New Vixen Project
Discussion
Yes, you may apply over your finished surface. The beauty of it is that you can block sand it and remove imperfections in the body without applying filler or many coats of surfacer....it is harder than both of the previous mentioned products.
You are correct in the resin and surfacer only on the body.
There are always more than one way to do things....I like bodies that last and look like they are NOT fiberglass when finished.
Best,
D.
You are correct in the resin and surfacer only on the body.
There are always more than one way to do things....I like bodies that last and look like they are NOT fiberglass when finished.
Best,
D.
Grantura MKI said:
Yes, you may apply over your finished surface. The beauty of it is that you can block sand it and remove imperfections in the body without applying filler or many coats of surfacer....it is harder than both of the previous mentioned products.
You are correct in the resin and surfacer only on the body.
There are always more than one way to do things....I like bodies that last and look like they are NOT fiberglass when finished.
Best,
D.
David, is this a particular grade of gel coat or can one use standard gel coat for this application? When I tried this years ago I remember having problems with it remaining rather tacky. Also, how does one 'spray' gel coat? Does it require specialist equipment or can it be done with normal compressors and sprayguns?You are correct in the resin and surfacer only on the body.
There are always more than one way to do things....I like bodies that last and look like they are NOT fiberglass when finished.
Best,
D.
in a tuned vixen the old Sptfire unit becomes very much the weakest link. Some will say.. Buy an uprated LSD to go in etc but you will still need to re-build the full unit with all new bearings etc. Then you still have issues with 40 odd year old CWP's and tiddly little output shafts.
If you're tuning then the stronger the engine and box the more forces exerted on something else further down the driveline….The diff becomes next weakest..
if you've just been swapping in old diffs as replacements then you can only expect failures as they get to the end of their lives…
Adrian venn has contacts for stronger re-built units.
N.
If you're tuning then the stronger the engine and box the more forces exerted on something else further down the driveline….The diff becomes next weakest..
if you've just been swapping in old diffs as replacements then you can only expect failures as they get to the end of their lives…
Adrian venn has contacts for stronger re-built units.
N.
chris52 said:
Dollyman1850 said:
i don't think it is so important to use gel coat with modern hard 2 packs.
My Dads car was on its original paint when I got it, Orange over a grey primer and that was pretty much it.
N.
I tend to agree with you here and didn't even consider applying any gel coat. To be honest I didn't think you could apply gel coat after the fact I thought it needed to be applied to a waxed hard surface and laminated or it wouldn't set properly. But then it was fibre glass baths I used to make and it was a long time ago but would have thought the process was very similar.My Dads car was on its original paint when I got it, Orange over a grey primer and that was pretty much it.
N.
Dollyman1850 said:
in a tuned vixen the old Sptfire unit becomes very much the weakest link. Some will say.. Buy an uprated LSD to go in etc but you will still need to re-build the full unit with all new bearings etc. Then you still have issues with 40 odd year old CWP's and tiddly little output shafts.
If you're tuning then the stronger the engine and box the more forces exerted on something else further down the driveline….The diff becomes next weakest..
if you've just been swapping in old diffs as replacements then you can only expect failures as they get to the end of their lives…
Adrian venn has contacts for stronger re-built units.
N.
Neil, not sure if my diff is standard or not. I know the engine was modified in the 80's and is measuring 120-130bhp on the rollers. The gearbox was also upgraded to the stronger 2000e box at the same time. Are there any tell-tale signs I should look for to indicate whether the diff has been changed/modified.If you're tuning then the stronger the engine and box the more forces exerted on something else further down the driveline….The diff becomes next weakest..
if you've just been swapping in old diffs as replacements then you can only expect failures as they get to the end of their lives…
Adrian venn has contacts for stronger re-built units.
N.
Steve
The GT6 Diff is the one to go for. On Canley Classics there's a good ID chart to compare the stamped numbers to identify the GT6 ones. There is a stronger bearing carrier on some diffs and I think that's a good initial mod to greatly increase strength or can be fitted on rebuild if not already in there. A@ does this I believe.
chris52 said:
Engine now build Carbs cleaned and rebuilt although will need tuning when the engine is running.
Chris
Is that a steel 1 piece bottom pulley or a pressed one?? If the latter…It needs changing. looks good and the steel rocker posts plenty beefy. Are you going to dyno run in or just stick it in the car?Chris
N.
I don't have any date as such would be nice to be ready for the pre 80s but don't think it will be the 2016 one lol. Should get the body back soon and then I can get cracking. The chassis is pretty much ready but will need the brackets welding on for the roll cage then of for blasting powder coating If I can get That all done by the end of January I will be happy. Then it's just a case of refitting now that all the messy oily work is just about done.
Chris
Chris
Edited by chris52 on Monday 7th December 19:33
Dollyman1850 said:
Is that a steel 1 piece bottom pulley or a pressed one?? If the latter…It needs changing. looks good and the steel rocker posts plenty beefy. Are you going to dyno run in or just stick it in the car?
N.
Whats up with pressed pulleys then are they too weak, or is it buckling that's the problem ?N.
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