Repairable? Or am I looking for a donor body?

[440Interceptor]

Thanks Adam, yes agree that looks like the next step.

The nose on Ebay is from a '86 350i vs my '84 280i. Anyone know if it will fit?

[440Interceptor]

First step, check chassis for straightness. I am going to get the car brought to my home and I have a double garage to work in. Need to take the body off, but can anyone check my approach please? I don't have a hoist. My garage has 2 sets of brick pillars down each side wall, on top of which (in the roof space) are two steel 'I' beams running the width of the garage (6m). Thinking I will buy two blocks and tackle, attach one to each beam, put the car on axle stands and after disconnecting everything (sounds easy if you say it fast... I need a 100 point itemised list!), lift the body off.

Yes?

[adam quantrill]

I think this will be possible - boot and bonnet off, lift through the boot holes and lash at the front to the beam just behind the rad. Use spreaders at each point.

[KKson]

440Interceptor said:

First step, check chassis for straightness. I am going to get the car brought to my home and I have a double garage to work in. Need to take the body off, but can anyone check my approach please? I don't have a hoist. My garage has 2 sets of brick pillars down each side wall, on top of which (in the roof space) are two steel 'I' beams running the width of the garage (6m). Thinking I will buy two blocks and tackle, attach one to each beam, put the car on axle stands and after disconnecting everything (sounds easy if you say it fast... I need a 100 point itemised list!), lift the body off.

Yes?

What size I beams are they? If they are 4" or more then they should be fine. Good luck.

[440Interceptor]

Thanks, I beams are 175mm x 100mm (7x4) I think they'll do.

[KKson]

Oh yes. I've got a similar beam holding up 3 tonnes of brick wall and roof trusses. Should be more than adequate.

[440Interceptor]

Reckon so Keith!

Here she is back on her own wheels for the first time since 2005. Interior has weathered the years better than I have...

[440Interceptor]

[440Interceptor]

Progress! The car is now at my place. Now where did I see that list of what needs disconnecting before I lift the body off?? Anyone??

[440Interceptor]

Found this on the general forum. Most of it is close to what I've found with the 280i.



: Thanks to TASMINDEVIL (400SE) for posting.

Starting at the back
2 x along the rear of the chassis behind the diff

Each side has
2 x just in front of the rear wheel arch
1 x seat belt bolts on the centre transmission tunnel
2 x each side, rear and front of the main chassis mounting plates inside the outriggers
1 x inside in the foot well next to the transmission tunnel
2 x small bolts inside the engine bay next to the front inner wheel arch
2 x in front of the radiator

Plus the usual;
Steering
Brake/Clutch pipes
Earth straps (Front/Rear)
Handbrake
Gearbox reverse switch etc etc

Sills were riveted and glued with silastic. Knife/hacksaw blade works well.

[440Interceptor]

Okay, sills are off, and all body bolts are out I hope..). I've had a good look for any more because it appears there are none between the foot well bolts and the two in front of the radiator. I would have thought there would be some in line with the front wheels, but maybe not.

I do have a few questions for the more experienced/knowledgeable...

1. Clutch is cable type, which end do I disconnect and how please?
2. Fuel line: Two fuel lines come through the passenger side wheelarch into the fuel injection system. Where do I disconnect?
3. Brakes: Do I have to bleed them first and where do I disconnect?

Many thanks, Toby

[B@man]

Not sure I'm 100% helpful on this, as I've only removed 400SE body.

1. As its a ford box the cable should disconnect at the release arm end, either by a threaded adjustment rod (manual adjustment) or some form of fixed cable end that slides out of a teardrop shape hole (auto adjustment).
2. Fuel lines, on the 400 the fuel lines both run down along the sill tube, and are clipped to the body in the front wheel arch rear sill but cable tied along the chassis, I'd remove the lines completely before you start lifting.
2. Brake lines are attached to the chassis, you can disconnect at the master cylinder and rear brake inertia valve and just bend them clear of the body, I bunged the holes up in the master cylinder using some old brake unions with the pipe squashed over. It may be worth replacing these while the body if off anyway.

Good luck !

[440Interceptor]

Thanks Simon, clutch, engine bay fuel lines, and handbrake done. Brakes, steering and rear fuel to go.

[440Interceptor]

adam quantrill said:

I think this will be possible - boot and bonnet off, lift through the boot holes and lash at the front to the beam just behind the rad. Use spreaders at each point.

Adam, pardon my ignorance but what are spreaders? Cheers.

[adam quantrill]

Stout bits of wood - 3x4 or 4x4, or steel channel or box section, to spread the load across the fibreglass as far as possible..

I'd drill them to match the holes (at the back) and pass the rope right through the boot, the spreader, and back through the other hole. At the front just drill them a few feet apart and pass the rope under that front crossmember.

[440Interceptor]

OK thanks. Yep, the rear will be no problem, but at the front end, the crossmember is split from the accident, and won't take the weight. looks like I need to go back to the wheel arches, maybe a loop around each.

[adam quantrill]

Are you going to chop the tub and glass on a new front end? In which case the common place to do this is the narrowest part of the wheelarch (top of the curve). So everything in front of this point is effectively scrap, so drill away and put packing wood underneath to stop the ropes ripping through.

P.S. A Mazza and a Wedge - you're a glutton for punishment! ;^)

[440Interceptor]

Thanks Adam, yeah, the Interceptor replaced the TVR, then the 3200GT replaced the Interceptor. So far the Jensen has cost the most, but I've only had the Maserati for 2 years and it's catching up fast... The beauty though, is that as the Maserati is so quick , I'm not bothered about making the 280 go any faster than it did when it was new. And hopefully I can keep at least one of them working at any given time. Just want it back on the road and I have this odd sense that its my duty to get it there, seeing as I took it off.

Yes, talking to Trevor Bee about a new front end plus bumpers, spoiler etc.

Steering, clutch and fuel disconnected now, (except the 6 small hose lines from the fuel injection unit that go to the engine, but I'll figure those out or just cut them as I'm probably due some new hose.)

I have block & tackle front and rear ready to go so just need to make the spreader and whatever I use for the front.

[Wedg1e]

440Interceptor said:

Steering, clutch and fuel disconnected now, (except the 6 small hose lines from the fuel injection unit that go to the engine, but I'll figure those out or just cut them as I'm probably due some new hose.)

Those rigid lines should just unbolt from the top of the fuel regulator: 6 go directly to the injectors and (on UK cars at least) two more go to the warm-up regulator at the top front of the inlet manifold.
I wouldn't cut them if they're still intact; you'll probably find they're as rare as an honest politician

[440Interceptor]

Sage advice Ian. The outer layer is split on some of them though. Where might one find an honest politician?