Pearl white paint protection
Discussion
I am just about to press the button on a pearl white MX5 mk 3.5 for my step-daughter. It appears to be in very good nick, more will become clear when I get it home and wash it. It's done 11,000 miles, been garaged and seemingly cherished by it's one lady owner and obviously bulled to within an inch of it's life by the stealer.
The issue I want to address is that I want to make it really easy for the S-D to wash, and provide some protection for when she doesn't wash it. I really would like the grime to just slide off making it a quick and easy weekly job for her. She does not live with us, so whatever I do needs to be long term, as I have minimal chance to top it up and can't see her wielding polishes every week. It would also be good if it resisted things like tar spot remover... being white...
I am no expert, but should I be thinking about a hard sealant of some type? Is there any good reason considering the service and product that they sell at stealers for many hundreds of quid instead of something I could apply myself like Nano, which is rumoured to be a long-term solution for £not-much and some sore arms?
So many questions, probably many different answers, but with your wisdom on this forum, you could just help me keep the paint as good as possible with "27 year-old girl" style car washing - that being probably not very frequent and not very thorough once the 5 minute wonder has worn off her shiny new car.
I guess the short answer is just drop it off to Kelly for a few days and hand over my wallet
The issue I want to address is that I want to make it really easy for the S-D to wash, and provide some protection for when she doesn't wash it. I really would like the grime to just slide off making it a quick and easy weekly job for her. She does not live with us, so whatever I do needs to be long term, as I have minimal chance to top it up and can't see her wielding polishes every week. It would also be good if it resisted things like tar spot remover... being white...
I am no expert, but should I be thinking about a hard sealant of some type? Is there any good reason considering the service and product that they sell at stealers for many hundreds of quid instead of something I could apply myself like Nano, which is rumoured to be a long-term solution for £not-much and some sore arms?
So many questions, probably many different answers, but with your wisdom on this forum, you could just help me keep the paint as good as possible with "27 year-old girl" style car washing - that being probably not very frequent and not very thorough once the 5 minute wonder has worn off her shiny new car.
I guess the short answer is just drop it off to Kelly for a few days and hand over my wallet
Thanks Andrew.
I have just had a look at videos and some writing for both product sets. Bit tired so will have another more detailed (no pun) read later.
Seeing Kelly apply the gtechniq EXO V1 on that Enzo made it look very simple. Panel temperatures are clearly very important, but my guess is that it would not necessarily need someone with Kelly's immense skill to get this on the paint to a good finish. Getting the paint right first is a different story however.
Many thanks for the pointers. I may need it to warm up a bit first, but it looks like a sensible recommendation - thanks again.
I have just had a look at videos and some writing for both product sets. Bit tired so will have another more detailed (no pun) read later.
Seeing Kelly apply the gtechniq EXO V1 on that Enzo made it look very simple. Panel temperatures are clearly very important, but my guess is that it would not necessarily need someone with Kelly's immense skill to get this on the paint to a good finish. Getting the paint right first is a different story however.
Many thanks for the pointers. I may need it to warm up a bit first, but it looks like a sensible recommendation - thanks again.
Lots of people swear by the Jeffs products on white cars, Prime, jet and gloss.
http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/werkstat-a...
Personally I'd suggest something like Dodo Light fantastic or Supernatural for white but not as easy as the Jeffs to use.
http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/werkstat-a...
Personally I'd suggest something like Dodo Light fantastic or Supernatural for white but not as easy as the Jeffs to use.
Guys, many thanks for the inputs - late to the thread again tonight so will be looking closer at your advice over the weekend. The critical part on this is the longevity of the coating without spoiling the paint rather than enhancement, but it is good for me to understand the art of the possible through the various products, maybe getting something done now till the weather warms up for the more permanent coating, so many thanks all.
Hi Lewis - yeah MX-5 seems to be the answer to all problems. Took step-daughter to view it this evening. She loved the colour and condition, so it is now bought. Due to DVLA issues with personalised reg plates going to retention and prior owner clawing RFL back (and failing with timing of both), it's likely to be a little while before it is road legal with tax etc. Had a good look under showroom lights and the car is absolutely unmarked except the tiniest kerb (10 x 2mm) scratch on NSF wheel extremity and it's bone dry inside and in the boot. Will get it on a ramp when I get it home and look at the underside to work out what's done / what to do there. It's historically a weak point on the MX-5.
S-D is absolutely over the moon, excited and sending pictures all over the place which is a really nice reaction to see. My missus is a bit narked as I have just spunked £many-thousands of the home improvement / re-carpet budget on the car.
I feel a restful, low-DIY spring coming on.
