My greatest biking adventure. Yet.
Discussion
A long post, but it would be remiss to not share my greatest riding adventure yet.
It was an innocuous conversation that kicked it off sometime last December on yet another cold and wet evening spent online instead of riding our pride and joys. Someone blurted out the kind of words petrolheads' ears go all Spock - "Pyrenees", "Alps", "no tolls", "Millau Viaduct". A virtual round of hands went up as to who wanted in on what was going to be a bucket list trip for a bunch of mid-life-crisis bikers who's previous idea of a 'road trip' was the weekend ride out to OnYerBike or somewhere equally salubrious.
And so a plan was hatched: an 8 day hoon with daily roads were identified, rest stops, attractions, and hotels proposed along the way. Road rules were simple: no motorways, no toll roads, and most of us were going to bring the most uncomfortable Italians to tarnish their 'garage queen' status. The ferry was suddenly paid for back in early January, and suddenly everyone went, "OMG, we're actually going!"
The 2,100 mile itinerary was approximately as follows:
Days 0/1: Home --> Plymouth --> Santander by ferry
Days 2 - 7: Route as per map
Day 7: Toulouse --> Paris by Autotrain, ride home from Paris.
Sadly the 8 soon became "The Magnificent 7" after one of us had his tour of Afghanistan extended (we salute you, Cardy). Months passed, and hardly a week was not spent discussing what to pack/do/prep - it is amazing how much thought needs to be made when your life needs to be packed into a 30L backpack. With just over a month to go, the "Magnificent 7" became the "Famous 5" - an MV F4 RR, Ducati 1098, Ducati 1098R, Aprilia Tuono R, and a GSXR Thou K6. Fast forward to departure weekend and despite weeks of mechanical prep, suddenly one of the Italian mistresses decided to throw a tantrum. Emergency help ensued on a late Saturday before departure on Sunday morning: coil packs replaced, and all seemed good again. Phew! Roll on Sunday morning, and we were like kids before Christmas waiting for Santa. Plymouth here we come, our berths onboard the Pont Aven to Santander were awaiting...
Day 0: Getting to Plymouth
It was an ominous start: the coil pack repaired Italian b
h (no longer the mistress) decided to throw another hissy fit en route to the ferry terminal. It was barely a few miles away from home when disaster struck. The hissy fit turned into an almighty inferno when the Ducati 1098 ignited whilst on the move - perhaps a riders worst nightmare other than an RTA. Luckily for her, she was unhurt and managed to escape after a van frantically waved her down with flames spewing from underneath.
You can only imagine how Rosemary felt watching 6 months of waiting/dreaming go up in flames on the very morning en route to the ferry. And so the Famous 5 became the Fantastic 4, although truth be told we have remained the Famous 5 in spirit. And so 4 of us pressed on to Plymouth where we prepped for the sail ahead.
Day 1: Plymouth to Santander
The Pont Aven is great, and the crossing was smooth as silk, the hoards of bikers gave assurance that even if we virginal tourers hadn't a clue, at least others did! We took the option of an outside berth cabin, one step down from the already sold-out Commodore cabins. It was ace, and we got a great rest for the ride ahead.
Day 2: Santander -> San Sebastian
When we reached Santander, it all seemed bit of a mad rush. The TomTom had the route to San Sebastian, and as soon as we rolled off the ferry ramp, the adrenaline ensued. A couple of quick turns out of Santander, and it was clear Spanish drivers enjoyed their roads. Jostling along a brief stretch of two lane motorway for a couple of miles to get ourselves acclimatised, and we peeled off south into the mountainous areas of the Montana Oriental, Ojo Guarena, and Parque Natural Montes Obarenes-San Zadorni. O. M. G. I normally would never wish this upon anyone, but let me just say 'thank you' to the EU Commission for helping fund development of the Spanish roads to the economic detriment of its people. Trust me Spaniards: you are blessed. If not in wallet, at least in terms of the most heavenly tarmac there must be in the Western Hemisphere. You have much to be grateful for.
