EK3 Running problems

EK3 Running problems

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Discussion

GBTurbo

Original Poster:

247 posts

171 months

Monday 24th February 2014
quotequote all
Hi I was wondering if anyone could help me out,

I've got a Honda Civic EK3 1.5 VTEC-E and has been faultless until last week, basically driving home it lost all power and was running really rough like a misfire. Managed to limp home and have been trying to solve the problem since.

From a cold start, will fast idle fine and engine runs smooth for about a minute/minute and a half
When the idle starts to come down, begins to misfire slightly, and gets worse and worse.

Car is basically un driveable, no power at all.

No CEL, no codes stored (shorting out the 2 pin diagnostics plug)

Cannot visually see anything wrong, oil and coolant ok.

Removed plugs and all look ok, checked leads and they all have a strong spark, distributor looks fine?

Tested the lambda sensor as per

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QM2jO0_Cah0

Seams to react quickly up to 0.85v and back down.

Anyone else have any ideas? Would be really grateful for any clues.

Don't want to throw loads of money at it when I can hopefully logically test sensors etc.

Thanks everyone

Nersha

143 posts

131 months

Tuesday 25th February 2014
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I had misfiring on my Integra at low revs, however it gave me a CEL (if left long enough misfiring), like you the plugs were fine. Turned out to be a faulty fuel injector, so that's what I'd look at next.

GBTurbo

Original Poster:

247 posts

171 months

Wednesday 26th February 2014
quotequote all
Thanks for the suggestion, I drove about 15miles home and it didn't throw a CEL but will check the injectors out.

One thing I noticed yesterday is I disconnected the lambda plug yesterday and it made no difference to the running of the car.

It seams to be something the ecu takes a reading from as the car is beginning to warm up.

I believe the ecu ignores the lambda sensor until it starts to get into its operating temperature, which would make sense but its testing as working and disconnecting it didn't make any difference...?

Update -

Checked the injectors, all 4 read nearly the same about 14.5ohms, have 12v at the harness for each one.

I only had a very small voltage at the lambda sensor plug, like 0.35v?

I was expecting more..? Maybe a break in the wiring?

All fuses were checked today and all ok.

Edited by GBTurbo on Wednesday 26th February 16:12

TobyLaRohne

5,713 posts

206 months

Thursday 27th February 2014
quotequote all
Interesting, I have a similar problem in my EP3 race car, its fine when cold but when it gets upto temp it starts missing and has no power. Although it idles fine. As soon as you try the throttle it starts acting up.

I've checked the tps and thats operating fine.

I'll let you know if I find out what it was, similarly if you could do the same it would be appreciated. I'm swapping the coil packs out to double check thats not a problem, after that I'm looking into the fuel pump being dodgy and the injectors.

GBTurbo

Original Poster:

247 posts

171 months

Wednesday 5th March 2014
quotequote all
Checked the coil today got the correct readings.

Replaced the distribution cap, the old one had a slight crack in the corner.

Checked all vaccum lines, all ok.

No difference at all.

Going to replace the rotor arm (looked worn) and leads and then do a compression test.

Already bought another run around so the civic will be going either fixed or scrapped! Would like to get to the bottom of it though.

Things discovered -

Car will idle fine from cold, as car warms up, misfire gets worse and worse.

If I start car from cold and drive straight away, within 50m the car misfires as described.

So seams to be when the car warms up (if left from idle) or when load is placed on the engine.

Fuel pump/blocked exhaust?



TobyLaRohne

5,713 posts

206 months

Thursday 6th March 2014
quotequote all
Fuel pump or injectors? Did you check the ignition when it was warmed up or cold? I have been told electrics can get a bit tempremental when warmed up.

Have you checked the obvious things like all the plugs for the air sensors are firmly connected? Mine was idling high until we found the Inlet Air Control Valve was off, as soon as we plugged it in it dropped and was fine

GBTurbo

Original Poster:

247 posts

171 months

Thursday 6th March 2014
quotequote all
Ignition system was checked when cold.

Bought a compression tester today, got 220-220-210-220psi

This seams on the high side to me, checked the manual and the service limits are 135-200psi.

This was done on a warm engine, throttle held open, 4-5 cranks per cylinder.

Fluid in bores/excessive carbon build up/badly adjusted valve clearances according to the internet for overly high compression.

As far as I have checked, all plugs are connected and disconnecting certain ones does definitely bring the engine check light on.

Perhaps now fuel pump/injectors?

On the plus side I now have a compression tester.

GBTurbo

Original Poster:

247 posts

171 months

Wednesday 12th March 2014
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Changed the rotor arm and leads today, car is now 100%!

Just goes to show always worth doing the simple things.

Thanks for your help

TobyLaRohne

5,713 posts

206 months

Thursday 13th March 2014
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GBTurbo said:
Changed the rotor arm and leads today, car is now 100%!

Just goes to show always worth doing the simple things.

Thanks for your help
Similarly I changed the coil packs and it seems to have resolved the issue (fingers crossed).
Next shakedown for me is 5th April.

GBTurbo

Original Poster:

247 posts

171 months

Monday 24th March 2014
quotequote all
Glad to here it, the thing that threw me was it had been running 100% up until that point, I've had cars before with a slightly dodgy tickover, slight misfire etc and it would only be for a second or so until it got worse and I sorted it.

One clio I had you could see it tracking all over the place with the bonnet up (when dark obviously) and it only had a very very slight misfire.

It was the all of a sudden rough running that threw me but there you go! All good now