Anyone know about alarms?
Discussion
Wiring mine up, Texecom Premier 48. Vaguely know what I'm doing, but need a few pointers:
PIRs have 8 wires, tamp x 2, alarm x 2, 12v, 0v, FTAband RLED. Have wired alarm x 2 to the zone, 12v and 0v to the power points, tamp for tamp. No idea what to do with FTA or RLED? Leave them or use them?
Tamp I am connecting in a big ring and connecting to the tamper in and out on the board?
Door sensors have 9 connections, they're a combined magnetic contact and kick sensor. Labelled tamp x 2, alarm x 2, 12v, 0v, all ok. Then latch and reed x2. No idea what I do with these? I assume that I connect reed and latch together in series as two sensors, but don't know where these go on the board? One of these is a pair of sensors on 1 zone, how do I wire them together?
Help!
PIRs have 8 wires, tamp x 2, alarm x 2, 12v, 0v, FTAband RLED. Have wired alarm x 2 to the zone, 12v and 0v to the power points, tamp for tamp. No idea what to do with FTA or RLED? Leave them or use them?
Tamp I am connecting in a big ring and connecting to the tamper in and out on the board?
Door sensors have 9 connections, they're a combined magnetic contact and kick sensor. Labelled tamp x 2, alarm x 2, 12v, 0v, all ok. Then latch and reed x2. No idea what I do with these? I assume that I connect reed and latch together in series as two sensors, but don't know where these go on the board? One of these is a pair of sensors on 1 zone, how do I wire them together?
Help!
paulrockliffe said:
Wiring mine up, Texecom Premier 48. Vaguely know what I'm doing, but need a few pointers:
PIRs have 8 wires, tamp x 2, alarm x 2, 12v, 0v, FTAband RLED. Have wired alarm x 2 to the zone, 12v and 0v to the power points, tamp for tamp. No idea what to do with FTA or RLED? Leave them or use them?
Tamp I am connecting in a big ring and connecting to the tamper in and out on the board?
Door sensors have 9 connections, they're a combined magnetic contact and kick sensor. Labelled tamp x 2, alarm x 2, 12v, 0v, all ok. Then latch and reed x2. No idea what I do with these? I assume that I connect reed and latch together in series as two sensors, but don't know where these go on the board? One of these is a pair of sensors on 1 zone, how do I wire them together?
Help!
It's been a while since ive done this but I'll try and help. FTA is for when connecting more than one PIR to a zone. RLED I think is for turning the LED on or off. If your wiring it as double pole then connect them in ring to the global tamper.PIRs have 8 wires, tamp x 2, alarm x 2, 12v, 0v, FTAband RLED. Have wired alarm x 2 to the zone, 12v and 0v to the power points, tamp for tamp. No idea what to do with FTA or RLED? Leave them or use them?
Tamp I am connecting in a big ring and connecting to the tamper in and out on the board?
Door sensors have 9 connections, they're a combined magnetic contact and kick sensor. Labelled tamp x 2, alarm x 2, 12v, 0v, all ok. Then latch and reed x2. No idea what I do with these? I assume that I connect reed and latch together in series as two sensors, but don't know where these go on the board? One of these is a pair of sensors on 1 zone, how do I wire them together?
Help!
As for the combined sensor and magnet I would think that alarm is one side reed is the door magnet. I would wire them as separate zones.
HTH
Dig you get an engineering manual with the panel? I only ask as texacom seem to have stopped issuing them with new premier 24 panels.
What make are the PIRs? do the instructions not say what the connections do, you can obviously use most makes of PIR with that panel.
If I was you though I would wire the tamper with the supplied resistors with the panel. That way you will see which zone has a tamper fault, its all in the engineering book (if you have one).
Why have you gone for a 48, its still only got 8 zones but can expand further, do you live in a 48 room house.
What make are the PIRs? do the instructions not say what the connections do, you can obviously use most makes of PIR with that panel.
