DIY braided brake lines ?
Discussion
Hi,
I want to change all the lines on the lancer for braided, getting them made up is going to be expensive, so I'm considering the DIY approach.
Can anyone suggest a good supplier of all the parts I need? Basically a good few M of hose plus associated male and female ends.
I won't be tackling the job as a complete novice as I've done a few bikes before but not a car, and I do have help if needed.
Cheers
Pete.
I want to change all the lines on the lancer for braided, getting them made up is going to be expensive, so I'm considering the DIY approach.
Can anyone suggest a good supplier of all the parts I need? Basically a good few M of hose plus associated male and female ends.
I won't be tackling the job as a complete novice as I've done a few bikes before but not a car, and I do have help if needed.
Cheers
Pete.
Take your pick.
Earls, Torques, Goodridge, Aeroquip etc etc
There are dozens of makes about these days.
But, whilst it doesnt seem to be enforced that much, DIY screw together brake lines are not supposed to pass MOT. They should be crimped together. SO that sort of rules out DIY construction.
But there would likely be a shop local to you that could do this for you, or just measure and spec what you need and a retailer can do it.
Custom lines shouldnt be any more expensive than factory really.
I just got a pair made on Friday, 2 black lines approx 50cm each with male M10x1.0 ends for £32 locally.
Earls, Torques, Goodridge, Aeroquip etc etc
There are dozens of makes about these days.
But, whilst it doesnt seem to be enforced that much, DIY screw together brake lines are not supposed to pass MOT. They should be crimped together. SO that sort of rules out DIY construction.
But there would likely be a shop local to you that could do this for you, or just measure and spec what you need and a retailer can do it.
Custom lines shouldnt be any more expensive than factory really.
I just got a pair made on Friday, 2 black lines approx 50cm each with male M10x1.0 ends for £32 locally.
I'm not sure what kit is available for making braided hoses at home but on crimped fittings the crimping procedure is critical.
How do you pressure test home made hoses?
I'm all for DIY but monkeys could make hoses with the right equipment and it costs peanuts to get a local firm to do it properly with their equipment.
How do you pressure test home made hoses?
I'm all for DIY but monkeys could make hoses with the right equipment and it costs peanuts to get a local firm to do it properly with their equipment.
Hi,
Thanks for the replies. My main reason is being able to route the lines the way I want, get the right length and then make them up. I expect I'll do as suggested, find a local company which might offer a discount for several. Deffo going to be a case of measure twice and cut once.
The crimped hoses are flexis which have been replaced with factory items anyway, it was the pitted metal ones that need doing.
I've had them made before by " earls" , to the best of my knowledge the hoses weren't pressure tested, merely made up and handed over.
Thanks for the replies. My main reason is being able to route the lines the way I want, get the right length and then make them up. I expect I'll do as suggested, find a local company which might offer a discount for several. Deffo going to be a case of measure twice and cut once.
The crimped hoses are flexis which have been replaced with factory items anyway, it was the pitted metal ones that need doing.
I've had them made before by " earls" , to the best of my knowledge the hoses weren't pressure tested, merely made up and handed over.
texaxile said:
Hi,
Thanks for the replies. My main reason is being able to route the lines the way I want, get the right length and then make them up. I expect I'll do as suggested, find a local company which might offer a discount for several. Deffo going to be a case of measure twice and cut once.
The crimped hoses are flexis which have been replaced with factory items anyway, it was the pitted metal ones that need doing.
Don't replace hard lines with flexible ones, that is an utter waste of money and can only make the pedal feel more spongy.Thanks for the replies. My main reason is being able to route the lines the way I want, get the right length and then make them up. I expect I'll do as suggested, find a local company which might offer a discount for several. Deffo going to be a case of measure twice and cut once.
The crimped hoses are flexis which have been replaced with factory items anyway, it was the pitted metal ones that need doing.
There is nothing stopping you making the hoses DIY, they are easy to do and all the parts are readily available.
But as I said, they are not supposed to pass an MOT, although rarely would they fail.
Hell, for a long time, some branded kits were sold made in exactly the same way.
As for replacing solid with braided...some rally cars use braided throughout.
But as I said, they are not supposed to pass an MOT, although rarely would they fail.
Hell, for a long time, some branded kits were sold made in exactly the same way.
As for replacing solid with braided...some rally cars use braided throughout.
stevieturbo said:
As for replacing solid with braided...some rally cars use braided throughout.
Yes, mainly done by the clueless and those with too much money. I helped replace all the aeroquip fitted to a classic MG Midget competition car with cupro-nickel line a few years back as the owner couldn't get a hard pedal. It was perfect afterwards.Cheers Chaps,
Given what I've read I've changed my plans, the NLA Flexis I'll get done in braided, and just replace the metal ones like for like.
I was going to do most of the lines in braided for aesthetic looks and also being able to forget about them once done. I'd also read elsewhere that braided gives a better pedal and sharper response. As this might not be the case I'll simply give the metals a thin coating of oil or clear Bilt Hamber when it comes to the underside.
Thanks for your advice guys, probably saved me a lot of hassle and unnecessary mucking about in the long run.
Given what I've read I've changed my plans, the NLA Flexis I'll get done in braided, and just replace the metal ones like for like.
I was going to do most of the lines in braided for aesthetic looks and also being able to forget about them once done. I'd also read elsewhere that braided gives a better pedal and sharper response. As this might not be the case I'll simply give the metals a thin coating of oil or clear Bilt Hamber when it comes to the underside.
Thanks for your advice guys, probably saved me a lot of hassle and unnecessary mucking about in the long run.
texaxile said:
I'd also read elsewhere that braided gives a better pedal and sharper response. As this might not be the case I'll simply give the metals a thin coating of oil or clear Bilt Hamber when it comes to the underside.
I find it hard to believe that braided would be better than metal when metal is an option. The braids minimuse the pressure loss in a rubber hose where flexibility is required, but it's still a rubber hose and will have some 'give' in it. Metal on the other hand, will not flex or give at all so pressure will be maintained prefectly.venhill make up hoses to any size if they don't have your vehicle listed
http://www.venhill.co.uk/Hoses_&_Cables_-_...
http://www.venhill.co.uk/Hoses_&_Cables_-_...
one eyed mick said:
S/S braided pipe do not use rubber , but ptfe there is no measurable expansion under pressure ,the braiding is for protection as said in previous posts there must be thousands of cars both competition and road using them with no probs my own included
So what advantage is there in having flexible lines throughout, rather than just where they are needed?Gassing Station | Suspension, Brakes & Tyres | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff