New Vixen Project

New Vixen Project

Author
Discussion

Grantura MKI

817 posts

157 months

Wednesday 25th November 2015
quotequote all
Yes, you may apply over your finished surface. The beauty of it is that you can block sand it and remove imperfections in the body without applying filler or many coats of surfacer....it is harder than both of the previous mentioned products.
You are correct in the resin and surfacer only on the body.
There are always more than one way to do things....I like bodies that last and look like they are NOT fiberglass when finished.
Best,
D.

anonymous-user

53 months

Thursday 26th November 2015
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V6Pushfit said:
TVRMs said:
So what happened to the interesting thread. Who requested it was killed off and why?
It's the PH apocalypse I think
And I thought we were over it by ourselves now anyway?
We are all playing nice for now then smile


Astacus

3,363 posts

233 months

Thursday 26th November 2015
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I think big Al dropped by a couple of days ago and trimmed out the 'contentious' section

Astacus

3,363 posts

233 months

Thursday 26th November 2015
quotequote all
Grantura MKI said:
Yes, you may apply over your finished surface. The beauty of it is that you can block sand it and remove imperfections in the body without applying filler or many coats of surfacer....it is harder than both of the previous mentioned products.
You are correct in the resin and surfacer only on the body.
There are always more than one way to do things....I like bodies that last and look like they are NOT fiberglass when finished.
Best,
D.
David, is this a particular grade of gel coat or can one use standard gel coat for this application? When I tried this years ago I remember having problems with it remaining rather tacky. Also, how does one 'spray' gel coat? Does it require specialist equipment or can it be done with normal compressors and sprayguns?

Hullygully

85 posts

213 months

Saturday 28th November 2015
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Have any other Vixen owners suffered from knackered diffs? I'm on my 3rd, and that's with a breathless old smoker up front (the engine, not me)...

Dollyman1850

6,316 posts

249 months

Saturday 28th November 2015
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in a tuned vixen the old Sptfire unit becomes very much the weakest link. Some will say.. Buy an uprated LSD to go in etc but you will still need to re-build the full unit with all new bearings etc. Then you still have issues with 40 odd year old CWP's and tiddly little output shafts.

If you're tuning then the stronger the engine and box the more forces exerted on something else further down the driveline….The diff becomes next weakest..

if you've just been swapping in old diffs as replacements then you can only expect failures as they get to the end of their lives…

Adrian venn has contacts for stronger re-built units.

N.

hidetheelephants

23,737 posts

192 months

Saturday 28th November 2015
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chris52 said:
Dollyman1850 said:
i don't think it is so important to use gel coat with modern hard 2 packs.
My Dads car was on its original paint when I got it, Orange over a grey primer and that was pretty much it.
N.
I tend to agree with you here and didn't even consider applying any gel coat. To be honest I didn't think you could apply gel coat after the fact I thought it needed to be applied to a waxed hard surface and laminated or it wouldn't set properly. But then it was fibre glass baths I used to make and it was a long time ago but would have thought the process was very similar.
I'd have thought it would need to be waxed slip coat as ordinary gel coat won't set when exposed to air, although there may be other ways of doing it/types of gel coat now.

griff 200

509 posts

192 months

Sunday 29th November 2015
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You can of cause spray gel cote but needs good equipment I just brush on and then sand down works for me with no problems so far. There's lots of vids out there on gel repair on boats etc these will tell you all. Richard

Moto

1,230 posts

252 months

Sunday 29th November 2015
quotequote all
Dollyman1850 said:
in a tuned vixen the old Sptfire unit becomes very much the weakest link. Some will say.. Buy an uprated LSD to go in etc but you will still need to re-build the full unit with all new bearings etc. Then you still have issues with 40 odd year old CWP's and tiddly little output shafts.

If you're tuning then the stronger the engine and box the more forces exerted on something else further down the driveline….The diff becomes next weakest..

if you've just been swapping in old diffs as replacements then you can only expect failures as they get to the end of their lives…

Adrian venn has contacts for stronger re-built units.

N.
Neil, not sure if my diff is standard or not. I know the engine was modified in the 80's and is measuring 120-130bhp on the rollers. The gearbox was also upgraded to the stronger 2000e box at the same time. Are there any tell-tale signs I should look for to indicate whether the diff has been changed/modified.

Steve

anonymous-user

53 months

Sunday 29th November 2015
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The GT6 Diff is the one to go for. On Canley Classics there's a good ID chart to compare the stamped numbers to identify the GT6 ones. There is a stronger bearing carrier on some diffs and I think that's a good initial mod to greatly increase strength or can be fitted on rebuild if not already in there. A@ does this I believe.

chris52

Original Poster:

1,560 posts

182 months

Sunday 6th December 2015
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Engine now build Carbs cleaned and rebuilt although will need tuning when the engine is running.







Chris


Dollyman1850

6,316 posts

249 months

Sunday 6th December 2015
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chris52 said:
Engine now build Carbs cleaned and rebuilt although will need tuning when the engine is running.







Chris
Is that a steel 1 piece bottom pulley or a pressed one?? If the latter…It needs changing. looks good and the steel rocker posts plenty beefy. Are you going to dyno run in or just stick it in the car?
N.

pete.reeve

516 posts

282 months

Sunday 6th December 2015
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looks steel to me. I know a man that can dyno it if you want?

Edited by pete.reeve on Sunday 6th December 18:18

chris52

Original Poster:

1,560 posts

182 months

Sunday 6th December 2015
quotequote all
Yes the bottom Pulley is a steel one. Hadn't thought about about having it dyno run in and tested TBH was just going to stick it in the car but maybe an option?

Moto

1,230 posts

252 months

Monday 7th December 2015
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Chris, Making good progress. Is there a planned date for completion?

chris52

Original Poster:

1,560 posts

182 months

Monday 7th December 2015
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I don't have any date as such would be nice to be ready for the pre 80s but don't think it will be the 2016 one lol. Should get the body back soon and then I can get cracking. The chassis is pretty much ready but will need the brackets welding on for the roll cage then of for blasting powder coating If I can get That all done by the end of January I will be happy. Then it's just a case of refitting now that all the messy oily work is just about done.
Chris

Edited by chris52 on Monday 7th December 19:33

anonymous-user

53 months

Monday 14th December 2015
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Dollyman1850 said:
Is that a steel 1 piece bottom pulley or a pressed one?? If the latter…It needs changing. looks good and the steel rocker posts plenty beefy. Are you going to dyno run in or just stick it in the car?
N.
Whats up with pressed pulleys then are they too weak, or is it buckling that's the problem ?

Dollyman1850

6,316 posts

249 months

Monday 14th December 2015
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V6Pushfit said:
Whats up with pressed pulleys then are they too weak, or is it buckling that's the problem ?
On tuned crossflows they have a tendency to separate.
N.

anonymous-user

53 months

Monday 14th December 2015
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Dollyman1850 said:
On tuned crossflows they have a tendency to separate.
N.
A OK many thanks!

plasticpig72

1,647 posts

148 months

Tuesday 15th December 2015
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did some have a cast pulley like on Lotus Twin Cams
Alan