If I was you though I would wire the tamper with the supplied resistors with the panel. That way you will see which zone has a tamper fault, its all in the engineering book (if you have one).
Why have you gone for a 48, its still only got 8 zones but can expand further, do you live in a 48 room house.
NH1 said:
Dig you get an engineering manual with the panel? I only ask as texacom seem to have stopped issuing them with new premier 24 panels.
What make are the PIRs? do the instructions not say what the connections do, you can obviously use most makes of PIR with that panel.
If I was you though I would wire the tamper with the supplied resistors with the panel. That way you will see which zone has a tamper fault, its all in the engineering book (if you have one).
Why have you gone for a 48, its still only got 8 zones but can expand further, do you live in a 48 room house.
I have the manual, it's on the internet so that's helping! Texecom PIRs, it sounds like I'm ok with them, don't need FTA or RLED, so just the tamper to wire up.What make are the PIRs? do the instructions not say what the connections do, you can obviously use most makes of PIR with that panel.
If I was you though I would wire the tamper with the supplied resistors with the panel. That way you will see which zone has a tamper fault, its all in the engineering book (if you have one).
Why have you gone for a 48, its still only got 8 zones but can expand further, do you live in a 48 room house.
The 48 lets me run an expander in the workshop so the one panel will do both buildings as independent systems, that's why I went for the 48. I can't remember exactly what the difference was, maybe the 24 doesn't have zones.
How do I wire the tamper the way you describe? Haven't had chance to read that bit of the manual yet.
Next question, I'm running 10 x 2 wire smoke detectors. Realised I needed to know which of the wires is the in and which is the out, so just spent the last few hours tracing a voltage around the house! Anyway, the manual shows how to wire the two wire circuit from the panel, but the detector instructions are quite a lot difference. Ie I need to wire to V In, V Out and 0 V. The detector has A and B Alarm Relay, No Connection, 0 V, 12V and Latch. How do I marry the two up?
Cheers
dav123a said:
It's been a while since ive done this but I'll try and help. FTA is for when connecting more than one PIR to a zone. RLED I think is for turning the LED on or off. If your wiring it as double pole then connect them in ring to the global tamper.
As for the combined sensor and magnet I would think that alarm is one side reed is the door magnet. I would wire them as separate zones.
HTH
Thanks, that makes sense I think. I don't need FTA. Do you mean to wire RLED to the global tamper?As for the combined sensor and magnet I would think that alarm is one side reed is the door magnet. I would wire them as separate zones.
HTH
How do I wire as separate zones? Alarm 1 and 2 to one zone and Reed 1 and 2 to the other? How do I then wire the second sensor from that one?
To wire with the resistors its kind of like this random diagram.
Depending on which contacts have a fault, alarm/tamper the panel will get a different resistance on that zone and knows what has happened, much easier to trace a tamper fault.
Having said that I dont see much need for tamper circuits in domestic PIRs anyway, a bell box or keypad maybe.
I've just had a quick google and FTA is first to alarm so Im guessing its a bit like viper vibration sensors when there is a few of them on the same zone. The one that triggers stays lit red until the power is removed via a switched 12V from the panel when it is reset so you can identify which sensor has tripped.
Rled is I think to power a remote LED away from the sensor when it is hidden but I might be wrong on that one.
Both the premier 24 and 48 only have 8 onboard zones but the 24 can be expanded upto 24 zones and the 48 up to 48 obviously.
You mention the smoke alarms, are they wired to the alarm panel because as you describe them it sounds a lot like a 24V dedicated fire alarm panel. Usually on these you need the in and out voltage on different terminals because if you remove a smoke head the loop has top remain intact (via a diode) in case another sensor detects a real fire or a break glass is operated.
Depending on which contacts have a fault, alarm/tamper the panel will get a different resistance on that zone and knows what has happened, much easier to trace a tamper fault.
Having said that I dont see much need for tamper circuits in domestic PIRs anyway, a bell box or keypad maybe.
