Detailing for a complete novice?
Discussion
I've had my black Renault Clio for little over a year now and it's starting to look a little worse than when I got it. It's got a load of swirl marks on different panels, the plastic trim pieces are fading turning more grey than black and it's got a few light scratches from people brushing past it, leaning against it etc..
I understand to not use a sponge and the two bucket method but that's about it. I've tried washing it with wash and wax type shampoos but it just leaves white spots regardless of the time I spend and the gallons of water I use to wash it off.
I'm aiming to get rid of the swirl marks if possible but at least make them a little less visible, also to darken the colour of the fading plastics.
I own a machine polisher (picture a monkey with a machine gun), a few buckets and that's about it. I think I need a lambs wool mitt to stop further swirls and some shampoo that will get rid of existing wax and dirt. What consumables would I need?
I don't understand machine polishers, clay baring? Or if the same machine can be used to apply the wax because I don't have a full 8 hours to spend applying with a small cloth.
Most of all I don't want to do any damage to the paint work.
What would be the list of steps from washing to polishing and waxing? Any tips that would make the paint look that little but better would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers, Richard
May I just add I don't want to be spending £60 on a bottle of polish and wax
I understand to not use a sponge and the two bucket method but that's about it. I've tried washing it with wash and wax type shampoos but it just leaves white spots regardless of the time I spend and the gallons of water I use to wash it off.
I'm aiming to get rid of the swirl marks if possible but at least make them a little less visible, also to darken the colour of the fading plastics.
I own a machine polisher (picture a monkey with a machine gun), a few buckets and that's about it. I think I need a lambs wool mitt to stop further swirls and some shampoo that will get rid of existing wax and dirt. What consumables would I need?
I don't understand machine polishers, clay baring? Or if the same machine can be used to apply the wax because I don't have a full 8 hours to spend applying with a small cloth.
Most of all I don't want to do any damage to the paint work.
What would be the list of steps from washing to polishing and waxing? Any tips that would make the paint look that little but better would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers, Richard
May I just add I don't want to be spending £60 on a bottle of polish and wax
Edited by dci on Wednesday 21st August 17:18
There are several detailing websites that give you advice and information relating to which products to use for what.
Detailing World being one of them but there are others.
You don't need to spend hundreds on wax. Perfectly good results can be achieved using, for example, Autoglym HD polish/wax.
If you have a machine polisher, your next step should be to head to your local scrap yard to buy a couple of old panels to practise on. DO NOT practice on your own car.
Detailing World being one of them but there are others.
You don't need to spend hundreds on wax. Perfectly good results can be achieved using, for example, Autoglym HD polish/wax.
If you have a machine polisher, your next step should be to head to your local scrap yard to buy a couple of old panels to practise on. DO NOT practice on your own car.
RichB said:
Generally speaking, and I'm no experts you will be told to:
- Wash it with a lambs wool mitt and two buckets
- Clay bar it with some detailing spray as lubricant
- Polish it with your machine, using light grade polish and if not successful use something more coarse
- Wax it
Is it possible to damage the paint? Is it possible to get a good finish using sub £10 products from half odds or am I going for autoglym products? Will a clay bar damage the paint if used incorrectly? I'm under the impression that I should rub a clay bar back and forth in straight lines with water for a lubricant? Also what grade clay? Do I need a few bars of varying grades and go from roughest to smoothest or just use one grade? - Wash it with a lambs wool mitt and two buckets
- Clay bar it with some detailing spray as lubricant
- Polish it with your machine, using light grade polish and if not successful use something more coarse
- Wax it
As I said I'm no expert but I would start with the softest grade clay and work up only if necessary rather than the other way. I suggested detailing spray as lube simply because it's in a convenient spray. The idea of the clay bar is to get rid of surface contaminants and leave a perfectly smooth finish. You will still need to polish to remove the swirls and wax.
Do take a look in here I'm sure there's a novice's guide http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/
Do take a look in here I'm sure there's a novice's guide http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/
I only use one grade of clay.
If you want something that will remove existing wax washing up liquid is good - but you need to top up wax after.
