What did you do in the garage yesterday?
Discussion
Hahahahaha 
There are typically 4 routes for bypass / idle air:
- Past the throttle butterfly[s] ~ throttle stop adjustment normally
- Via the idle screw a bypass from the throttle into the plenum
- Through the stepper motor pipework (or other idle valve).
- Through the PCV from just before the throttle into the trumpet base (left of plenum)
..and from experience quite small changes in heads / inlet manifold / CR can make quite big differences to just the idle air (before you start playing with spark to fine tune).
There are typically 4 routes for bypass / idle air:
- Past the throttle butterfly[s] ~ throttle stop adjustment normally
- Via the idle screw a bypass from the throttle into the plenum
- Through the stepper motor pipework (or other idle valve).
- Through the PCV from just before the throttle into the trumpet base (left of plenum)
..and from experience quite small changes in heads / inlet manifold / CR can make quite big differences to just the idle air (before you start playing with spark to fine tune).
Silencer welded up and a bit of weld where the exhaust exits the silencer. Kept it as standard. Put the exhaust on this evening. It's much, much quieter, but a very deep rumble. Not so many pops and bangs. 50/50 about it at the moment 
... Jury is out! I also had a couple of screw holes put in for track day silencer, but not so sure it will need them TBH!
It was a pig of a job getting the exhausts to protrude evenly at the back of the car. When I purchased the car, the exhaust wouldn't bolt to the engine block where it joins the y-piece and I think I know why now, because the exhaust sat to one side once it did. I bolted it up, drilled a new hole in the silencer plate and smeared some paint on the bare metal. Fits a treat now and the exhausts are much more even at the back.
Also, put the rear anti-roll bar back on with the Mondeo drop links, having had the ARB bent inwards by 25mm on each side, so they sit vertical... what a difference!!! You can actually feel it in the seat of your pants!
... Jury is out! I also had a couple of screw holes put in for track day silencer, but not so sure it will need them TBH! It was a pig of a job getting the exhausts to protrude evenly at the back of the car. When I purchased the car, the exhaust wouldn't bolt to the engine block where it joins the y-piece and I think I know why now, because the exhaust sat to one side once it did. I bolted it up, drilled a new hole in the silencer plate and smeared some paint on the bare metal. Fits a treat now and the exhausts are much more even at the back.
Also, put the rear anti-roll bar back on with the Mondeo drop links, having had the ARB bent inwards by 25mm on each side, so they sit vertical... what a difference!!! You can actually feel it in the seat of your pants!
TBH, this is the first time I've noticed the ARB doing its thing, whereas before I had the ARB adjusted or with the original TVR drop links I couldn't tell much difference, however, like you say, I wonder if you could get away with it if you really wanted too, especially if you have good aftermarket adjustable shocks?
Hmmm... I see what you mean about the y-piece clamp, however, once it bolts to the block, would it make a difference? I couldn't get the exhausts even when I put it together for the MOT a few weeks ago. I'm wondering if when they did the original 'sports' conversion, or when they welded the last flexi piece on, they had do it a couple of mm out, pushing the exhaust to one side? Anyway, another bolt hole in the mounting plate sorted it.
I'm keeping an eye on the sump now after re-sealing it.
Hmmm... I see what you mean about the y-piece clamp, however, once it bolts to the block, would it make a difference? I couldn't get the exhausts even when I put it together for the MOT a few weeks ago. I'm wondering if when they did the original 'sports' conversion, or when they welded the last flexi piece on, they had do it a couple of mm out, pushing the exhaust to one side? Anyway, another bolt hole in the mounting plate sorted it.
I'm keeping an eye on the sump now after re-sealing it.
I had a rear ARB mount break after I fitted SH drop links and was looking at options for welding it up (there are aftermaket strentehning plates available off the shelf as its a common problem) when Pupp suggested leaving it off.
I haven't had a rear ARB on the car for 4 years now. I find it more progressive on the back end before it lets go. Still have the original shocks BTW.
I haven't had a rear ARB on the car for 4 years now. I find it more progressive on the back end before it lets go. Still have the original shocks BTW.
Tyre Tread said:
I had a rear ARB mount break after I fitted SH drop links and was looking at options for welding it up (there are aftermaket strentehning plates available off the shelf as its a common problem) when Pupp suggested leaving it off.
I haven't had a rear ARB on the car for 4 years now. I find it more progressive on the back end before it lets go. Still have the original shocks BTW.
I'd love to know more. You only have to look at the rear ARB from underneath to realise it is about as much use as a fart in a space suit. I haven't had a rear ARB on the car for 4 years now. I find it more progressive on the back end before it lets go. Still have the original shocks BTW.
I have left mine on to date, as I do track days and don't want to find out what it does the armco way.
Do you take your car on track? Your comment implies you either do that, or are a regular at visiting the countryside backwards, through a hedge, at speed?