I've just had a quick google and FTA is first to alarm so Im guessing its a bit like viper vibration sensors when there is a few of them on the same zone. The one that triggers stays lit red until the power is removed via a switched 12V from the panel when it is reset so you can identify which sensor has tripped.
Rled is I think to power a remote LED away from the sensor when it is hidden but I might be wrong on that one.
Both the premier 24 and 48 only have 8 onboard zones but the 24 can be expanded upto 24 zones and the 48 up to 48 obviously.
You mention the smoke alarms, are they wired to the alarm panel because as you describe them it sounds a lot like a 24V dedicated fire alarm panel. Usually on these you need the in and out voltage on different terminals because if you remove a smoke head the loop has top remain intact (via a diode) in case another sensor detects a real fire or a break glass is operated.
paulrockliffe said:
Thanks, that makes sense I think. I don't need FTA. Do you mean to wire RLED to the global tamper?
How do I wire as separate zones? Alarm 1 and 2 to one zone and Reed 1 and 2 to the other? How do I then wire the second sensor from that one?
I wouldn't do anything with the RLED connection it doesn't sound as if you need it.How do I wire as separate zones? Alarm 1 and 2 to one zone and Reed 1 and 2 to the other? How do I then wire the second sensor from that one?
I'm not sure how you have wired it or what you are trying to achieve. I'm guessing you are trying to put more than one of these combined units on one zone ? For total ease of fault finding I would use resistors and have each of these combined units on a separate zone.
Again I wouldn't put 10 smokes on one zone or fault finding could get interesting.As it sounds like it's first fixed if you've got an 8 core between them then use the resistors and put 3 on one zone 3 on another and 4 on another.If you've got abit more info on the smokes it may be helpful.
ETA bloody quoting !
Edited by dav123a on Saturday 9th November 23:02
Edited by dav123a on Saturday 9th November 23:04
Edited by dav123a on Saturday 9th November 23:06
Edited by dav123a on Saturday 9th November 23:08
dav123a said:
I wouldn't do anything with the RLED connection it doesn't sound as if you need it.
I'm not sure how you have wired it or what you are trying to achieve. I'm guessing you are trying to put more than one of these combined units on one zone ? For total ease of fault finding I would use resistors and have each of these combined units on a separate zone.
Again I wouldn't put 10 smokes on one zone or fault finding could get interesting.As it sounds like it's first fixed if you've got an 8 core between them then use the resistors and put 3 on one zone 3 on another and 4 on another.If you've got abit more info on the smokes it may be helpful.
ETA bloody quoting !
I've got 8 core everywhere, for the combined sensors I have a wire to the kitchen door, but want to put another sensor on the conservatory. The only way is to run a wire from the kitchen sensor.I'm not sure how you have wired it or what you are trying to achieve. I'm guessing you are trying to put more than one of these combined units on one zone ? For total ease of fault finding I would use resistors and have each of these combined units on a separate zone.
Again I wouldn't put 10 smokes on one zone or fault finding could get interesting.As it sounds like it's first fixed if you've got an 8 core between them then use the resistors and put 3 on one zone 3 on another and 4 on another.If you've got abit more info on the smokes it may be helpful.
ETA bloody quoting !
The panel has a dedicated fire output separate from the 8 zones, instructions say two wires and up to 10 detectors. I guess the instructions on the detectors are if they're on a zone output instead?
I have 4 PIRs on a zone each, then front door dual sensor and rear door dual sensor. If I put those duals on separate zones, that's 8 used, so no space for a fire zone without buying another expander. I could use the 8 core to connect the front door to the keypad, which supports two zones though.
Smokes are Texecom 4Ws.
paulrockliffe said:
I've got 8 core everywhere, for the combined sensors I have a wire to the kitchen door, but want to put another sensor on the conservatory. The only way is to run a wire from the kitchen sensor.
