Saab 9-3 Aero (98-02) - opinions?
Discussion
As we've found ourselves (I say found, I was fully aware!!) with two RWD sports cars heading towards the winter, I said I wouldn't buy a third car again, but in terms or practiclity & my missus having something a bit easier to drive in the snow than the S2000, I can still see myself buying something cheap as a backup/pactical car.
Previously I have ran an 850 T5 for this task, which lead to a lovely 850R. After the Volvo's I had always had a soft spot for the other Swede's, often considering a 9-5 Aero estate. Anyway, I digress...
I actually really like the original 9-3 Aero, I just think the shape looks great, especially with the later front end. I've seen quite a cheap grey late model 5 door one close by and am considering it. I always used to overlook the 5 door version, but I actually quite like it now.
I was always told a 9-5 or 9-3ss would be much better in terms or handling abilities, my brother has a 9-3SS Aero, nice car, quick enough, quite a firm ride and seems to handle well - but doesn't look like a true Saab to me, and interior trim quality is not great.
So, going back to the original 9-3 Aero - is it really that bad on the handling front? If so, what does it need to make it acceptable - and how much will that likely cost?
Thanks for any advice
Previously I have ran an 850 T5 for this task, which lead to a lovely 850R. After the Volvo's I had always had a soft spot for the other Swede's, often considering a 9-5 Aero estate. Anyway, I digress...
I actually really like the original 9-3 Aero, I just think the shape looks great, especially with the later front end. I've seen quite a cheap grey late model 5 door one close by and am considering it. I always used to overlook the 5 door version, but I actually quite like it now.
I was always told a 9-5 or 9-3ss would be much better in terms or handling abilities, my brother has a 9-3SS Aero, nice car, quick enough, quite a firm ride and seems to handle well - but doesn't look like a true Saab to me, and interior trim quality is not great.
So, going back to the original 9-3 Aero - is it really that bad on the handling front? If so, what does it need to make it acceptable - and how much will that likely cost?
Thanks for any advice
I brought a 2002 93 Aero Hot last week. TBH I havent really driven it in anger yet but first impressions are good and its not as bad as I thought it was going to be.
Its the 205bhp version and torque steer isnt too bad ether.
Wasnt sure if it was this older shape or the newer one you were referring to but I will report back when I have had a proper hoon.
Its the 205bhp version and torque steer isnt too bad ether.
Wasnt sure if it was this older shape or the newer one you were referring to but I will report back when I have had a proper hoon.
depends how far you want to go but the "usual" mods are thicker rear ARB (or piggyback it), steering rack brace and then front subframe brace.
used rear ARB will be about £25 and then some change for some brackets to clamp to the original. rack brace is around £120. subframe brace varies depending on type - most people end up with the 6 point but there are 2 points available. got mine used so can't advise on price i'm afraid
replacing the rear hydraulic engine mounting with the diesel version and fitting a thicker front ARB are counter-productive. go on, ask me how i know that
sump drop, PCV upgrade and fully synthetic are essential
paul
used rear ARB will be about £25 and then some change for some brackets to clamp to the original. rack brace is around £120. subframe brace varies depending on type - most people end up with the 6 point but there are 2 points available. got mine used so can't advise on price i'm afraid
replacing the rear hydraulic engine mounting with the diesel version and fitting a thicker front ARB are counter-productive. go on, ask me how i know that
sump drop, PCV upgrade and fully synthetic are essential
paul
Edited by paul makin on Wednesday 25th September 17:53
depends how far you want to go but the "usual" mods are thicker rear ARB (or piggyback it), steering rack brace and then front subframe brace.