The first time I wound up the Ducati 1098R through 3rd, deep into 4th, and then settling into 5th along a constant radius turn off the motorway, half bum cheek off, helmet overlooking front wheel witnessing aerial hari-kiri by mother nature on the visor, is something no biker can ever get tired of. I love hanging off through Hawthorne and Dingle Dell, but this has it licked. The roads were immediately sinuous and yelps of joyous expletives lollered over the Scala intercoms. We must have been 50 miles in before our first break when we jumped off the bikes beaming.
The rollercoaster continued, and we eventually rolled into San Sebastian staying at the 5* Hotel Londres right on the beach. Bikes were parked securely, and needless to say, night time Pintxos and cervezas flowed that night in San Seb. This trip reminded me of Gap year renewed, just 20 years later. Hola Espagne!
Heading into the mountains, it was a daily torrent of just awe, wonder, and amazement. Few words described the brilliant roads when attacked on the most unlikely of 'touring bikes'. The superbikes loved these environments: they were fast, and they had an insatiable appetite for every sinuous curve and bend - although they extracted Herculean efforts by everyone. The Tuono looked like the most suitable for the really tight corners and hairpins - wide sit up renthal-like bars allowed it to be tipped in with ease, although the Ducati/GSXR/MV had the legs and comfort on the fast and flowing bends at anything over 120 leptons. Tourers? Pah!
Day 3: San Sebastian --> Bielle, via Jaca
Day 3 saw us head inland from San Sebastian towards the north western Pyrenees, crossing over from Oloron-Sainte-Marie to Jaca via the N-134/N-330. From Jaca, we turned the corner along the N-260a via Torla/Biescas and back over towards Laruns and where we stayed for night 2 at Bielle.
This route was not without incident, however. I was leading the pack at a rate of knots, with us yabbering away on the Scalas, when I suddenly heard, "watch out for the dog! DOG!". The Scala then went silent. My heart was pounding as I pulled over and saw no headlights behind me. Last time I went 'dog!', I ended up in hospital for 8 days - and this time I feared the worst had happened to one of my mates. Quick U-turn, and as I arrived at the scene, thankfully everyone was walking around and no bikes were on their side. A large Pyrenean mountain dog had decided to play a game of chicken with the Tuono. The Ape had lost its front mudguard and some fairings as it T-boned the dog at speed and somehow, miraculously, my mate stayed upright on the big v-twin. The dog was walking although clearly in some pain. Surprisingly, the farmer who owned the dog just shrugged his shoulders and didn't seem to care about either the dog or the damage to the bike. The Aprilia was still running fine and only sustained aesthetic damage, and so we decided to continue on.
Day 4: the heart of the Pyrenees
Day 4 sent us across the heart of the Pyrenees and we detoured to see Gavarnie Falls, the tallest waterfall in France. Gavarnie itself is a popular ski resort and hiking town, and we headed for the top of the resort where the views reminded us of why trips like these were a necessary antidote to urban life. Temps in the mountains were a perfect 15-25 celsius, and the sun was beaming! Could it get any better than this?!
After heading for Aragnouet via the mountain passes, we were forced to backtrack down the mountain via Lourdes due to a closed pass due to the risk of avalanches. We rejoined the fast sweepers of the N-141 towards Vielha, and then pressed on via the C-28 and C-13 via Sort, before rejoining the N-260 / N=145 to lead us into the bike-crazy country/state of Andorra. The N-260 from Sort to La Seu d'Urgell, then N-145 into Andorra was a magical series of tight and twisty ribboned tarmac that you only ever see in bike adventure/touring brochures. This was the real deal! The late afternoon heat was as relentless as the neverending turns and switchbacks demanded serious muscling of the long-wheelbased Ducati at pace. The combination of a 20kg 30L backpack + rider + sustained edge-to-edge riding took its toll on the Michelin Pilot Power 3s that had just been fitted to the Ducati 4 days earlier. The tyres eventually overheated and started to go off towards the end, and turn in felt them just gradually sliding away at every entry. To be fair, the constant number of tight turns taken at speed, fully laden, over hours of riding, was going to be a push for any tyre.
