Help with engine rebuild
Discussion
My '99 Turbo 2000 needs an engine rebuild due to knocking at the bottom end.
However I'm finding it difficult to find out what bits I need, what spec to go for and where to get them. I've asked a couple of times on Scoobynet, but not really had the answers I'd hoped for.
Basically if I'm going to the expense of rebuilding the engine, I'd like to improve the performance. But I am still working on a budget.
The car is stock bar a catback and just had a new clutch.
What I'd like is a genuine 300-330hp that's usable and safe. I'm not looking for a HP monster as I know the gearbox will be a weak link.
Can someone recommend what internal engine bits I'll need to change and any other supporting mods I'll need to look at.
Thanks.
However I'm finding it difficult to find out what bits I need, what spec to go for and where to get them. I've asked a couple of times on Scoobynet, but not really had the answers I'd hoped for.
Basically if I'm going to the expense of rebuilding the engine, I'd like to improve the performance. But I am still working on a budget.
The car is stock bar a catback and just had a new clutch.
What I'd like is a genuine 300-330hp that's usable and safe. I'm not looking for a HP monster as I know the gearbox will be a weak link.
Can someone recommend what internal engine bits I'll need to change and any other supporting mods I'll need to look at.
Thanks.
Forged rods, decent pistons. I used Manley and Mahle. Stock cranks are fine. If you need to replace the crank it's worth considering a 2.1 stroker, 100cc doesn't sound much but it really makes a difference to mid-range torque.
Any idea what caused your knocking? Dodgy MAF?
I'd seriously suggest an aftermarket ecu ( I went for Syvecs) that doesn't rely on MAF.
Good tuning guides here: http://www.andyforrestperformance.co.uk/58730.html
Any idea what caused your knocking? Dodgy MAF?
I'd seriously suggest an aftermarket ecu ( I went for Syvecs) that doesn't rely on MAF.
Good tuning guides here: http://www.andyforrestperformance.co.uk/58730.html
Edited by Lefty on Monday 16th December 22:07
If your crank pistons and rods are ok and still within tolerence no need to go to the expense of a full replacement of main parts. Get the crank polished if it is still worth doing otherwise a new crank will have to be purchased but spec it with some decent race bearings from ACL. Likely if your bottom end is knocking you will have to replace the crank. Get your heads skimmed and cylinder bores honed, and refreshing the engine with a new set of rings will finish the job.
Don't try and do a forged/upgrade rebuild on a really low budget unless you are rebuilding the engine yourself and saving on labour costs because decent upgrade parts are not cheap and cheap aftermarket parts may not be as good as the factory ones you have in there now.
A freshly built factory spec 2ltr after running in and mapping should be good for 340-350bhp so what you have planned at 330bhp will be just fine.
Don't try and do a forged/upgrade rebuild on a really low budget unless you are rebuilding the engine yourself and saving on labour costs because decent upgrade parts are not cheap and cheap aftermarket parts may not be as good as the factory ones you have in there now.
A freshly built factory spec 2ltr after running in and mapping should be good for 340-350bhp so what you have planned at 330bhp will be just fine.
Thanks for the info. Yeah I'd been looking at some of the forged parts, but to be honest they all seemed a little pricey considering the car is probably only worth £1500 or so.
I wondered if using pistons from a JDM spec WRX STI would be worth while? As I assume while not the strongest, that they'd be an upgrade to a T2000 piston.
Are stock conrods a weak area on these?
I wondered if using pistons from a JDM spec WRX STI would be worth while? As I assume while not the strongest, that they'd be an upgrade to a T2000 piston.
Are stock conrods a weak area on these?
From 99-2001 the 2ltr engines are basically the same as 2ltr newage WRX's.
My old 2002 bugeye engine had piston slap but it's ultimate demise was the oil pump. JDM WRX/STi engine should be fine but you still don;t know what you're getting if it's a used engine.
Unless it had a rebuild recently i wouldn't bother. I know too many people that have bought used engines both private and from a breaker, been told it's only done 60K miles ( i hear that bu115hit so often) that have gone bang not long after fitting them.
At least with your own engine getting it rebuilt does mean it's a known quantity, you know the history, you know it's been rebuilt and what parts are in it. That way if anything goes wrong soon after you can go back to the builder and ask questions.
If you buy a used engine privately and it's either knocking, or dies soon after fitting you have slim to no chance of getting your money back.
My old 2002 bugeye engine had piston slap but it's ultimate demise was the oil pump. JDM WRX/STi engine should be fine but you still don;t know what you're getting if it's a used engine.
Unless it had a rebuild recently i wouldn't bother. I know too many people that have bought used engines both private and from a breaker, been told it's only done 60K miles ( i hear that bu115hit so often) that have gone bang not long after fitting them.
At least with your own engine getting it rebuilt does mean it's a known quantity, you know the history, you know it's been rebuilt and what parts are in it. That way if anything goes wrong soon after you can go back to the builder and ask questions.
If you buy a used engine privately and it's either knocking, or dies soon after fitting you have slim to no chance of getting your money back.
Yeah not looking at used engines. I firstly couldn't believe the price and considered the risk too high unless I was going to patch it together to flog it.
I'd just like to build the strongest engine I can for a modest budget. Don't really want to lump out £500 for rods and another £500 for pistons.
I'd just like to build the strongest engine I can for a modest budget. Don't really want to lump out £500 for rods and another £500 for pistons.
Are you doing the work yourself? If not you would probably be better off speaking to some good builders and see what they suggest. The labour will probably be more than the parts or just as much.
A decent builder will listen to what your after and give you a price on what you'll need. Avoid any that tell you you will need forged everything and new crank etc.
The guy i would recommend (Steve Whitson) is nowhere near you but i'm sure some on here will be able to recommend someone.
If your building it yourself, as others have mentioned, a good refresh would be enough for what your after.
Johnny.
A decent builder will listen to what your after and give you a price on what you'll need. Avoid any that tell you you will need forged everything and new crank etc.
The guy i would recommend (Steve Whitson) is nowhere near you but i'm sure some on here will be able to recommend someone.
If your building it yourself, as others have mentioned, a good refresh would be enough for what your after.
Johnny.
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