used rear ARB will be about £25 and then some change for some brackets to clamp to the original. rack brace is around £120. subframe brace varies depending on type - most people end up with the 6 point but there are 2 points available. got mine used so can't advise on price i'm afraid
replacing the rear hydraulic engine mounting with the diesel version and fitting a thicker front ARB are counter-productive. go on, ask me how i know that
sump drop, PCV upgrade and fully synthetic are essential
paul
used rear ARB will be about £25 and then some change for some brackets to clamp to the original. rack brace is around £120. subframe brace varies depending on type - most people end up with the 6 point but there are 2 points available. got mine used so can't advise on price i'm afraid
replacing the rear hydraulic engine mounting with the diesel version and fitting a thicker front ARB are counter-productive. go on, ask me how i know that
sump drop, PCV upgrade and fully synthetic are essential
paul
Edited by paul makin on Wednesday 25th September 17:55
They need a flair bit done to them to sort the handling, my 2p's worth...try and find one with the handling sorted and don't get sucked into if its stage 1/2/3 as the extra power can be released from these for not much cash at all. Suspensions expensive to sort though 
I had a 9-3 vert before this v6 and the handling is meant to be even worst than a tin top but wasn't as terrible as everyone made out to be
I spent around £2k on mine to sort the handling, with braces, bushes & suspension to upgrade it and freshen things up a bit. Tried to do it as cheap as possible mixing bits here and there to get the same effect as Abbotts VRK (Viggen Rescue Kit) but still pretty expensive, rough prices below-
PFS steering rack clamp £100 (100% get)
Ebay 6 point subframe brace £180 (can also get 2 point from Abbotts & 4 point from speed parts)
Powerflex Inner & Outer TCA Bushes £40 used (Try Neo Brothers or Larkspeed)
Abbott Racing Spherical bearing kit (£160)
^^^^ that's basically the same as Abbott VRK but saved around £150ish http://www.abbottracing.net/product.php?id_product...
Also fitted the following same time:
Bilstein B8 Dampers (Neo Brothers)
Powerflex bushes all round
Genuine Saab 22mm rear ARB (these hardly ever come up so lots of guys just piggy back the standard bar with another which works well)
Labour to fit all the above was around £650 mainly due to the bushes, and the 6 point brace was a bit of a pita to fit apparently, the car also came with Abbott springs so there's another £200 to shell out. I'd go for Eibach's though...
So definitely worth waiting for one that's had a fair bit of suspension work done already as there isn't much difference in price between a standard and modded car.
Also! 1998-2000 cars have the b204 engine with t5 management, later 2000-2003 cars have the b205 t7 engine.
Best way to check a 2000 car is open the bonnet, if the oil cap is dead centre its a t5 car, oil cap to the left its t7.
If your after decent power (350 - 500bhp) then go for a t5 car as the engine is a lot stronger and can make big numbers with bolt on parts. The t7 cars seem to max out around 320bhp to stay safe, and need either forged pistons or a b234 bottom end to make the higher numbers. Not everyone wants a 450-500bhp car though so might not bother you
Personally I'd go for a sorted 2002 aero and just keep it to stage 3 with a remap from noobtune....and get the sump dropped & cleaned plus fit the latest pcv kit....
I had a 9-3 vert before this v6 and the handling is meant to be even worst than a tin top but wasn't as terrible as everyone made out to be
I spent around £2k on mine to sort the handling, with braces, bushes & suspension to upgrade it and freshen things up a bit. Tried to do it as cheap as possible mixing bits here and there to get the same effect as Abbotts VRK (Viggen Rescue Kit) but still pretty expensive, rough prices below-PFS steering rack clamp £100 (100% get)
Ebay 6 point subframe brace £180 (can also get 2 point from Abbotts & 4 point from speed parts)
Powerflex Inner & Outer TCA Bushes £40 used (Try Neo Brothers or Larkspeed)
Abbott Racing Spherical bearing kit (£160)
^^^^ that's basically the same as Abbott VRK but saved around £150ish http://www.abbottracing.net/product.php?id_product...
Also fitted the following same time:
Bilstein B8 Dampers (Neo Brothers)
Powerflex bushes all round
Genuine Saab 22mm rear ARB (these hardly ever come up so lots of guys just piggy back the standard bar with another which works well)
Labour to fit all the above was around £650 mainly due to the bushes, and the 6 point brace was a bit of a pita to fit apparently, the car also came with Abbott springs so there's another £200 to shell out. I'd go for Eibach's though...
So definitely worth waiting for one that's had a fair bit of suspension work done already as there isn't much difference in price between a standard and modded car.
Also! 1998-2000 cars have the b204 engine with t5 management, later 2000-2003 cars have the b205 t7 engine.
Best way to check a 2000 car is open the bonnet, if the oil cap is dead centre its a t5 car, oil cap to the left its t7.
If your after decent power (350 - 500bhp) then go for a t5 car as the engine is a lot stronger and can make big numbers with bolt on parts. The t7 cars seem to max out around 320bhp to stay safe, and need either forged pistons or a b234 bottom end to make the higher numbers. Not everyone wants a 450-500bhp car though so might not bother you
Personally I'd go for a sorted 2002 aero and just keep it to stage 3 with a remap from noobtune....and get the sump dropped & cleaned plus fit the latest pcv kit....