The process I use is:
Rinse
Wash - 2 bucket method
Decontaminate - Remove tar spots etc, maybe not such an issue on your black car
Clay
Polish
Wax
I use the Auto Finesse Range a bit more expensive than Autoglym etc, but really works well. Triple is a great product that polishes swirls out, cleans paint and adds a layer of wax.
Polished Bliss is a good place to order stuff from and they have some good how to guides too.
If you want something that will remove existing wax washing up liquid is good - but you need to top up wax after.
The process I use is:
Rinse
Wash - 2 bucket method
Decontaminate - Remove tar spots etc, maybe not such an issue on your black car
Clay
Polish
Wax
I use the Auto Finesse Range a bit more expensive than Autoglym etc, but really works well. Triple is a great product that polishes swirls out, cleans paint and adds a layer of wax.
Polished Bliss is a good place to order stuff from and they have some good how to guides too.
The white marks on the paintwork are from dried water, you should always dry the car off with a drying towel( a chamei leather will mark the paintwork), you can get them from Asda for a few quid and gently pat the bodywork dry. It does take time,but it is worth it in the long run.
As to how to clean it, it depends on how far you want to go but a good start would be as follows
Spray an All Purpose Cleaner onto the car and let dwell for 2 minutes
Rinse off
Snow Foam the car and leave for 5 minutes
Rinse off
Clay the car
Rinse it again
Dry it off and move out of direct sunlight.
If you have a machine polisher this is the stage to polish the swirls out
Then use a panel wipe to remove any oils
Wax.
As for your wheels, a good cleaner is Hot Wheels Wonder Wheels
The process can be far more intense than that, but that is a good list to be getting on with and will see some good results.
You only need to clay the car once a year or so and a decent wax should last 2 - 3 months before needing re-applying so cuts down on the time needed.
As to how to clean it, it depends on how far you want to go but a good start would be as follows
Spray an All Purpose Cleaner onto the car and let dwell for 2 minutes
Rinse off
Snow Foam the car and leave for 5 minutes
Rinse off
Clay the car
Rinse it again
Dry it off and move out of direct sunlight.
If you have a machine polisher this is the stage to polish the swirls out
Then use a panel wipe to remove any oils
Wax.
As for your wheels, a good cleaner is Hot Wheels Wonder Wheels
The process can be far more intense than that, but that is a good list to be getting on with and will see some good results.
You only need to clay the car once a year or so and a decent wax should last 2 - 3 months before needing re-applying so cuts down on the time needed.
I would use the following for a 'complete' wash/ wax for a beginner with 'light' swirls.
I don't think there is any danger of ruining the paint by doing this this method especially if you already have swirls in your paint. Correcting the paint with a machine may lead to some issues.
1) wash using two bucket method. Do NOT use washing up liquid as this has a high salt content which makes your dishes squeaky but your car rusty.
2) Clay the car. No real risks with this step. Just make sure you recycle the clay often if there is any grit collected.
3) Polish. I have used autoglym super resin polish on black cars and it willcover a multitude of sins. It seems to 'fill' light swirling.
4) Wax - I have tried cheap and mid range waxes and cannot really tell the difference in finish. I am using poorboys stuff at the moment which does seem to give some logevity compared to others I have used.
I am a bit of a novice and other may point out issues with my technique, but it works well for me. After spending about three hours doing that (plus interior, windows and wheels) I find I can quickly wash and use a speed wax every other week and it comes up great again.
Mike
I don't think there is any danger of ruining the paint by doing this this method especially if you already have swirls in your paint. Correcting the paint with a machine may lead to some issues.
1) wash using two bucket method. Do NOT use washing up liquid as this has a high salt content which makes your dishes squeaky but your car rusty.
2) Clay the car. No real risks with this step. Just make sure you recycle the clay often if there is any grit collected.
3) Polish. I have used autoglym super resin polish on black cars and it willcover a multitude of sins. It seems to 'fill' light swirling.
4) Wax - I have tried cheap and mid range waxes and cannot really tell the difference in finish. I am using poorboys stuff at the moment which does seem to give some logevity compared to others I have used.
I am a bit of a novice and other may point out issues with my technique, but it works well for me. After spending about three hours doing that (plus interior, windows and wheels) I find I can quickly wash and use a speed wax every other week and it comes up great again.
Mike
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