QBee said:
I'd love to know more. You only have to look at the rear ARB from underneath to realise it is about as much use as a fart in a space suit.
I have left mine on to date, as I do track days and don't want to find out what it does the armco way.
Do you take your car on track? Your comment implies you either do that, or are a regular at visiting the countryside backwards, through a hedge, at speed?
I have left mine on to date, as I do track days and don't want to find out what it does the armco way.
Do you take your car on track? Your comment implies you either do that, or are a regular at visiting the countryside backwards, through a hedge, at speed?
No I do neither on a regular basis. In fact I have only tracked it on the Asda charity days but I do 'press on' a wee bit from time to time
Just take it off and have a play on the road through corners.
Chuffmeister said:
Silencer welded up and a bit of weld where the exhaust exits the silencer. Kept it as standard. Put the exhaust on this evening. It's much, much quieter, but a very deep rumble. Not so many pops and bangs. 50/50 about it at the moment ... Jury is out! I also had a couple of screw holes put in for track day silencer, but not so sure it will need them TBH!
I was hoping that main and pre-cats out and standard back box would keep the smiles per mile factor up but it's too quiet unless under lots of throttle. Even my mum noticed last time I called in to see her that she didn't here me coming like the old car! ... Jury is out! I also had a couple of screw holes put in for track day silencer, but not so sure it will need them TBH! Just remember, if you do track days, that all cats out, Clive Y and standard silencer is 105-108 decibels at 4500 rpm, so you will just about get on track, or need add on silencers. I cannot go to Goodwood, Donington, Castle Combe and many track days at Brands Hatch, Mallory, Croft etc., I am too loud.
Mine doesn't sound particularly loud - on the TVRCC run I went on last weekend, around the Peak District, mine was positively quiet.
Mine doesn't sound particularly loud - on the TVRCC run I went on last weekend, around the Peak District, mine was positively quiet.
Also another head has been welded..
Only problem is JIG (20mm steel plate)attachment bolt is very tight in head.. Need slightly heat and hammering to get it out.. Without heating it wont come out.. All other 9 headbolts hole is ok. This is slightly tight after welding.. Need to drill 0.5mm bigger hole or clean it.. Bolt is M12
I spend 2 hours for porting to get slightly bigger port to get TIG inside the track.. And it took approx 6-7 hours for welding etc..
We measure head straightness and we have to machine approx 0.04mm to get head back to straight.. So ok to use without milling. But for better sealing it is better to mill..
Also i have to make pressure test before any machining..'
Any thought?
Only problem is JIG (20mm steel plate)attachment bolt is very tight in head.. Need slightly heat and hammering to get it out.. Without heating it wont come out.. All other 9 headbolts hole is ok. This is slightly tight after welding.. Need to drill 0.5mm bigger hole or clean it.. Bolt is M12
I spend 2 hours for porting to get slightly bigger port to get TIG inside the track.. And it took approx 6-7 hours for welding etc..
We measure head straightness and we have to machine approx 0.04mm to get head back to straight.. So ok to use without milling. But for better sealing it is better to mill..
Also i have to make pressure test before any machining..'
Any thought?
TV8 said:
I was hoping that main and pre-cats out and standard back box would keep the smiles per mile factor up but it's too quiet unless under lots of throttle. Even my mum noticed last time I called in to see her that she didn't here me coming like the old car!
I agree, it is quiet, but in some ways it's okay. Ideally, somebody would develop a valve exhaust to fit or develop a guide to fitting a couple of valves that could be opened and closed electronically, so you could have the best of both worlds. Quite a few of the yank machines have them, but I'm not sure if the silencers will fit the Chim. Having driven around today, it was much more comfortable on cruise, but could do with more wellie when under load.QBee said:
Tyre Tread said:
I had a rear ARB mount break after I fitted SH drop links and was looking at options for welding it up (there are aftermaket strentehning plates available off the shelf as its a common problem) when Pupp suggested leaving it off.
I haven't had a rear ARB on the car for 4 years now. I find it more progressive on the back end before it lets go. Still have the original shocks BTW.
I'd love to know more. You only have to look at the rear ARB from underneath to realise it is about as much use as a fart in a space suit. I haven't had a rear ARB on the car for 4 years now. I find it more progressive on the back end before it lets go. Still have the original shocks BTW.
I have left mine on to date, as I do track days and don't want to find out what it does the armco way.
Do you take your car on track? Your comment implies you either do that, or are a regular at visiting the countryside backwards, through a hedge, at speed?
I tried original type replacement droplinks and then rose-jointed ones. Never did like the complete lack of feel; took the thing off also when a wishbone bracket fractured.... different car
Pupp said:
You may need to firm up the damping a tad, especially compression if it's separately adjustable on your units
Single adjuster. But I will try different settings. I usually have the rears fairly soft, to stop it hopping on tight corners, but will try different settings.It's Curborough, Daz.
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