Hmmm, it does sound like a bit of effort when pretty much any other hot Saab would be a better bet in the handling department out of the box. How did GM make such a flexy car!!??
Still, I do like them.
To be honest, any aero would get a look from me, so maybe I should stick to my original plan of 9k or 9-5. I'd even go for a c900 but with my recent 944 purchase I think I only have time for one modern classic at the mo!!
Still, I do like them.
To be honest, any aero would get a look from me, so maybe I should stick to my original plan of 9k or 9-5. I'd even go for a c900 but with my recent 944 purchase I think I only have time for one modern classic at the mo!!
I have a 2002 Aero Coupe, in metallic grey with black leather, I came across it quite by accident, and I have to say, I really like it.
It's a good looking car in an odd retro way, and a refreshing change from the usual German stuff.
Huge boot space!
Mine has steering rack brace, poly bushes, Koni adjustable dampers, Abbot springs and Viggen disks, etc., etc
It feels tight, handles well enough, torque-steer is 'interesting'
I haven't driven one without mods though.
I think they're going to become a bit of a modern classic....
(Shame I need an estate...)
It's a good looking car in an odd retro way, and a refreshing change from the usual German stuff.
Huge boot space!
Mine has steering rack brace, poly bushes, Koni adjustable dampers, Abbot springs and Viggen disks, etc., etc
It feels tight, handles well enough, torque-steer is 'interesting'
I haven't driven one without mods though.
I think they're going to become a bit of a modern classic....
(Shame I need an estate...)
Perhaps it's worth looking out for one that has had the basic bracing & suspension mods then. Still amazes me that GM could get it that wrong, especially for a 'performance' car.
Couple of other things, does the bulkhead cracking effect all models or did Saab revise anything to help prevent the problem on the later ones? Also, I've seen a couple with minor rust on rear arches, is this common? If so, is it cosmetic or do the inner arches rust as well?
Couple of other things, does the bulkhead cracking effect all models or did Saab revise anything to help prevent the problem on the later ones? Also, I've seen a couple with minor rust on rear arches, is this common? If so, is it cosmetic or do the inner arches rust as well?
I had a 51 plate Aero which I only parted with 3 months ago. Bulkhead cracking was a weak point on these due to the original steering rack clamp being made of something resembling jelly. The uprated clamp should go some way to sorting this as it allows a lot less flex in the rack, therefore less flex in the bulkhead. If the pedals feel like they're moving when you turn the wheel when stationary, it is likely a cracked bulkhead.
Otherwise, go for it, boot space was incredible, comfortable seats, well specced, and a nice turn of speed.
Otherwise, go for it, boot space was incredible, comfortable seats, well specced, and a nice turn of speed.
i had a yellow one. 1999 model 2 door.
stg one meant amazing spool.in first and 2nd gear in a straightline. cornering though was not its forte as its quite a narrow high car. i drove in it across europe as well as daily commute. boot space is massive i could fit 2 bikes without tsking wheels off
but i had the clutch go.. engine mount issues.. driveshaft issues. then headgasket went .then whole engine went at 160k miles
now i have 9.5 aero...better car...v fast..much faster than the 9.3 handles better..bigger interior
stg one meant amazing spool.in first and 2nd gear in a straightline. cornering though was not its forte as its quite a narrow high car. i drove in it across europe as well as daily commute. boot space is massive i could fit 2 bikes without tsking wheels off
but i had the clutch go.. engine mount issues.. driveshaft issues. then headgasket went .then whole engine went at 160k miles
now i have 9.5 aero...better car...v fast..much faster than the 9.3 handles better..bigger interior
Indeed, my 9-3 performed reasonably when I took it to the Cheddar Gorge, fairly swift but not the best in the bends. It was remapped by Abbott Racing so was fairly quick (and worryingly torque steer prone).
My 9-5 is better in the corners. Where the 9-3 would start to wash wide quite early, this seems to cling on more. It's surprisingly good for a big front wheel drive saloon! This is remapped to stage 3 (noobtune) and yes, it's rapid. It's had reactions ranging from "giggling" to "ohhhhhf
k". The mid range is where it performs
Of course if you want practicality, get the estate version
Edit: I just wanted an excuse to post a couple of pictures as well...
