure.
I got a a very tidy one, when I got it home I put it straight on stands and epoxy coated subframe and wishbones which where still factory black paint, stone chipped blacked inner sill area and other high impact regions, and waxoyled. After years of TVR ownership you tend to look on the underside a lot. Also Monaro / VXR8 are bad as there is no underbody protection at all given there is no snow in Aus. Finding a good one of those even less than 3 years old was difficult. On the flipside I have 13 year Shogun and 15 Disco both waxoyled from new and are still in the factory paint under the wax. Prevention is better than cure.
I am staggered with the scale of this issue, and have only stumbled upon the discussion boards, due to my own MX5/Eunos Mk2 RS spec, having failed the MOT for the first time in 9 years due to corrosion of the 'Chassis Rails'. It has passed the MOT, with some welding which I consider a temporary situation. I have also wondered why the price of the MK2's was dropping so badly this last 12 months or so, and it seems that this is as a direct result of this issue becoming more widely known, who in their right mind would by a MK2 now, knowing that it has such a serious safty, and corossion issue.
I've been a MX5 owners club member from time to time, and will be contacting them shortly, but I will let you all know soon how my negotiation's are doing with Mazda UK, I have put them on notice that I will be exposing this on prime time TV and Media, should they decide not to act responsibly on the safety aspect of THE most popular sports car ever sold!...................
I've been a MX5 owners club member from time to time, and will be contacting them shortly, but I will let you all know soon how my negotiation's are doing with Mazda UK, I have put them on notice that I will be exposing this on prime time TV and Media, should they decide not to act responsibly on the safety aspect of THE most popular sports car ever sold!...................
Edited by Philljones on Thursday 5th September 10:58
I had a very nice looking '53 reg car here recently, in fact i had two, one needed outer sill/quarter panel repairs which were localised and repaired easily with the panels I make,which include drains, and are painted inside before welding in, and are waxed up thoroughly too.
The other car required what can only be described as a restoration to meet the MoT! rear outer wheel arches, inner arches, inner/outer sills/ diaphragms/ floor pan repairs, pretty outrageous stuff really. All absorbed by a dedicated owner.
Inappropriate on a ten year old modern car
The other car required what can only be described as a restoration to meet the MoT! rear outer wheel arches, inner arches, inner/outer sills/ diaphragms/ floor pan repairs, pretty outrageous stuff really. All absorbed by a dedicated owner.
Inappropriate on a ten year old modern car
Saw this on Nutz recently:
http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1...
Horrific amounts of rust, but worth a look through.
http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1...
Horrific amounts of rust, but worth a look through.
Out of interest, just how dangerous is the rust issue?
For example, if I was to turn my car into a track car - and maybe trailor it in the future (hell if I am going to spend money on coilovers, a roll bar etc) I dont want to bin it.
Is my engine like to fall out or something ridiculous?
:-)
For example, if I was to turn my car into a track car - and maybe trailor it in the future (hell if I am going to spend money on coilovers, a roll bar etc) I dont want to bin it.
Is my engine like to fall out or something ridiculous?
:-)
Henry Fiddleton said:
Out of interest, just how dangerous is the rust issue?
For example, if I was to turn my car into a track car - and maybe trailor it in the future (hell if I am going to spend money on coilovers, a roll bar etc) I dont want to bin it.
Is my engine like to fall out or something ridiculous?
:-)
Looking at the one I saw, I would not want to track it, especially when MK1's are so cheap....For example, if I was to turn my car into a track car - and maybe trailor it in the future (hell if I am going to spend money on coilovers, a roll bar etc) I dont want to bin it.
Is my engine like to fall out or something ridiculous?
:-)
I looked at a Mazda 3 the other day... lots of rust underneath... and a 2004 Mazda 6 with completely rotten sills...
Mazda have a real rust problem...
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