The panel has a dedicated fire output separate from the 8 zones, instructions say two wires and up to 10 detectors. I guess the instructions on the detectors are if they're on a zone output instead?
I have 4 PIRs on a zone each, then front door dual sensor and rear door dual sensor. If I put those duals on separate zones, that's 8 used, so no space for a fire zone without buying another expander. I could use the 8 core to connect the front door to the keypad, which supports two zones though.
Smokes are Texecom 4Ws.
If you have 8 core to every device then use a pair for the dual sensor in the kitchen and another pair for the one in the conservatory and have each device on a separate zone.then you have 7 zones used.The panel has a dedicated fire output separate from the 8 zones, instructions say two wires and up to 10 detectors. I guess the instructions on the detectors are if they're on a zone output instead?
I have 4 PIRs on a zone each, then front door dual sensor and rear door dual sensor. If I put those duals on separate zones, that's 8 used, so no space for a fire zone without buying another expander. I could use the 8 core to connect the front door to the keypad, which supports two zones though.
Smokes are Texecom 4Ws.
If you are putting all ten smokes on one zone then you need one resistor in the first 9 then two in the last.
It's late hope this makes sense. I'm guessing this is for Durham refurb ? Nice job like the potential of the out buildings.
dav123a said:
If you have 8 core to every device then use a pair for the dual sensor in the kitchen and another pair for the one in the conservatory and have each device on a separate zone.then you have 7 zones used.
If you are putting all ten smokes on one zone then you need one resistor in the first 9 then two in the last.
It's late hope this makes sense. I'm guessing this is for Durham refurb ? Nice job like the potential of the out buildings.
Hello, yes it's going in the Durham project; I need it setting up so that I can test the wires before I fix the floor down upstairs. At the moment it's holding up the floor; skirtings; coving; painting; carpets upstairs, so I need to get it cracked sooner rather than later!If you are putting all ten smokes on one zone then you need one resistor in the first 9 then two in the last.
It's late hope this makes sense. I'm guessing this is for Durham refurb ? Nice job like the potential of the out buildings.
On the door contact/kick sensors I'm looking at the instructions again now that I'm not on my phone; the wiring is shown as Tamper x 2, Alarm x 2, 12v and 0v. Those six wires make sense, it's Double Pole wiring as per the instruction manual. I ignore the Latch contact as I don't need it. That leaves two connections labelled Reed.
Am I right in thinking that these are the equivalent of the two Alarm contacts, but for the Reed switch instead of the Kick switch? If so, I connect these to a different Zone I think?
If that's all correct then I have a diagram that shows how to connect the doors together, so I'm OK with that.
However, that's not how you're saying to wire them up is it? Because how I've done it uses 4 zones, whereas you've got me using 3 zones, which leaves a spare for the fire circuit if I go down that route.
Your wiring has me running the two sensors on the dual sensor on the same zone, then the spare 2 cores passing through to the conservatory to pick up those two sensors on a separate zone? I think that makes sense now.
Are there any merits in doing it either way other than the number of zones used? I *think* my way would tell me whether the door was kicked or opened, but not which door. Your way would tell me which door, but not whether it had been opened or kicked. Or do I do *something* with resistors here?
I'll be honest, at this point I don't really understand the resistors fully, I'm going to cross that bridge when I've got the wiring sorted out.
Right, on to the Fire Circuit:
If I connect to a Zone, I connect 12v and 0v to the power. Then I connect A and B Alarm Relay to the alarm terminals on the Zone. I ignore the Latch input as I don't need that, which just leaves "No Connection (Use for loop through if required)"
My guess is that I use this to connect to the next fire detector, but I don't know how exactly?
Am I right in thinking that I connect all the 12v and 0v in parallel across the 10 detectors?
With that Alarm 1, Alarm 2 and No Connection, I'm thinking that I take Alarm 1 from the Zone to the first detector, then No Connection to the next detector, and repeat to the 10th detector, where I use Alarm 2 to bring it back to the panel? So the alarm circuit is one big loop through all the detectors?