By the time we rolled into Andorra, our core temps were probably about 2 degrees south of the sun, yet our hearts and minds totally buzzed on adrenaline afterburners. We were like red hot pokers being doused as we plunged into the hotel swimming pool. We couldn't stop laughing, the cervezas flowed, and to little surprise... the GSXR had melted it's K3 Racetec and the MV also needed new tyres.
Day 5 - the Monster
A quick shot of Diclofenac and Ibuprofen kept small aches at bay, although it seemed like we were pass 'hump day' and the body laughed at daily 300 miles of sinuous mountain passes. Well it would need to. Day 5 was at least 309 miles according to TomTom (excluding the 20% tax of detours and 'oh-look at this cool route...', etc).
The morning in Andorra was spent getting new tyres fitted to the GSXR and MV. As an asides, I can firmly attest by now that the Michelin Pilot Power 3s were superb on the 1098R and were wearing well despite 900 miles of hard use at speed and in high temps. The Tuono wore new Diablo Rosso IIs (plus dog hair), and they were also wearing well offering plenty of grip for exuberant riding.
We eventually rolled out of Andorra near lunchtime, heading northeast towards El Pas de la Casa, before taking the N320/N20 towards Puigcerda. From Puigcerda we would join the N260/N152 and ride this beautiful rollercoaster through La Molina to Ripoll. Some may recognise the N152 as it is the very road Top Gear infamously declared their favourite test track. Trust me - it is STUNNING.
From Ripoll, we cut west and joined the GI-401/B-402 to Guardiola de Bergueda via La Pobla de Lillet. The road here was not the smoothest tarmac, but it was like a slightly fractured shell-gripped road all the way. On the big superbikes, we attacked this road and it was just massive fun. Taking the C-16 up to the immense Cadi Tunnel allowed us to cool off as we cruised through the stunning tunnel, before rejoining the N-260 west, this time in the opposite direction we had taken it the day before heading into Andorra. We would continue along the N-260 for another 200 miles
Let it be said now, that the N-260 must rank as one of the greatest roads biking ever. No matter your dislike of ferries, it alone is worth making the journey to ride. From Puigcerda heading west to Sort, to La Pobla de Segur then to El Pont de Suert and Campo and Ainsa. The stretch towards Campo from El Pont de Suert was perhaps the finest biking roads of the entire week. Flowing ribboned tarmac, especially the section along the Rio Esera river from Castejon de Sos - you roll on and off the throttle, adrenaline pumping between blind corners along the armco and dropoff to the river, within the steep rock lined valleys. E P I C. I could ride that stretch all day every day.
The final stretch of Day 5 would see us head north via the A-138/D-172 to the ski resort of Saint-Lary-Soulan. For the first time in the week, as we headed for the peak over the border, rain fell and temps dropped to a chilly 9 degrees C. The final stretch to SLS was a challenge - we were riding amongst the clouds with nary any visibility, torrential rain made rivers down the tight and narrow approach roads to our destination. Where had the sun gone?! The blistering 30 degree weather of just earlier that day was a distant memory, and as we found the farmhouse B&B, we were glad to dismount our steeds and take shelter for the night. It had been our last day riding the Pyrenees, and copious amounts of Merlot, bread, and cheese concluded what had otherwise been a day few words could express.
Day 6 - British engineering at its finest
After 5 days of full on 300 mile-a-day mountainous riding, today was going to be a faster 200 mile cruise to Lord Foster's engineering masterpiece that had hosted countless magazine articles and Top Gear episodes.
The morning would not go without event, however, as one of the group came off on a tightening blind radius before an opposite turn across a tight bridge. It was a close call given the speeds, and thankfully damage was limited to a new sticker kit and a couple of ibuprofen for a few cracked ribs. Back to the roads, and fast dual carriageways and a couple of brief stints on the motorway gave the girls a chance to stretch their legs and give reprieve to a couple of aching knees and wrists amongst the group. We rolled into the chalet at the Millau on fire, and once again the swimming pool and cervezas cooled off the intensity. MaccyDs was in order after days of Spanish/French fayre, and drinks poolside gave the opportunity for some reflection on what had been a magnificent journey so far.