Hi Lewis - yeah MX-5 seems to be the answer to all problems. Took step-daughter to view it this evening. She loved the colour and condition, so it is now bought. Due to DVLA issues with personalised reg plates going to retention and prior owner clawing RFL back (and failing with timing of both), it's likely to be a little while before it is road legal with tax etc. Had a good look under showroom lights and the car is absolutely unmarked except the tiniest kerb (10 x 2mm) scratch on NSF wheel extremity and it's bone dry inside and in the boot. Will get it on a ramp when I get it home and look at the underside to work out what's done / what to do there. It's historically a weak point on the MX-5.
S-D is absolutely over the moon, excited and sending pictures all over the place which is a really nice reaction to see. My missus is a bit narked as I have just spunked £many-thousands of the home improvement / re-carpet budget on the car.
I feel a restful, low-DIY spring coming on.
Edited by SeeFive on Saturday 25th January 01:13
SeeFive said:
Took step-daughter to view it this evening. She loved the colour and condition, so it is now bought.
S-D is absolutely over the moon, excited and sending pictures all over the place which is a really nice reaction to see. My missus is a bit narked as I have just spunked £many-thousands of the home improvement / re-carpet budget on the car.
I feel a restful, low-DIY spring coming on.
Good to hear it got the right reaction from the SD.S-D is absolutely over the moon, excited and sending pictures all over the place which is a really nice reaction to see. My missus is a bit narked as I have just spunked £many-thousands of the home improvement / re-carpet budget on the car.
I feel a restful, low-DIY spring coming on.
Edited by SeeFive on Saturday 25th January 01:13
Love your thought process on how to deal with DIY overload.
SeeFive said:
Thanks Andrew.
I have just had a look at videos and some writing for both product sets. Bit tired so will have another more detailed (no pun) read later.
Seeing Kelly apply the gtechniq EXO V1 on that Enzo made it look very simple. Panel temperatures are clearly very important, but my guess is that it would not necessarily need someone with Kelly's immense skill to get this on the paint to a good finish. Getting the paint right first is a different story however.
Many thanks for the pointers. I may need it to warm up a bit first, but it looks like a sensible recommendation - thanks again.
Hey my ears where burning and now i know why I have just had a look at videos and some writing for both product sets. Bit tired so will have another more detailed (no pun) read later.
Seeing Kelly apply the gtechniq EXO V1 on that Enzo made it look very simple. Panel temperatures are clearly very important, but my guess is that it would not necessarily need someone with Kelly's immense skill to get this on the paint to a good finish. Getting the paint right first is a different story however.
Many thanks for the pointers. I may need it to warm up a bit first, but it looks like a sensible recommendation - thanks again.
short and sweet as very busy of late
http://www.gtspirit.com/2014/01/23/iconic-wilton-h...
These more recent coatings (nano type) have been around for alot less time than the main stream waxes(remember car wax has been around over 100 years), waxes have been tested and developed to death,where as nano/crystal coatings are still in the earlish stages.
what we have noticed is the prep has to be far far better for best coating performance also paint finish has to be better than if using a glaze and wax (another large subject),you need understanding of the product being applied,the paint material appling to, the application variations time,temp,humidity,curing times etc.
Its possible to increase or reduce the performance of such a coating by changing or not understanding one of the above listed.
we have done countless tests using "real" life situations on staffs cars , my own work van, we even have panels on the roof of the KDS building wearing many different coatings ,another in the srubs of the outskirts of the KDS building.
we have even had the owners of the 2 companies spoke about in this thread ie gtechniq and nanolex here at KDS trying out new versions or revisions of their coatings on my demo car,yes i bought a jap soft paint car just to sit outside in all weathers for testing of these hard wearing coatings.
These coatings can really outlast waxes and sealents with the correct application and correct simple aftercare which so many fail to either advise or understand.
OH BTW its now Exo V2 in small bottles the Exo V1 is now gone , the application of V2 is very different to V1 too.
V2 is not so temp sensitive (we still like to apply above 15degc thou) but its needs far more pre cleaning to bond correctly (it had far less cleaning solvents built in)
Lastly these different coatings (one brand to another) can have sligtly different application methods ie 30 second dwell buff off fully light pressure , 1 minute dwell light wipe leave residue dwell 1 minute fully buff off with meduim pressure, this is how slight the changes are when comparing to a wax application its tiny.
get the 2 applications the wrong way round the coating wont give its best.
Kelly
Craikeybaby said:
Are these new coating suitable for home application, or do you really need to be in a warm workshop? Do you need to leave them to cure?
here is the problem i cant say yes or no as it totally depends on which/what product your using.Waxes are so easy by comparison,lets say far less fussy they can be used at all temps, will work if left to dwell to long or to short.
Dont get me wrong its possible to half the durability of waxes maybe even less than half by poor application, but considering the cost of most waxes per application is very low , and waxes need repeat application from 1 week to 3 months (in every day outside storage useage) then a change in performance of the wax is not really much of an issue.
If you consider some nano products can last up to 2 years, and as short as 9 months in the harshest conditions and no after care this is easliy 8 times longer even more when some show waxes only last a week,(this is dependant of wax being used colour of car and if its sits in strong sun light mid summer, remember trees and plants are constantly re-coating "topping up" the wax coating to stop their leaves drying out).
