£10k elise, problems?
Discussion
I've basically wanted an elise since they came out. I was put off it for a while when my friend wrapped his around a tree, but it may be time to scratch the itch.
It seems that £10k gets me the bottom of the barrel S2 examples, mostly with high mileage, so I'm wondering how these engines handle high mileages, and what to look out for, and just general reliability. I've seen mentions of mayonnaise on the inside of the oil cap, and details about cam belt changes, but beyond that not a huge amount else.
I'm considering selling my C63, and if I do that first I'll probably up the budget a little bit. Are the VVT engines worth pushing for?
This is probably just going to be a weekend toy, if I can swing it, so also wondering how they handle sitting idle for periods of time between usages.
It seems that £10k gets me the bottom of the barrel S2 examples, mostly with high mileage, so I'm wondering how these engines handle high mileages, and what to look out for, and just general reliability. I've seen mentions of mayonnaise on the inside of the oil cap, and details about cam belt changes, but beyond that not a huge amount else.
I'm considering selling my C63, and if I do that first I'll probably up the budget a little bit. Are the VVT engines worth pushing for?
This is probably just going to be a weekend toy, if I can swing it, so also wondering how they handle sitting idle for periods of time between usages.
You'd get tonnes more info/advice on Lotus here: http://forums.seloc.org/
Thanks, very handy stuff. I've driven the first of the first S1's, I guess I'll have to play with a couple of S2's. I always loved the looks of the S1 but the S2 just seems soooo much nicer. Being based the majority of the time in central london I'm not quite sure what the heck I'm going to do with it (especially since I also have a dog!).
Good you mentioned the hard top, I'd almost forgotten to stick that on the list, I do remember trying to put the roof on the S1, and giving up after 15 mins in a slight drizzle!
Good you mentioned the hard top, I'd almost forgotten to stick that on the list, I do remember trying to put the roof on the S1, and giving up after 15 mins in a slight drizzle!
Well said re S1, theyre virtually rock bottom at the moment but starting to rise here and there. Simple car, excellent handling ala lotus ,very basic inside but one step up in every day sports cars to the caterham in rawness.....An excellent buy if you were going to keep it for 10+ years as well, they'll be near the baby elan if you wait long enough :-)
The S2 roof system is something to consider as you can literally take it off/put it on at traffic lights (unlike the S1!). l had a early S2 & preferred the look of it & they give you so much more fun IMO compared to higher powered cars as you get more feeling of speed etc without the need to lose your licence.
very interesting stuff, and very happy to hear that there's a general lack of issues!
I think I'd go S2, if this happens. Just been given the inside line on a 55 plate Boxter S, but very aware that it could be a money pit, so will see what sort of deal I can get!
Very torn right now, thinking of heading to a dealer and giving one a blast...
I think I'd go S2, if this happens. Just been given the inside line on a 55 plate Boxter S, but very aware that it could be a money pit, so will see what sort of deal I can get!
Very torn right now, thinking of heading to a dealer and giving one a blast...
You have to buy pretty carefully at that end of the market, but then I guess you have to buy pretty carefully in most of the market. There's a number of common issues to check for:
- Most obviously, head gasket failure (it is a K-series, after all) - check for white gunk in the oil and in the coolant expansion tank. If the head gasket has been replaced, find out by whom using what parts and performing what checks. Don't discount a car if it is showing signs of failure, it's not an expensive thing to fix, but do budget to get it fixed (typically around 500 quid).
- Check that the fans work on all speeds. The control unit sits in a puddle on early S2s so it doesn't last long. It's a cheap part but a clam off job to replace (although some people claim it's possible without taking off the clam on non-AC cars, it'd be very tight).
- Check the alternator is charging the battery - it's located too close to the exhaust so the voltage regulation circuits tend to get fried.
- Check the radiator for leaks - the end-caps can crack (although they usually go suddenly they do occasionally leak a bit first).
- I guess check when the belts were last done. The cam-belt interval on the K-series in the Elise is quite short (Lotus recommend four years, despite the handbook on early cars saying six).
- Make sure it drives right. The suspension tends to show significant wear somewhere around the 60k mile mark and a refresh will cost you a good chunk of the cost of the car. Once you get up to around 100k miles, there's a significant chance that the steering rack will need replacing, too.
Don't get too hung up on service histories. Independents are often better than main dealers, and some of the best maintained cars on the market have been serviced by their owners so they haven't been to a garage in years. Personally, I'd be looking to buy privately rather than from a dealer. I think you can get a much better idea of how the car has been treated if you meet the previous owner, plus of course you'll get more for your money.
As someone said above the VX220 is well worth a look too. It's largely the same car and the badge means it's cheaper for what you're getting.
- Most obviously, head gasket failure (it is a K-series, after all) - check for white gunk in the oil and in the coolant expansion tank. If the head gasket has been replaced, find out by whom using what parts and performing what checks. Don't discount a car if it is showing signs of failure, it's not an expensive thing to fix, but do budget to get it fixed (typically around 500 quid).