Day 7 - Sausages and wine: Figeac/Cahors/Toulouse --> north
Considered a small detour of twisty French, this was now part of our trip home. A chance to enjoy some riverside entertainment from Figeac to Cahors, before dropping down to Toulouse for the AutoTrain. The AutoTrain knew what they were doing with the bikes, and we boarded the overnight sleeper assured the bikes should have been OK.
Day 8 - All good things come to an end, Paris --> home
All good things come to an end as they say. It would have been rude to have not stopped via the Eiffel Tower for a quick couple shots, and of course a re-enactment of National Lampoon's European Vacation around the Arc de Triomphe until we had the assistance of the Gendarmes to park up for a quick shot.
7 Lessons learned:
1) If travelling in a group, get an intercom! Once set up, the Scalas we used were brilliant and a single charge lasted the entire riding day.
2) Kriega R30: without a doubt, the best backpack I have ever used, especially for biking. It carried everything for the whole week aboard the Ducati. Yes it was perhaps 20kg heavy, but the way it distributes weight meant my shoulders never once felt it at all. If you're not sure about bringing/leaving something, then leave it.
3) Add VAT to your planned mileage.. we unintentionally travelled an extra 15-20% every day on top of the routes planned by TomTom.
4) Michelin Pilot Power 3 tyres: probably the best road tyres I've used. They were absolutely superb in all conditions, offering loads of grip and plenty of feel for a road tyre. After 2k miles on the Ducati, they have dropped off the grip levels compared to when they were new, and they have worn superbly. Only another 1,500 miles in them though, although not bad considering I chew through Supercorsas every 1,000 miles.
5) Bring a large bottle of visor cleaner with a microfibre cloth. You will need it!
6) Goretex Pro Shell is just brilliant kit - both the leather version and also the textile version. Use it in all weathers without concern.
7) Finally, it would be remiss to not talk about how the 1098R faired on the trip. It was brilliant. Magnificent. And comfortable! Peeling through the many fast sweepers and bends, it was glorious. Thundering Termis, her 100ftlbs of torque fired her out of every bend with consummate ease - she was the perfect chariot. She didn't drink any oil, and she proved that a high strung homologation superbike is wasted sitting in a living room. They were born for these kinds of roadtrips. And dang, she still makes herself special in so many ways you never get tired of.
It's kinda cathartic writing this down, and there are loads more pics/videos I wish I could share but won't on PH. Big kudos to the guys on the trip for doing the mileage - it was a good effort covering 300 miles a day on superbikes in the mountains without a motorway in sight, but would I do it again? Hell yeah!! The Sequel is already being planned...
Thanks for reading and keep it shiny side up!
It was an innocuous conversation that kicked it off sometime last December on yet another cold and wet evening spent online instead of riding our pride and joys. Someone blurted out the kind of words petrolheads' ears go all Spock - "Pyrenees", "Alps", "no tolls", "Millau Viaduct". A virtual round of hands went up as to who wanted in on what was going to be a bucket list trip for a bunch of mid-life-crisis bikers who's previous idea of a 'road trip' was the weekend ride out to OnYerBike or somewhere equally salubrious.
And so a plan was hatched: an 8 day hoon with daily roads were identified, rest stops, attractions, and hotels proposed along the way. Road rules were simple: no motorways, no toll roads, and most of us were going to bring the most uncomfortable Italians to tarnish their 'garage queen' status. The ferry was suddenly paid for back in early January, and suddenly everyone went, "OMG, we're actually going!"
The 2,100 mile itinerary was approximately as follows:
Days 0/1: Home --> Plymouth --> Santander by ferry
Days 2 - 7: Route as per map
Day 7: Toulouse --> Paris by Autotrain, ride home from Paris.