The more durably long lasting a product is (not clamed durability) the harder it becomes to apply correctly.
Car paint itself is not "for ever" and has a life span so you could even say this is a long life protection coating as thats exactly what it is.
nano products are getting closer and closer to car paint, we have a lacquer (testing) with built in sealent which has to be applied the same way as painting a car.
So to repoint totally depends on the product being used , the person application and lastly following applications guide lines and process.
kelly
Hi Lewis - I checked the wheels thoroughly yesterday, immaculate apart from one tiny bit of kerb damage which I will address. Even the wheel nuts are ok which is rare for MX5's apparently. Yes, I will use a wheel protector - some of the paint stuff discussed earlier seems to be able to act as both in addition to the Poorboys wheel products.
Kelly - Wow, thanks for the detailed input - sorry about the ears. I am always amazed how much of your expertise you are prepared to share with the rest of us on here - very generous of you. I'm glad it was you and not me getting that wrap off the Veyron.
Yeah, I spotted that you said you are testing these products on your company cars and panels on the roof from the video demo on the Enzo, but I had not realised that this technology was as immature as you suggest in your post - guess you couldn't given the situation when filming. I am not too concerned about managing a reasonably proficient application to the manufaturer's instructions - I have a car bodywork / painting background, but from distant cellulose days. I did a nice day with Peter & Wayne Darwell at Mech Spray a while back as an intro to the more modern ways of prep / painting - fell in love with the Festool DA and Wayne's sprayguns / oven - knocks my old Devilbiss stuff into a cocked hat! Consequently, I am quite happy to prep as required for the product, obviously not to your high standards but a reasonably fastidious amateur level. Without reading the instructions, I am assuming it's old product removal/panel wipe rather than massive orange peel correction/flatting etc which is necessary.
The attraction to me after a scout aroung the web for paint care product types was the longevity over trad waxes. In terms of ongoing care, I am happy to supply the S-D with the right shampoos to use, but the chances of her applying anything greater than that on a regular basis (unless it is simple and infrequent "spray and wipe") are pretty slim. I guess I was just concerned about these products on soft Mazda 2k paint, quite how yellow they may make brilliant white appear, and if they were really sensitive to environment and only pro-shop applications. Your vids with the manufacturers pointed to from then other folks advice told me a lot.
My challenge now will be to find a dust free environment to apply and cure for the products that are open for a longer time. My garage has been a woodwork shop (think New Yankee Workshop style machinery) for a few years now, so the dust levels are really grim even after a damp down. Still, I guess on a still day, and given that I am not running compressed air equipment, it should be ok - maybe I'll sheet the area directly above the car in case. I just need to move half a ton of table saw before the car will fit inside!!
Thanks again folks for all the input - much appreciated.
Kelly - Wow, thanks for the detailed input - sorry about the ears.
I am always amazed how much of your expertise you are prepared to share with the rest of us on here - very generous of you. I'm glad it was you and not me getting that wrap off the Veyron. Yeah, I spotted that you said you are testing these products on your company cars and panels on the roof from the video demo on the Enzo, but I had not realised that this technology was as immature as you suggest in your post - guess you couldn't given the situation when filming. I am not too concerned about managing a reasonably proficient application to the manufaturer's instructions - I have a car bodywork / painting background, but from distant cellulose days. I did a nice day with Peter & Wayne Darwell at Mech Spray a while back as an intro to the more modern ways of prep / painting - fell in love with the Festool DA and Wayne's sprayguns / oven - knocks my old Devilbiss stuff into a cocked hat! Consequently, I am quite happy to prep as required for the product, obviously not to your high standards but a reasonably fastidious amateur level. Without reading the instructions, I am assuming it's old product removal/panel wipe rather than massive orange peel correction/flatting etc which is necessary.
The attraction to me after a scout aroung the web for paint care product types was the longevity over trad waxes. In terms of ongoing care, I am happy to supply the S-D with the right shampoos to use, but the chances of her applying anything greater than that on a regular basis (unless it is simple and infrequent "spray and wipe") are pretty slim. I guess I was just concerned about these products on soft Mazda 2k paint, quite how yellow they may make brilliant white appear, and if they were really sensitive to environment and only pro-shop applications. Your vids with the manufacturers pointed to from then other folks advice told me a lot.
My challenge now will be to find a dust free environment to apply and cure for the products that are open for a longer time. My garage has been a woodwork shop (think New Yankee Workshop style machinery) for a few years now, so the dust levels are really grim even after a damp down. Still, I guess on a still day, and given that I am not running compressed air equipment, it should be ok - maybe I'll sheet the area directly above the car in case. I just need to move half a ton of table saw before the car will fit inside!!
Thanks again folks for all the input - much appreciated.
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