Thanks for your help, really appreciate it!
I would say the reed contacts are the open/close circuit on the doors and should be a seperate zone to the shock sensor, only because usually the door may be an entry exit circuit but if it gets booted then you want the alarm to go off immediately.
Why are you doubling up on zones if you have 48 to go at, what is this duram project.
I might be wrong about this but I'm not sure 12V smoke heads comply with building regs, something to do with battery back up/non fire rated cable. However I dont see them being any worse than mains interlinked without a battery and wired in pvc cable, Maybe its the sounder aspect.
Why are you doubling up on zones if you have 48 to go at, what is this duram project.
I might be wrong about this but I'm not sure 12V smoke heads comply with building regs, something to do with battery back up/non fire rated cable. However I dont see them being any worse than mains interlinked without a battery and wired in pvc cable, Maybe its the sounder aspect.
paulrockliffe said:
Hello, yes it's going in the Durham project; I need it setting up so that I can test the wires before I fix the floor down upstairs. At the moment it's holding up the floor; skirtings; coving; painting; carpets upstairs, so I need to get it cracked sooner rather than later!
On the door contact/kick sensors I'm looking at the instructions again now that I'm not on my phone; the wiring is shown as Tamper x 2, Alarm x 2, 12v and 0v. Those six wires make sense, it's Double Pole wiring as per the instruction manual. I ignore the Latch contact as I don't need it. That leaves two connections labelled Reed.
Am I right in thinking that these are the equivalent of the two Alarm contacts, but for the Reed switch instead of the Kick switch? If so, I connect these to a different Zone I think?
- Yes that sounds right one contact for the reed switch the other for the 'kick switch'. Don't forget to adjust the shock side of it too sensitive and it will be going off all the time. One other thing I wouldnt use a combined shock/door contact for your final exit door. Depending on how you are programmimg the system you may have trouble getting the system to set.Maybe just use a standard door contact.
If that's all correct then I have a diagram that shows how to connect the doors together, so I'm OK with that.
However, that's not how you're saying to wire them up is it? Because how I've done it uses 4 zones, whereas you've got me using 3 zones, which leaves a spare for the fire circuit if I go down that route.
- There is a few different ways of doing it. You could put both sensors on the same zone , put each sensor on its own zone or split the sensor up so it would have two zones per sensor. Depends on what you want and how you are going to program the system.
Your wiring has me running the two sensors on the dual sensor on the same zone, then the spare 2 cores passing through to the conservatory to pick up those two sensors on a separate zone? I think that makes sense now.
-Correct so on the 8 core a pair for power , a pair for kitchen and a pair for conservatory (and possibly a pair for the tamper depending if you use resistors or not )
Are there any merits in doing it either way other than the number of zones used? I *think* my way would tell me whether the door was kicked or opened, but not which door. Your way would tell me which door, but not whether it had been opened or kicked. Or do I do *something* with resistors here?
- TBH again there is a few different ways of doing it. I am abit hesitant into steering you one way or the other because Im not sure how you want the system to work and I dont know the layout of the house. But from what I have seen I would put each sensor on its own zone.
I'll be honest, at this point I don't really understand the resistors fully, I'm going to cross that bridge when I've got the wiring sorted out.
-NH1 put a diagram further up its fairly straight forward. Twist one leg of each of the resistors together and put in one of the alarm terminals. One resistor leg and one core goes in the other alarm terminal. Then the remaining resistor leg goes in one of tamper terminals. The other core goes in the other tamper terminal.*Big But * You need to know which resistor goes where. I think these panels have loads of different resistor value combinations. You need to program it to suit.
Right, on to the Fire Circuit:
If I connect to a Zone, I connect 12v and 0v to the power. Then I connect A and B Alarm Relay to the alarm terminals on the Zone. I ignore the Latch input as I don't need that, which just leaves "No Connection (Use for loop through if required)"
My guess is that I use this to connect to the next fire detector, but I don't know how exactly?