Sadly the 8 soon became "The Magnificent 7" after one of us had his tour of Afghanistan extended (we salute you, Cardy). Months passed, and hardly a week was not spent discussing what to pack/do/prep - it is amazing how much thought needs to be made when your life needs to be packed into a 30L backpack. With just over a month to go, the "Magnificent 7" became the "Famous 5" - an MV F4 RR, Ducati 1098, Ducati 1098R, Aprilia Tuono R, and a GSXR Thou K6. Fast forward to departure weekend and despite weeks of mechanical prep, suddenly one of the Italian mistresses decided to throw a tantrum. Emergency help ensued on a late Saturday before departure on Sunday morning: coil packs replaced, and all seemed good again. Phew! Roll on Sunday morning, and we were like kids before Christmas waiting for Santa. Plymouth here we come, our berths onboard the Pont Aven to Santander were awaiting...
Day 0: Getting to Plymouth
It was an ominous start: the coil pack repaired Italian b
h (no longer the mistress) decided to throw another hissy fit en route to the ferry terminal. It was barely a few miles away from home when disaster struck. The hissy fit turned into an almighty inferno when the Ducati 1098 ignited whilst on the move - perhaps a riders worst nightmare other than an RTA. Luckily for her, she was unhurt and managed to escape after a van frantically waved her down with flames spewing from underneath. You can only imagine how Rosemary felt watching 6 months of waiting/dreaming go up in flames on the very morning en route to the ferry. And so the Famous 5 became the Fantastic 4, although truth be told we have remained the Famous 5 in spirit. And so 4 of us pressed on to Plymouth where we prepped for the sail ahead.
Day 1: Plymouth to Santander
The Pont Aven is great, and the crossing was smooth as silk, the hoards of bikers gave assurance that even if we virginal tourers hadn't a clue, at least others did! We took the option of an outside berth cabin, one step down from the already sold-out Commodore cabins. It was ace, and we got a great rest for the ride ahead.
Day 2: Santander -> San Sebastian
When we reached Santander, it all seemed bit of a mad rush. The TomTom had the route to San Sebastian, and as soon as we rolled off the ferry ramp, the adrenaline ensued. A couple of quick turns out of Santander, and it was clear Spanish drivers enjoyed their roads. Jostling along a brief stretch of two lane motorway for a couple of miles to get ourselves acclimatised, and we peeled off south into the mountainous areas of the Montana Oriental, Ojo Guarena, and Parque Natural Montes Obarenes-San Zadorni. O. M. G. I normally would never wish this upon anyone, but let me just say 'thank you' to the EU Commission for helping fund development of the Spanish roads to the economic detriment of its people. Trust me Spaniards: you are blessed. If not in wallet, at least in terms of the most heavenly tarmac there must be in the Western Hemisphere. You have much to be grateful for.
The first time I wound up the Ducati 1098R through 3rd, deep into 4th, and then settling into 5th along a constant radius turn off the motorway, half bum cheek off, helmet overlooking front wheel witnessing aerial hari-kiri by mother nature on the visor, is something no biker can ever get tired of. I love hanging off through Hawthorne and Dingle Dell, but this has it licked. The roads were immediately sinuous and yelps of joyous expletives lollered over the Scala intercoms. We must have been 50 miles in before our first break when we jumped off the bikes beaming.
The rollercoaster continued, and we eventually rolled into San Sebastian staying at the 5* Hotel Londres right on the beach. Bikes were parked securely, and needless to say, night time Pintxos and cervezas flowed that night in San Seb. This trip reminded me of Gap year renewed, just 20 years later. Hola Espagne!
Heading into the mountains, it was a daily torrent of just awe, wonder, and amazement. Few words described the brilliant roads when attacked on the most unlikely of 'touring bikes'. The superbikes loved these environments: they were fast, and they had an insatiable appetite for every sinuous curve and bend - although they extracted Herculean efforts by everyone. The Tuono looked like the most suitable for the really tight corners and hairpins - wide sit up renthal-like bars allowed it to be tipped in with ease, although the Ducati/GSXR/MV had the legs and comfort on the fast and flowing bends at anything over 120 leptons. Tourers? Pah!
