help clutch bleeding

help clutch bleeding

Author
Discussion

spatz

Original Poster:

1,783 posts

186 months

Monday 31st March 2014
quotequote all
again I am having big troubles with the clutch bleeding, I have the original ultima master cylinder
and the 997/996 turbo take cylinder. I am using hydraulic oil, since this is what is used in the Turbo.
What is the best method ?

many thanks

F.C.

3,897 posts

208 months

Monday 31st March 2014
quotequote all
This:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Gunson-G4062-Eezibleed-Kit...

It basically pressurizes the whole system and removes trapped air in a matter of a minute or so pumping the pedal.

Steve_D

13,746 posts

258 months

Monday 31st March 2014
quotequote all
Being as we run the 'box differently to Porsche it may be that the bleed nipple is not truly at the top of the system.
If so then unbolt it and hold it in the correct position whilst bleeding.

Agreed an Easybleed is a good tool but make sure you only run it at about 10-15psi. It will take higher but the result is that it compresses the air bubbles making them smaller and more difficult to move through the system.

Steve

spatz

Original Poster:

1,783 posts

186 months

Monday 31st March 2014
quotequote all
thanks I have ordered it

will report back and yes I can remove the take cylinder and bring the bleed nipple at the top of the system.

pilbeam_mp62

955 posts

201 months

Monday 31st March 2014
quotequote all
You could also try jacking up the rear of the car so that the slave cylinder is the highest point of the system. That may help.

Edited - sorry, I think Steve's idea covers it...didn't read it carefully enough smile

Edited by pilbeam_mp62 on Wednesday 2nd April 06:48

Mr Pid

148 posts

170 months

Tuesday 1st April 2014
quotequote all
Need to remove the slave cylinder and bleed it with the bleed nipple on the top....... Then refit. This was the only way I could do it.

spatz

Original Poster:

1,783 posts

186 months

Wednesday 2nd April 2014
quotequote all
Mr Pid said:
Need to remove the slave cylinder and bleed it with the bleed nipple on the top....... Then refit. This was the only way I could do it.
exactly what I plan to do

thanks

Storer

5,024 posts

215 months

Wednesday 2nd April 2014
quotequote all
Does the clutch slave cylinder plunger come all the way out if you do this without fitting some sort of 'stop' to prevent it???

Paul

SchimmS

258 posts

258 months

Thursday 3rd April 2014
quotequote all
Storer said:
Does the clutch slave cylinder plunger come all the way out if you do this without fitting some sort of 'stop' to prevent it???

Paul
Yes it will and it`ll be a huge mess. That`s why you need to open the bleed nipple first ;-)

Mr Pid

148 posts

170 months

Thursday 3rd April 2014
quotequote all
...mine didnt... I am pretty sure it has a circlip to hold the piston in.

spatz

Original Poster:

1,783 posts

186 months

Monday 7th April 2014
quotequote all
ok here my report:

the original turbo take cylinder has a neat feature so you can take the rubber off and remove the push rod and then fix the cylinder
with a clamp. This way you can test your pedal before you mount the take cylinder in the gear box. I have the optional adapter and GT take cylinder from AB
but wanted to try if the original Porsche cylinder could be used as well.
I am using hydraulic oil, since this is what is used in the TURBO not brake fluid.
I had positioned the take cylinder bleeding nipple at the hightes point possible.
Put the easy bleed on the master cylinder and connected to the tire. Opened the bleed nipple and watching the air bubbles and
hydraulic oil coming out. Refilling tire repeated the process twice then - TEST passed with the clamp on. Now mounting the cylinder
with the push rod, make sure you hit the fork, first time I managed to position the push rod in a way it touched the gear box housing
somewhere, with no clutch function at all. The turbo clutch is somehow heavy and makes it easy to stall the engine, a tribute to the higher clamp
forces of the turbo pressure plate.

The eezi bleed can only be highly recommended, STIG should make this a sticky, since the clutch bleeding can be done in a few minutes
by one man with this cheap tool !!

UltimaCH

3,155 posts

189 months

Monday 7th April 2014
quotequote all
That's why most of us have one, not only for use with Ults but other vehicles too. biggrin

I use one from these people. It works perfectly:
http://www.motiveproducts.com/

Edited to add link


Edited by UltimaCH on Monday 7th April 11:23

F.C.

3,897 posts

208 months

Monday 7th April 2014
quotequote all
UltimaCH said:
That's why most of us have one, not only for use with Ults but other vehicles too. biggrin

I use one from these people. It works perfectly:
http://www.motiveproducts.com/

Edited to add link


Edited by UltimaCH on Monday 7th April 11:23
I like that self contained pump idea.
I've used my eezi bleed for years now, no problems but this self contained one could make things a little easier to access rather than using an old tyre to pressure the eezi bleed.
I just might fork out and retire my eezi bleed, it's well overdue.

Storer

5,024 posts

215 months

Monday 7th April 2014
quotequote all
Which model Of the Motive Products bleeder is suitable for the Ultima? The European?


Paul

UltimaCH

3,155 posts

189 months

Tuesday 8th April 2014
quotequote all
Yes I guess so. It works fine with my German cars wink

F.C.

3,897 posts

208 months

Tuesday 8th April 2014
quotequote all
Storer said:
Which model Of the Motive Products bleeder is suitable for the Ultima? The European?


Paul
Typically all you need is a spare cap of the type used on your car, this is drilled to take the end of the "bleeder" hose then its a small gasket and a nut.
Cheapest bleeder with an adapted cap is probably the most cost efficient.

spatz

Original Poster:

1,783 posts

186 months

Tuesday 8th April 2014
quotequote all
for the 25 euro the eezy bleed is costing not worth running around and searching for all the bits.