Pantera 393ci V8 - Oil change pre or post powertuning?
Discussion
I have a Ford Cleveland which was bored and stroked and completely rebuilt using new parts by Huddart Racing Engines, Crewe.
The engine has done around 600 miles of varied road miles and the engine has started to loosen up. The carbs are also now running a little off so my thoughts were to have the engine power-tuned on a rolling road with engine set-up genius Peter Lander of Sigma Engineering, Gillingham.
Any thoughts/tips/hints?
Should I be servicing the engine before or after the session. Or both?
Many thanks,
The engine has done around 600 miles of varied road miles and the engine has started to loosen up. The carbs are also now running a little off so my thoughts were to have the engine power-tuned on a rolling road with engine set-up genius Peter Lander of Sigma Engineering, Gillingham.
Any thoughts/tips/hints?
Should I be servicing the engine before or after the session. Or both?
Many thanks,
Make sure the car is fit to go on the rolling road so the operator is using skills to get the best from the setup not wasting time sorting easy to fix faults.
Oil change.
Check water and integritu of cooling system.
Fan belts tight, alternator charging. Battery/ies fully charged.
Carb gives WOT on demand.
Plugs cleaned and correct heat range/type (they can suffer a lot in new engines to start with biscuity/concretey rough deposits on the electrodes).
Secure plug leads, distributor cap, coil leads high and lt.
Engine mounts, transmission good including ujs.
Brakes not binding including handbrake releasing each time.
Tyres in good condition and correctly and evenly inflated (28 psi plus for runs if not using pods).
Fuel system ok and no leaks, correct pump and regulator and filter.
To name but a few
Peter
Oil change.
Check water and integritu of cooling system.
Fan belts tight, alternator charging. Battery/ies fully charged.
Carb gives WOT on demand.
Plugs cleaned and correct heat range/type (they can suffer a lot in new engines to start with biscuity/concretey rough deposits on the electrodes).
Secure plug leads, distributor cap, coil leads high and lt.
Engine mounts, transmission good including ujs.
Brakes not binding including handbrake releasing each time.
Tyres in good condition and correctly and evenly inflated (28 psi plus for runs if not using pods).
Fuel system ok and no leaks, correct pump and regulator and filter.
To name but a few
Peter
I always use to do a compression check before i started anything , also make sure your getting full throttle both on the pedal and linkage .....
Usual things water and exhaust leaks...
Make sure all the plugs are the same grade and gap...
If its got a electric fan make sure thats working and also make sure your running a thermostat off the correct opening temp and maybe a Scant rad cap ...
Usual things water and exhaust leaks...
Make sure all the plugs are the same grade and gap...
If its got a electric fan make sure thats working and also make sure your running a thermostat off the correct opening temp and maybe a Scant rad cap ...
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