- Check that the fans work on all speeds. The control unit sits in a puddle on early S2s so it doesn't last long. It's a cheap part but a clam off job to replace (although some people claim it's possible without taking off the clam on non-AC cars, it'd be very tight).
- Check the alternator is charging the battery - it's located too close to the exhaust so the voltage regulation circuits tend to get fried.
- Check the radiator for leaks - the end-caps can crack (although they usually go suddenly they do occasionally leak a bit first).
- I guess check when the belts were last done. The cam-belt interval on the K-series in the Elise is quite short (Lotus recommend four years, despite the handbook on early cars saying six).
- Make sure it drives right. The suspension tends to show significant wear somewhere around the 60k mile mark and a refresh will cost you a good chunk of the cost of the car. Once you get up to around 100k miles, there's a significant chance that the steering rack will need replacing, too.
Don't get too hung up on service histories. Independents are often better than main dealers, and some of the best maintained cars on the market have been serviced by their owners so they haven't been to a garage in years. Personally, I'd be looking to buy privately rather than from a dealer. I think you can get a much better idea of how the car has been treated if you meet the previous owner, plus of course you'll get more for your money.
As someone said above the VX220 is well worth a look too. It's largely the same car and the badge means it's cheaper for what you're getting.
Edited by kambites on Thursday 3rd April 08:59
i wouldnt be looking at bottom of the barrel elises, even though the car is very basic inside. Its still an exotic and parts arent as cheap as you might expect. I have owned my elise as a daily driver for the past 4 years and it isnt uncommon to pay out 1000.00 per year keeping it on the road which is including everything except insurance and petrol. as an example if the plastic radiator cracks which is a common issue and should be upgraded to an all alloy one when you have the chance (300.00) you are looking at up to 10 hours labor charge since all the bolts holding the front clam will be seized. HGF is something to think about on the early s2s as well and can cost between 400 and 1200 depending on how early its caught. set of dampers you are looking at 750.00 for the set, tyres are 120 a corner. If you cna do the spanner work yourself then you will safe alot of money since most jobs on the elise are labor intensive and thats where the costs are.
I think that buying a bottom of the barrel elise may end up costing you more in that first year than you expect.
but dont overlook actual ownership issues either,if its your only car.
you need a garage or drive to keep it on. dont leave it out on the road.
you need to consider where you are driving and what kind of parking arrangements will be available.
don't parallel park the car if you can help it.
the handling is twitchy in the wet and extra care is needed.
in 4 years of daily driving (7000k per year) the elise has never let me down but i have always been on top of what needs doing and it just had its C service at 520.00
Consider what specialists are available to you, always take the car to a specialist. However i would avoid dealerships
check the water levels regularly, it should be filled to the minimum line on a k-series elise. (the elise has more hoses and more water requiring more expansion in the tank)
overall you are ok with speed bumps however really large ones can scrape the front of the car.
when parking in a space dont try to park the overhang over the cerb because some cerbs will hit the front end.
I think that buying a bottom of the barrel elise may end up costing you more in that first year than you expect.
but dont overlook actual ownership issues either,if its your only car.
you need a garage or drive to keep it on. dont leave it out on the road.
you need to consider where you are driving and what kind of parking arrangements will be available.
don't parallel park the car if you can help it.
the handling is twitchy in the wet and extra care is needed.
in 4 years of daily driving (7000k per year) the elise has never let me down but i have always been on top of what needs doing and it just had its C service at 520.00
Consider what specialists are available to you, always take the car to a specialist. However i would avoid dealerships
check the water levels regularly, it should be filled to the minimum line on a k-series elise. (the elise has more hoses and more water requiring more expansion in the tank)
overall you are ok with speed bumps however really large ones can scrape the front of the car.
when parking in a space dont try to park the overhang over the cerb because some cerbs will hit the front end.
Edited by lotus83 on Tuesday 8th April 17:30
Edited by lotus83 on Tuesday 8th April 17:31
Edited by lotus83 on Tuesday 8th April 17:33
Edited by lotus83 on Tuesday 8th April 17:35
Edited by lotus83 on Tuesday 8th April 17:37
I'm on £2000 a year all in (as a low mileage daily driver), since I've had mine. I have been servicing it myself for nearly half that time, though. 
That's gonna jump up a few hundred this year though, it needs a suspension refresh and new tyres; plus I need to work out how to do the belts.
It's a time-taking car to work on, but it's also generally an easy one. Access is exceptionally good once you've got the knack of getting the clams off.
That's gonna jump up a few hundred this year though, it needs a suspension refresh and new tyres; plus I need to work out how to do the belts.
It's a time-taking car to work on, but it's also generally an easy one. Access is exceptionally good once you've got the knack of getting the clams off.
Edited by kambites on Tuesday 8th April 19:21
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