Crossram build

[crossram]

Here are some pictures of my build I made some flanges to keep the hot air out of the cabin for the cables

[crossram]

Radiator going in

[crossram]

I tossed out the Ultima bolts and got some ARP bolts drilled some holes for safety wires, I never hurts to be safe. In the past I have found that most bolts fall off of these types of cars due to the hard driving they go through, so many of the bolts will be safety wired. [ur|http://thumbsnap.com/oKyWuuUn[/url]

Edited by crossram on Thursday 26th December 06:06

[Steve_D]

crossram said:

I tossed out the Ultima bolts and got some ARP bolts drilled some holes for safety wires, I never hurts to be safe. In the past I have found that most bolts fall off of these types of cars due to the hard driving they go through, so many of the bolts will be safety wired. [ur|http://thumbsnap.com/oKyWuuUn[/url]

Edited by crossram on Thursday 26th December 06:06

Whilst I can relate to the idea of making things as safe as possible I feel, in this case, you have perhaps gone the other way.
The Ultima supplied bolts would have been 8.8 grade and include Nyloc nuts which are more than adequate for the task. I have dismantled these joints on 20 year old TVR cars and in some cases have had to cut them off as they are so secure.
It appears, but I could be wrong, that there is no lock washer on your bolt. The lock wire will prevent the bolt from rotating but does not prevent the nut from doing so. It looks like the nut could undo by about 5 turns. The wire will stop the nut and bolt falling out but this is a clamp so the clamping force will be lost and the steering shaft could then spin in the joint with the resultant lose of steering.

If the lock wire had gone through a corner of the nut and a corner of the bolt head then all would be well.

Steve

[UltimaCH]

If you feel the nylocs are not secure enough, you can always try these products: http://www.nord-lock.com/

[donkeasy]

crossram said:

Here are some pictures of my build I made some flanges to keep the hot air out of the cabin for the cables

I looked at your photo's.
You have a really different approach to solutions, nice!
Let the pictures come so we can give usable comments.

1. Maybe next time put the kit on the outside?

2. other picture: Drill the hole close to the nut and

[crossram]

Steve_D said:

Whilst I can relate to the idea of making things as safe as possible I feel, in this case, you have perhaps gone the other way.
The Ultima supplied bolts would have been 8.8 grade and include Nyloc nuts which are more than adequate for the task. I have dismantled these joints on 20 year old TVR cars and in some cases have had to cut them off as they are so secure.
It appears, but I could be wrong, that there is no lock washer on your bolt. The lock wire will prevent the bolt from rotating but does not prevent the nut from doing so. It looks like the nut could undo by about 5 turns. The wire will stop the nut and bolt falling out but this is a clamp so the clamping force will be lost and the steering shaft could then spin in the joint with the resultant lose of steering.

If the lock wire had gone through a corner of the nut and a corner of the bolt head then all would be well.

Steve

ARP hardware is heat-treated 8740 chromoly They are nominally rated at 180,000 psi tensile strength and provide a substantial extra margin of safety over Grade 8 hardware.They also resist rust and are maintenance-free you can read more here http://arp-bolts.com/ The picture was only for reference, final installation will look a bit different.

[crossram]

donkeasy said:

I looked at your photo's.
You have a really different approach to solutions, nice!
Let the pictures come so we can give usable comments.

1. Maybe next time put the kit on the outside?

Not sure what kit on outside means?

[crossram]

When the Ultima is shipped to the USA it comes in a few big crates, real big crates! The packaging is excellent and I found the quality of the wood to be very high, so I slapped some paint on the pieces and reconfigured it into a shed to store my body molds.

[donkeasy]

That black stuff you putted in there, when you put it outside you won't see it afterwarts and when you put the cable in you won't touch it.

crossram said:

Not sure what kit on outside means?

[crossram]

donkeasy said:

Yea the problem area was the round upright, no access on the outside, I don't think any of those seals will touch though.

[crossram]

Mounting these radiator air shields do you mount them right over the top of the other rivets?

[crossram]

Does anyone block this gap?

[donkeasy]

Yes!

You want all the air to go through the radiator

Edited by donkeasy on Friday 3rd January 00:47

[Steve_D]

Your kit should include a roll of foam tape. When you look at the tape it looks like it is no more than 3-4mm thick but when you release it from the roll it expands to somewhere around 15mm thick. Unroll a length and cut it to size. Peel back the backing for a short length and secure a tab of masking tape to the end of the backing tape. Lay the backing back onto the tape. Do this to both ends of the tape.

Next is the difficult bit. Squash the tape flat and as quick as possible post it into the gap. Use the tabs to peel back and remove the backing tape whilst the tape is still positioned in the gap.

Steve

[Justaredbadge]

Or just trial fit the rad on it's mounts and mark a line where the bottom lost point of the rad sits. then remove the rad and put the tape on. when you finally put the rad back the tape is in place and will be in the right spot when it is lowered down on to it's mounts.

[Justaredbadge]

Or just trial fit the rad on it's mounts and mark a line where the bottom-most point of the rad sits. then remove the rad and put the tape on. when you finally put the rad back the tape is in place and will be in the right spot when it is lowered down on to it's mounts.

[crossram]

Thanks I thought that tape was for the sides :-)

Edited by crossram on Friday 27th December 17:09

[pilbeam_mp62]

Alternatively, you could do it like this, which is neater than mounting it on top of the other rivets (although if you have already sealed and riveted the panel, you will have some difficulty)




and if you are concerned about heat getting into the cockpit, you could fit an additional plate behind the radiator, like this :-



(You will notice that I made that panel removeable)

[crossram]

Thanks!


So I took a paint stick cut it to length so it ended on the center of a rivet I wasn't going to use off the aluminum side plate

clamped it down and tapped it with a hammer leaving the dimples