Day 3: San Sebastian --> Bielle, via Jaca
Day 3 saw us head inland from San Sebastian towards the north western Pyrenees, crossing over from Oloron-Sainte-Marie to Jaca via the N-134/N-330. From Jaca, we turned the corner along the N-260a via Torla/Biescas and back over towards Laruns and where we stayed for night 2 at Bielle.
This route was not without incident, however. I was leading the pack at a rate of knots, with us yabbering away on the Scalas, when I suddenly heard, "watch out for the dog! DOG!". The Scala then went silent. My heart was pounding as I pulled over and saw no headlights behind me. Last time I went 'dog!', I ended up in hospital for 8 days - and this time I feared the worst had happened to one of my mates. Quick U-turn, and as I arrived at the scene, thankfully everyone was walking around and no bikes were on their side. A large Pyrenean mountain dog had decided to play a game of chicken with the Tuono. The Ape had lost its front mudguard and some fairings as it T-boned the dog at speed and somehow, miraculously, my mate stayed upright on the big v-twin. The dog was walking although clearly in some pain. Surprisingly, the farmer who owned the dog just shrugged his shoulders and didn't seem to care about either the dog or the damage to the bike. The Aprilia was still running fine and only sustained aesthetic damage, and so we decided to continue on.
Day 4: the heart of the Pyrenees
Day 4 sent us across the heart of the Pyrenees and we detoured to see Gavarnie Falls, the tallest waterfall in France. Gavarnie itself is a popular ski resort and hiking town, and we headed for the top of the resort where the views reminded us of why trips like these were a necessary antidote to urban life. Temps in the mountains were a perfect 15-25 celsius, and the sun was beaming! Could it get any better than this?!
After heading for Aragnouet via the mountain passes, we were forced to backtrack down the mountain via Lourdes due to a closed pass due to the risk of avalanches. We rejoined the fast sweepers of the N-141 towards Vielha, and then pressed on via the C-28 and C-13 via Sort, before rejoining the N-260 / N=145 to lead us into the bike-crazy country/state of Andorra. The N-260 from Sort to La Seu d'Urgell, then N-145 into Andorra was a magical series of tight and twisty ribboned tarmac that you only ever see in bike adventure/touring brochures. This was the real deal! The late afternoon heat was as relentless as the neverending turns and switchbacks demanded serious muscling of the long-wheelbased Ducati at pace. The combination of a 20kg 30L backpack + rider + sustained edge-to-edge riding took its toll on the Michelin Pilot Power 3s that had just been fitted to the Ducati 4 days earlier. The tyres eventually overheated and started to go off towards the end, and turn in felt them just gradually sliding away at every entry. To be fair, the constant number of tight turns taken at speed, fully laden, over hours of riding, was going to be a push for any tyre.
By the time we rolled into Andorra, our core temps were probably about 2 degrees south of the sun, yet our hearts and minds totally buzzed on adrenaline afterburners. We were like red hot pokers being doused as we plunged into the hotel swimming pool. We couldn't stop laughing, the cervezas flowed, and to little surprise... the GSXR had melted it's K3 Racetec and the MV also needed new tyres.
Day 5 - the Monster
A quick shot of Diclofenac and Ibuprofen kept small aches at bay, although it seemed like we were pass 'hump day' and the body laughed at daily 300 miles of sinuous mountain passes. Well it would need to. Day 5 was at least 309 miles according to TomTom (excluding the 20% tax of detours and 'oh-look at this cool route...', etc).
The morning in Andorra was spent getting new tyres fitted to the GSXR and MV. As an asides, I can firmly attest by now that the Michelin Pilot Power 3s were superb on the 1098R and were wearing well despite 900 miles of hard use at speed and in high temps. The Tuono wore new Diablo Rosso IIs (plus dog hair), and they were also wearing well offering plenty of grip for exuberant riding.