Am I right in thinking that I connect all the 12v and 0v in parallel across the 10 detectors?
With that Alarm 1, Alarm 2 and No Connection, I'm thinking that I take Alarm 1 from the Zone to the first detector, then No Connection to the next detector, and repeat to the 10th detector, where I use Alarm 2 to bring it back to the panel? So the alarm circuit is one big loop through all the detectors?
- Im assuming all the smoke are wired as a radial ? Power is easy just in and out for + and -. I dont know these smokes or the base connections. So its abit of guess work and assumptions on my part.You only need one resistor across one relay and then the same core in and out across the relay for the first 9. Then the last one would be wired like the PIRs except possibly for the tamper connections. From what you have told me you may need to screw them on the same terminal there may not be a tamper as such.
Thanks for your help, really appreciate it!
Ive added my comments in the quote. Nh1 makes a point about Building control I assumed they would want to see 240v smokes with battery back up. As you are rewiring the house I'm guessing they are involved some where along the line ?On the door contact/kick sensors I'm looking at the instructions again now that I'm not on my phone; the wiring is shown as Tamper x 2, Alarm x 2, 12v and 0v. Those six wires make sense, it's Double Pole wiring as per the instruction manual. I ignore the Latch contact as I don't need it. That leaves two connections labelled Reed.
Am I right in thinking that these are the equivalent of the two Alarm contacts, but for the Reed switch instead of the Kick switch? If so, I connect these to a different Zone I think?
- Yes that sounds right one contact for the reed switch the other for the 'kick switch'. Don't forget to adjust the shock side of it too sensitive and it will be going off all the time. One other thing I wouldnt use a combined shock/door contact for your final exit door. Depending on how you are programmimg the system you may have trouble getting the system to set.Maybe just use a standard door contact.
If that's all correct then I have a diagram that shows how to connect the doors together, so I'm OK with that.
However, that's not how you're saying to wire them up is it? Because how I've done it uses 4 zones, whereas you've got me using 3 zones, which leaves a spare for the fire circuit if I go down that route.
- There is a few different ways of doing it. You could put both sensors on the same zone , put each sensor on its own zone or split the sensor up so it would have two zones per sensor. Depends on what you want and how you are going to program the system.
Your wiring has me running the two sensors on the dual sensor on the same zone, then the spare 2 cores passing through to the conservatory to pick up those two sensors on a separate zone? I think that makes sense now.
-Correct so on the 8 core a pair for power , a pair for kitchen and a pair for conservatory (and possibly a pair for the tamper depending if you use resistors or not )
Are there any merits in doing it either way other than the number of zones used? I *think* my way would tell me whether the door was kicked or opened, but not which door. Your way would tell me which door, but not whether it had been opened or kicked. Or do I do *something* with resistors here?
- TBH again there is a few different ways of doing it. I am abit hesitant into steering you one way or the other because Im not sure how you want the system to work and I dont know the layout of the house. But from what I have seen I would put each sensor on its own zone.
I'll be honest, at this point I don't really understand the resistors fully, I'm going to cross that bridge when I've got the wiring sorted out.
-NH1 put a diagram further up its fairly straight forward. Twist one leg of each of the resistors together and put in one of the alarm terminals. One resistor leg and one core goes in the other alarm terminal. Then the remaining resistor leg goes in one of tamper terminals. The other core goes in the other tamper terminal.*Big But * You need to know which resistor goes where. I think these panels have loads of different resistor value combinations. You need to program it to suit.
Right, on to the Fire Circuit:
If I connect to a Zone, I connect 12v and 0v to the power. Then I connect A and B Alarm Relay to the alarm terminals on the Zone. I ignore the Latch input as I don't need that, which just leaves "No Connection (Use for loop through if required)"
My guess is that I use this to connect to the next fire detector, but I don't know how exactly?