My 9-5 is better in the corners. Where the 9-3 would start to wash wide quite early, this seems to cling on more. It's surprisingly good for a big front wheel drive saloon! This is remapped to stage 3 (noobtune) and yes, it's rapid. It's had reactions ranging from "giggling" to "ohhhhhf
k". The mid range is where it performs Of course if you want practicality, get the estate version
Edit: I just wanted an excuse to post a couple of pictures as well...
I've had my 93 Aero for about a year. It's used everyday and has been 100% reliable.
The things that have needed attention:
- clutch- this was a weak point when i bought it. A new one was £700 fitted (genuine parts) by a Saab specialist
- tyres- seems tyre sensitive. It came with Nankang tyres, which i've had changed for Pirelli's which has made a lot of difference, especially in the wet. It still torque steers though...
Plans- steering brace and anti roll bar upgrade. And xenon headlights- as the standard ones are a bit weak.
Scrubs up alright though- though I would say that!
The things that have needed attention:
- clutch- this was a weak point when i bought it. A new one was £700 fitted (genuine parts) by a Saab specialist
- tyres- seems tyre sensitive. It came with Nankang tyres, which i've had changed for Pirelli's which has made a lot of difference, especially in the wet. It still torque steers though...
Plans- steering brace and anti roll bar upgrade. And xenon headlights- as the standard ones are a bit weak.
Scrubs up alright though- though I would say that!
Hallsey, I have had 7 SAABs, a 944 Turbo and a 968....
I had a 2001 9 3 Turbo that I bought as a cheap station car back in 2007 for £1500 that came with a dented NSR door (and still had it when I sold it!) but when I got it home I found that it had had the Viggen Rescue kit applied and was chipped to 230BHP....
...so I bought a Leather Interior on a pallet for £200 from eBay and bought a set of 17" wheels with Toyo Proxes fitted from Wheelbase for £450 (yes basically the retail price of the tyres at that time!)
so it went like stink and kinda handled...
When I changed it for the 944 Turbo, the Porker obviously handled better but didn't feel any quicker in a straight line.
I have done a deal with the missus and sold the Jaaag XK8 replacing it with a '99 9 3 'vert for the winter with the view that I will then replace it with another 944T/968 next year (but I can see me keeping the 9 3 to run alongside if it turns out a solid car)
For now we will do a bit of a 'Wheeler dealers' on it with my son (aged 11) to get the front end bushes and engine mounts sorted over the winter
Reader's Car entry here:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
So in summary, go for a 9 3 to run alongside the 944, it is an interesting little car, they are as cheap as chips and go like Greased Weasel sh*t whilst you grimly cling to the steering wheel grinning like a cheshire cat
I had a 2001 9 3 Turbo that I bought as a cheap station car back in 2007 for £1500 that came with a dented NSR door (and still had it when I sold it!) but when I got it home I found that it had had the Viggen Rescue kit applied and was chipped to 230BHP....
...so I bought a Leather Interior on a pallet for £200 from eBay and bought a set of 17" wheels with Toyo Proxes fitted from Wheelbase for £450 (yes basically the retail price of the tyres at that time!)
so it went like stink and kinda handled...
When I changed it for the 944 Turbo, the Porker obviously handled better but didn't feel any quicker in a straight line.
I have done a deal with the missus and sold the Jaaag XK8 replacing it with a '99 9 3 'vert for the winter with the view that I will then replace it with another 944T/968 next year (but I can see me keeping the 9 3 to run alongside if it turns out a solid car)
For now we will do a bit of a 'Wheeler dealers' on it with my son (aged 11) to get the front end bushes and engine mounts sorted over the winter
Reader's Car entry here:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
So in summary, go for a 9 3 to run alongside the 944, it is an interesting little car, they are as cheap as chips and go like Greased Weasel sh*t whilst you grimly cling to the steering wheel grinning like a cheshire cat
Well - it's an itch o'd like to scratch, but not sure if I'll get chance just yet - I'm more than likely going to go down the estate route.
FA - sounds good, I can imagine it was just as quick as your 944 in a straight line, although, did the 944 not have the legs on the 9-3 at higher speeds? You had a 220 Turbo, if I recall?
Dai - my brother has had a couple of 9-3 ss Aero's, they represent good value, but interior quality is poor imo.
FA - sounds good, I can imagine it was just as quick as your 944 in a straight line, although, did the 944 not have the legs on the 9-3 at higher speeds? You had a 220 Turbo, if I recall?
Dai - my brother has had a couple of 9-3 ss Aero's, they represent good value, but interior quality is poor imo.
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