We eventually rolled out of Andorra near lunchtime, heading northeast towards El Pas de la Casa, before taking the N320/N20 towards Puigcerda. From Puigcerda we would join the N260/N152 and ride this beautiful rollercoaster through La Molina to Ripoll. Some may recognise the N152 as it is the very road Top Gear infamously declared their favourite test track. Trust me - it is STUNNING.
From Ripoll, we cut west and joined the GI-401/B-402 to Guardiola de Bergueda via La Pobla de Lillet. The road here was not the smoothest tarmac, but it was like a slightly fractured shell-gripped road all the way. On the big superbikes, we attacked this road and it was just massive fun. Taking the C-16 up to the immense Cadi Tunnel allowed us to cool off as we cruised through the stunning tunnel, before rejoining the N-260 west, this time in the opposite direction we had taken it the day before heading into Andorra. We would continue along the N-260 for another 200 miles
Let it be said now, that the N-260 must rank as one of the greatest roads biking ever. No matter your dislike of ferries, it alone is worth making the journey to ride. From Puigcerda heading west to Sort, to La Pobla de Segur then to El Pont de Suert and Campo and Ainsa. The stretch towards Campo from El Pont de Suert was perhaps the finest biking roads of the entire week. Flowing ribboned tarmac, especially the section along the Rio Esera river from Castejon de Sos - you roll on and off the throttle, adrenaline pumping between blind corners along the armco and dropoff to the river, within the steep rock lined valleys. E P I C. I could ride that stretch all day every day.
The final stretch of Day 5 would see us head north via the A-138/D-172 to the ski resort of Saint-Lary-Soulan. For the first time in the week, as we headed for the peak over the border, rain fell and temps dropped to a chilly 9 degrees C. The final stretch to SLS was a challenge - we were riding amongst the clouds with nary any visibility, torrential rain made rivers down the tight and narrow approach roads to our destination. Where had the sun gone?! The blistering 30 degree weather of just earlier that day was a distant memory, and as we found the farmhouse B&B, we were glad to dismount our steeds and take shelter for the night. It had been our last day riding the Pyrenees, and copious amounts of Merlot, bread, and cheese concluded what had otherwise been a day few words could express.
Day 6 - British engineering at its finest
After 5 days of full on 300 mile-a-day mountainous riding, today was going to be a faster 200 mile cruise to Lord Foster's engineering masterpiece that had hosted countless magazine articles and Top Gear episodes.
The morning would not go without event, however, as one of the group came off on a tightening blind radius before an opposite turn across a tight bridge. It was a close call given the speeds, and thankfully damage was limited to a new sticker kit and a couple of ibuprofen for a few cracked ribs. Back to the roads, and fast dual carriageways and a couple of brief stints on the motorway gave the girls a chance to stretch their legs and give reprieve to a couple of aching knees and wrists amongst the group. We rolled into the chalet at the Millau on fire, and once again the swimming pool and cervezas cooled off the intensity. MaccyDs was in order after days of Spanish/French fayre, and drinks poolside gave the opportunity for some reflection on what had been a magnificent journey so far.
Day 7 - Sausages and wine: Figeac/Cahors/Toulouse --> north
Considered a small detour of twisty French, this was now part of our trip home. A chance to enjoy some riverside entertainment from Figeac to Cahors, before dropping down to Toulouse for the AutoTrain. The AutoTrain knew what they were doing with the bikes, and we boarded the overnight sleeper assured the bikes should have been OK.
Day 8 - All good things come to an end, Paris --> home
All good things come to an end as they say. It would have been rude to have not stopped via the Eiffel Tower for a quick couple shots, and of course a re-enactment of National Lampoon's European Vacation around the Arc de Triomphe until we had the assistance of the Gendarmes to park up for a quick shot.
7 Lessons learned:
1) If travelling in a group, get an intercom! Once set up, the Scalas we used were brilliant and a single charge lasted the entire riding day.
2) Kriega R30: without a doubt, the best backpack I have ever used, especially for biking. It carried everything for the whole week aboard the Ducati. Yes it was perhaps 20kg heavy, but the way it distributes weight meant my shoulders never once felt it at all. If you're not sure about bringing/leaving something, then leave it.
