Wood work top sealing conundrum

[TonyHetherington]

("walking" ?! I meant "talking" )

Yep - I'm an anal git anyway, so will certainly be doing that (in fact, far more regularly. They're new, so lots at the moment, but over time, 6 months perhaps)

[paulrockliffe]

Following on from the discussion of tanin-induced darkness; would a wood other than Oak be a better bet? If so, what's good and what's bad?

Thanks!

[paulrockliffe]

Bump bump.

Options appear to be beech, walnut, iroko, cherry, bamboo. Leaning towards walnut or iroko as the others are a bit too light, but intersted in general thoughts really.

Ta.

[Simpo Two]

It's up to which one you like the look of most. It's a large visual chunk so consider the whole room and colour of units.

Iroko is probably the most indestructible.

[Wozy68]

The best? Easy, Iroko. Just ordered the timber in for mine in our utility.

To be honest you really don't need to oil it, other than for appearance.

[loughran]

Teak !!

Do they still make teak ? Teak worktops are/were just marvelous, Burmese beautiful but Javanese spectacular.

My experience with cherry, maple and beech is that it too will go black if left unattended for any length of time. More of a rot/spalting type problem than the tanin type. And unless you prefer that battered worn out look, American walnut is too soft for kitchen worksurfaces.

Practically though, iroko is the way to go.

I'd be interested to hear if bamboo is a contender. Is it reconstituted ?

[paulrockliffe]

Cool, that's useful. No idea what the bamboo is, I presumed it is similar to the floors you can get. Will float the irokok in the direction of the Project Manager and see what the feedback is.

[Simpo Two]

There is plenty of teak in garden furniture, despite what anyone says about the rainforests. Both teak and iroko are oily woods that are naturally water repellent.

[Wozy68]

loughran said:

Teak !!

Do they still make teak ? Teak worktops are/were just marvelous, Burmese beautiful but Javanese spectacular.

My experience with cherry, maple and beech is that it too will go black if left unattended for any length of time. More of a rot/spalting type problem than the tanin type. And unless you prefer that battered worn out look, American walnut is too soft for kitchen worksurfaces.

Practically though, iroko is the way to go.

I'd be interested to hear if bamboo is a contender. Is it reconstituted ?

Teak, always, but can you still buy it here? I haven't used it in many years.

I will one day get around to building my own boat, and the dream would be a Teak deck, but I'm assuming if you can still buy it, it would cost serious money.

[Simpo Two]

Wozy68 said:

I will one day get around to building my own boat, and the dream would be a Teak deck, but I'm assuming if you can still buy it, it would cost serious money.

Have you seen http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... ?

[Wozy68]

Simpo Two said:

Wozy68 said:

I will one day get around to building my own boat, and the dream would be a Teak deck, but I'm assuming if you can still buy it, it would cost serious money.

Have you seen http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... ?

That is exactly what I had in mind, I'l browse the thread later tonight. Thanks

[paulrockliffe]

Iroko arrived today, probably need to get the new kitchen ordered! Should it be stained or anything before vanishing with the PV67 stuff?

[Wozy68]

paulrockliffe said:

Iroko arrived today, probably need to get the new kitchen ordered! Should it be stained or anything before vanishing with the PV67 stuff?

IROKO AND NOT OILED? Sacrilege.

[paulrockliffe]

The instructions say to oil it. Everyday for six weeks, then every three months. Piston Heads days to varnish it 3 times and let that be the end of it. If the varnish is good, it makes sense right.

[loughran]

I'd be tempted to use the Pistonheads recommended varnish.

I would not be tempted to oil anything once a day for six weeks... are you sure those instructions are not for The Turkish wrestling mini break you may or may not have booked earlier in the week ?

[Wozy68]

paulrockliffe said:

The instructions say to oil it. Everyday for six weeks, then every three months. Piston Heads days to varnish it 3 times and let that be the end of it. If the varnish is good, it makes sense right.

Their aving a giraffe mate. Surely
When we.install we give them Two or three coats new and then tell the.customer to give the top another after 3 months, then another after another 3 months, then 6 months (unless the water stops beading) for.ever after.
Fine wire wall and away you go. Happy days.

Edit that's wool not wire wall, damn predictive text me

Edited by Wozy68 on Thursday 24th April 17:54

[AlexJ12]

I was told by someone a while back rule of thumb is...

Once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year.

I agree with wozy, it would be rude not to oil it.

Although I do know PV67 is as hard as nails, good for bar tops apparently.

[Sway]

Having gone for oak worktops and flooring, that's due to be fitted in a couple of weeks with no chance of changing (SWMBO would have kittens!) - what should I be doing to both worktop and floor to keep it looking good?

We're going for 60mm Howdens worktop and matching upstand, and Ted Todd 'Almond' engineered flooring.

This place is bloody useful at times, I'd figured a few oilings over the first week or two, then once every couple of months and I'd be grand...