Am I right in thinking that I connect all the 12v and 0v in parallel across the 10 detectors?
With that Alarm 1, Alarm 2 and No Connection, I'm thinking that I take Alarm 1 from the Zone to the first detector, then No Connection to the next detector, and repeat to the 10th detector, where I use Alarm 2 to bring it back to the panel? So the alarm circuit is one big loop through all the detectors?
- Im assuming all the smoke are wired as a radial ? Power is easy just in and out for + and -. I dont know these smokes or the base connections. So its abit of guess work and assumptions on my part.You only need one resistor across one relay and then the same core in and out across the relay for the first 9. Then the last one would be wired like the PIRs except possibly for the tamper connections. From what you have told me you may need to screw them on the same terminal there may not be a tamper as such.
Thanks for your help, really appreciate it!
Thanks, that's really helpful. It'll be Friday before I'm back to sort it out so I'll do a bit more reading this week.
Re Building Control, my electrcian was happy to sign off with me adding these smokes afterwards. Probably not right, but it's done now. I assumed they were compliant, because otherwise they don't make much sense regardless of effectiveness. Why bother making them if they don't comply?
In reality there's no way a fire can disable all of the sensors without setting the alarm off, all of the wires are reasonably well protected too so I just can't see it. Could bigger my loft conversion plans though as I was hoping to use the smokes to avoid fire doors.
Re the zones, there's 8 on the panel. To add more you have to buy an expander. Alternatively I can wire two zones off each keypad, but that's limited by having only 4 spare cores at each keypad.
Re Building Control, my electrcian was happy to sign off with me adding these smokes afterwards. Probably not right, but it's done now. I assumed they were compliant, because otherwise they don't make much sense regardless of effectiveness. Why bother making them if they don't comply?
In reality there's no way a fire can disable all of the sensors without setting the alarm off, all of the wires are reasonably well protected too so I just can't see it. Could bigger my loft conversion plans though as I was hoping to use the smokes to avoid fire doors.
Re the zones, there's 8 on the panel. To add more you have to buy an expander. Alternatively I can wire two zones off each keypad, but that's limited by having only 4 spare cores at each keypad.
UPDATE!
I fired it up last week, without the smokes attached, as I needed to test the wires and fix my floor down upstairs.
I got a number of errors, which are down to not fitting resistors. I enter the engineer code in the panel and get a list of the errors. I want to use Wintex to get the details, tweak the setup and work through them.
Wintex talks to the panel, but the panel doesn't let me in. The keypads then tell me that a user is required to authorise access.
I can't get past the error messages on the keypad to get to any sort of programming menu. SO I can't add a user that way.
What am I doing wrong?
I fired it up last week, without the smokes attached, as I needed to test the wires and fix my floor down upstairs.
I got a number of errors, which are down to not fitting resistors. I enter the engineer code in the panel and get a list of the errors. I want to use Wintex to get the details, tweak the setup and work through them.
Wintex talks to the panel, but the panel doesn't let me in. The keypads then tell me that a user is required to authorise access.
I can't get past the error messages on the keypad to get to any sort of programming menu. SO I can't add a user that way.
What am I doing wrong?
I dont use the software but to get to the engineering menus I put in the engineers code, the panel tells me I need a user to enable access, I then enter the master user code, it then asks me if I want to enable engineer, I press yes and then enter the engineers code again.
There is a menu to disable needing a user code first but when I've tried it it usually reverts back after a few goes.
You also need to change the zone wiring type to EOL/normally closed/open/ID etc depending on how you have wired them. There is also a setting for the value of the resistors too.
Its all explained in the engineers manual you dont get with them anymore.
There is a menu to disable needing a user code first but when I've tried it it usually reverts back after a few goes.
You also need to change the zone wiring type to EOL/normally closed/open/ID etc depending on how you have wired them. There is also a setting for the value of the resistors too.
Its all explained in the engineers manual you dont get with them anymore.
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