squeaky brakes and rear wheel

[eoinbenjimancox]

squeaky brakes and rear wheel , hi folks, just traded in my old 06 110,000 mile meteorite grey vantage for an 06 silver with only 30,000 miles. lovely car and also has am warranty. only thing is brakes are extremely squeaky and the rear wheel. i know jamming on at ahbout 50 mph is supposed to clear it up, but no joy any ideas.

thanks in advance

[David Robbo]

I found out that it was the Hand Brake Pads hanging on, and over adjusted, and that the genuine Brenbo Pads are so hard, they have so much Copper in them that they were bound to squeak, as soon as the Discs get hot and expand the Pads squeak, they also have no chamfer to them.
I removed the Pads, chamfered the hell out of them, de adjusted the Handbrake, and that sorted it.
When the Pads wear out I will look for Pads. With a softer compound,
Dave Robbo

[eoinbenjimancox]

thanks david. what exactly is chamfered?http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/imgs/12.gif

[mikey k]

Common issue both mine did it
Factory intervened on the new on
Two things
Adjust the handbrake with the cars weight on its wheels (too many re done with it on a lift and the adjustment changes when it is lowered on to the wheels.
Use the blue polymer based anti squeal compound rather than the copper one
Chamfering does help for a while

[X7LDA]

Or change the pads to ones that don't squael...

Will never understand people settling for brake noise on their Aston. Any kind of slick behind the pad is only going to work for a certain period of time. You have to take the pads out to apply it anyway so might as well spend the extra couple of hundred pounds and swap them out.

[v8woollie]

Had my squeaking handbrake done a year ago. I was told the handbrake pad was a revised part and they used the blue anti-squeal compound and I've never had the noise return.

[john ryan]

I think there is some confusion here between footbrake and handbrake - which are separate systems.

Squealing footbrake is a high frequency vibration due to the materials of the friction material/brake disc. The permanent cure is to change a material to one which does not cause vibration in the audible range - easiest is to change the kind/maker of friction material, as has been stated (and may be the AM 'revised' part). Sometimes an anti-squeal grease applied to the back of the pad will damp out the vibrations (ie AM blue gloop); this cure is often temporary, but it may work long term depending on braking habits.

Footbrake squeal can sometimes be cured by getting the brakes good and hot in a high speed stop - this may clear glazing (a kind of glassy varnish) on the pads , and clean up the pad/disc interface. It may also make glazing worse, which will result in poor braking performance. In the latter case the only cure is to remove the pads and clear the glazing manually with a hard abrasive paper, or put in new pads, followed by bedding them under braking to match the pad/disc surfaces more closely.

Handbrake oink is caused by rubbing of the handbrake pads on the disc in the 'off' condition. It is cured by backing off the handbrake adjustment, as has been stated. Blue gloop will not help, but sounds kind of technical and is part of the dealer patter. Chamfering the leading sharp edge of the handbrake pads may also stop the oink, but it will not cure the rubbing - so backing off the adjustment slightly is the answer.

Hope this helps.

[drmw]

Had this (still do sometimes) on mine - JCT adjusted the cable routing - apparently it's caused by the rear subframe twisting as you go round corners which actually applies the handbrake very slightly - the re-routing of the cables reduces the effect