3) Add VAT to your planned mileage.. we unintentionally travelled an extra 15-20% every day on top of the routes planned by TomTom.
4) Michelin Pilot Power 3 tyres: probably the best road tyres I've used. They were absolutely superb in all conditions, offering loads of grip and plenty of feel for a road tyre. After 2k miles on the Ducati, they have dropped off the grip levels compared to when they were new, and they have worn superbly. Only another 1,500 miles in them though, although not bad considering I chew through Supercorsas every 1,000 miles.
5) Bring a large bottle of visor cleaner with a microfibre cloth. You will need it!
6) Goretex Pro Shell is just brilliant kit - both the leather version and also the textile version. Use it in all weathers without concern.
7) Finally, it would be remiss to not talk about how the 1098R faired on the trip. It was brilliant. Magnificent. And comfortable! Peeling through the many fast sweepers and bends, it was glorious. Thundering Termis, her 100ftlbs of torque fired her out of every bend with consummate ease - she was the perfect chariot. She didn't drink any oil, and she proved that a high strung homologation superbike is wasted sitting in a living room. They were born for these kinds of roadtrips. And dang, she still makes herself special in so many ways you never get tired of.
It's kinda cathartic writing this down, and there are loads more pics/videos I wish I could share but won't on PH. Big kudos to the guys on the trip for doing the mileage - it was a good effort covering 300 miles a day on superbikes in the mountains without a motorway in sight, but would I do it again? Hell yeah!! The Sequel is already being planned...
Thanks for reading and keep it shiny side up!
ZesPak said:
Brilliant pics and write-up, undoubtedly an unforgettable experience!
That pic of the Duc does look like it came from a horror show though
properly fked!
Cheers, and that Duc is/was That pic of the Duc does look like it came from a horror show though
properly fked!
Tinz said:
Love reading these, need to get myself over to spain for next years road trip.
poo at Paul's said:
I want to see a pic of the sort of chick that rides a 1098! Never mind was planning a trip like that. Crying shame for her.
That 1098 had done some proper mileage and the owner is a great rider too. She will almost certainly make the Sequel and gets the honorary invite for sure!Charlie Foxtrot said:
Dead Jealous. That trip looked totes amazeballs. Some cracking pictures. And I don't care how working class it is, I love that Rizzla Suzuki.
The trip was everything plus more that we could imagine. We picked decent 3-5* accomodation at every venue (apart from the sleeper train!), and it make a big difference I think in getting enough rest. That Rizla is pretty special - also because I was the previous owner! It was kinda strange - like riding with my old girlfriend throughout the whole trip 
redblade said:
Great write up...thanks for sharing. You've saved me some time looking at where to head once I'm off the ferry at Santander! Great pics and feel for the owner of the destroyed Duc!
TomTom was invaluable on the trip! Just keep adding the waypoints you want to pass through, and it really takes away the angst of planning. I used the iPhone version all the way - you don't need the dedicated bike version imho.bass gt3 said:
Fantastic!!
Not tht im jealous at all, you b'stard!!
As for the singed 1098, heartbraking.
However, ask nicely and i'll tell you how to put that motor into a 748 frame!!
Not tht im jealous at all, you b'stard!!
As for the singed 1098, heartbraking.
However, ask nicely and i'll tell you how to put that motor into a 748 frame!!
Indeed, I've heard that the 1098 might be replaced with an 1198! That motor is proper fooked - definitely not salvageable as I understand that it went bang when everything ignited backwards down the exhaust into the engine...Mr OCD said:
Epic write up... looks like you all had a good time (mostly) ... thanks for sharing
Once on the ferry, everything was epic. The 1098 RIP is an excuse for our sequel 
Fantastic write up and attention to detail. Really got me buzzed up just reading that. Some great advice and really well documented. Now cannot wait for my next Euro trip with LeMans already booked. Gassing Station | Biker Banter | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff