Critique my bathroom design

[KTF]

jep said:

What about a sliding door?

That one might have a problem staying closed

[jep]

KTF said:

That one might have a problem staying closed

bloody thumbsnap....

[brianb]

Origin Unknown said:

I'd look at having the toilet under the window creating more worktop space/storage, I also prefer the traditional toilet straight in front style

[dirty_dog]

Sorry I've nothing really to add but im definitely going to do a similar thing when we do ours. Only 1700*2100 with a door that opens out at the top of the stairs some great ideas on here.

[Origin Unknown]

Guys,

Any reason why I cannot use Kitchen carcasses in a bathroom? I want 900 tall units like I have in the kitchen so my plan is to:

• Reduce the depth by cutting them down, possible create a rabbet to refit backpanels and use standard wall mounts
• Use gloss white units and doors
• Glue mirrors to the door
• Add a third central kitchen unit hinge (I have already created a jig for the router to route these out from a previous project)
• Possible route out a void in the door behind the mirror to house a heat pack

I'll use a 600, 300 & another 600 unit and use 300 doors to minimise intrusion into the room

I assume that as long as all cuts are properly sealed against moisture ingress then they should work well.

[Origin Unknown]

Went with an L shaped bath rather than a P shared to match the squared angles of the opposing unit.

[Mandalore]

Origin Unknown said:

Went with an L shaped bath rather than a P shared to match the squared angles of the opposing unit.

So where? Are the towel rails going to be?

[igiveup]

Get more worktop space by cutting down soil stack to just below worktop and fit a durgo valve to it.

[Origin Unknown]

Mandalore said:

So where? Are the towel rails going to be?

Open to suggestions. Original plan was to install a towel rail where the glass shelves are at the end of the bath but being covered in towels and restricted space driving size will significantly reduce the output. Given the boxing for the stack pipe means the toilet is sufficiently far from the wall under the window, I thought I could put a radiator or towel rail there. There will be a towel ring to the right of the basin and a towel hook between the window and the glass shelving as depicted so you can grab the towel as you step from the bath/shower onto the floor.

Edited by Origin Unknown on Sunday 9th November 22:02

[Origin Unknown]

igiveup said:

Get more worktop space by cutting down soil stack to just below worktop and fit a durgo valve to it.

The unit is a bathstore unit and the widest they do is a 1500 top with integrated sink (room is 1700 wide). As I understand it, the durgo/AAV needs to be above the topmost entry point of water into the system, so sink overflow, by X amount. X escapes me right now!

If it is negligent, then I could terminate the durgo/AAV just shy of worktop height to increase the space. By going with 900 tall units, I'm not looking for the work surface to actually be used but with a wife and 3 kids, I already know it will be a dumping ground

[Origin Unknown]

Origin Unknown said:

Guys,

Any reason why I cannot use Kitchen carcasses in a bathroom? I want 900 tall units like I have in the kitchen so my plan is to:

• Reduce the depth by cutting them down, possible create a rabbet to refit backpanels and use standard wall mounts
• Use gloss white units and doors
• Glue mirrors to the door
• Add a third central kitchen unit hinge (I have already created a jig for the router to route these out from a previous project)
• Possible route out a void in the door behind the mirror to house a heat pack

I'll use a 600, 300 & another 600 unit and use 300 doors to minimise intrusion into the room

I assume that as long as all cuts are properly sealed against moisture ingress then they should work well.

Any thoughts on this question?

[Simpo Two]

Origin Unknown said:

Origin Unknown said:

Guys,

Any reason why I cannot use Kitchen carcasses in a bathroom? I want 900 tall units like I have in the kitchen so my plan is to:

• Reduce the depth by cutting them down, possible create a rabbet to refit backpanels and use standard wall mounts
• Use gloss white units and doors
• Glue mirrors to the door
• Add a third central kitchen unit hinge (I have already created a jig for the router to route these out from a previous project)
• Possible route out a void in the door behind the mirror to house a heat pack

I'll use a 600, 300 & another 600 unit and use 300 doors to minimise intrusion into the room

I assume that as long as all cuts are properly sealed against moisture ingress then they should work well.

Any thoughts on this question?

A chipboard box is a chipboard box! I sliced up units for both my WC and bathroom to get what I wanted so carry on

NB My AAV is lower than the basin, in fact just below bathtop height, and has worked perfectly for 9 years.

Edited by Simpo Two on Monday 10th November 12:14

[Origin Unknown]

Good steer on both points, cheers!

[paulrockliffe]

Origin Unknown said:

Origin Unknown said:

Guys,

Any reason why I cannot use Kitchen carcasses in a bathroom? I want 900 tall units like I have in the kitchen so my plan is to:

• Reduce the depth by cutting them down, possible create a rabbet to refit backpanels and use standard wall mounts
• Use gloss white units and doors
• Glue mirrors to the door
• Add a third central kitchen unit hinge (I have already created a jig for the router to route these out from a previous project)
• Possible route out a void in the door behind the mirror to house a heat pack

I'll use a 600, 300 & another 600 unit and use 300 doors to minimise intrusion into the room

I assume that as long as all cuts are properly sealed against moisture ingress then they should work well.

Any thoughts on this question?

You can buy reduced depth stuff at DIY Kitchens. I spent absolutely ages trying to get something for my bathroom that's 1.6m wide and about 40cm deep that didn't cost a fortune and looked at pretty much all the options. The reduced depth stuff was was coming out at about £800 by the time I'd paid for delivery and VAT, for 4 boxes, two with a drawer in.

I didn't look at cutting stuff down myself because I didn't want to make a pigs ear of it, but now I've a bit more experience I think I could do it fairly easily and any cockups would be well enough hidden.

I decided to make a custom cabinet in the end because the cost of anything else was a bit daft. I used a couple of sheets of 18mm birch ply for the carcass to sit the worktop in. Then I put an iroko worktop on top and had my kitchen supplier sort out doors and drawers to fit. Think it end up being about £500 in the end, a couple of hundred more than I wanted to spend, but I couldn't find a way of getting what I wanted that was quality at the price. Pretty pleased with it, was about 2 days solid work getting it all done, though I still haven't fitted the plinths.

[Origin Unknown]

Cheers paul. Just priced up 2 x 600 and a 300 @ 900 tall and including doors, it was coming out at ~£450.

Pretty sure I can build a unit and doors from 18mm ply and paint it. Mirrors will be fixed to the door faces anyway.

Current render.

[Origin Unknown]

Tiles are now the sticking point. Seems grey tiles are in vogue at the moment but I need something that still looks the part in 3 - 4 years time. Entirely subjective but any thoughts? Had a look at what new builds are being supplied with and it seems glossy stone











Tesco value door handle already purchased

[Origin Unknown]

Thought I would come back and update the thread. Complete (bar painting the skirting)

Unit from Bathstore. Polymarble top is very nice, quality of unit underneath was ok. Grohe tap finishes it off nicely.



Mmmm heated bog roll



It's a very small room but a nice big window does make it feel bigger.



Really pleased with the floating glass shelves. I designed these to be only deep enough to take one bottle deep so it doesn't become a dumping ground. Total pig to tile around given I was using 600x300 tiles, sick to death of cuts! Grohe tap is a little disappointing in terms of flow rate. It's not a high pressure tap, but to fill a large bath takes a very long time.



Really pleased with the bathstore L shaped bath, nice wide shower area. Grohe value, head and bar.



Storage was pretty much at the top of the requirements list. So I built these cabinets to be 900 high, 1500 wide. Created a service gap behind to hide a cable for a double shaver socket in the middle cabinet for tooth brushes. After painting, I decided to get the doors made up and professionally painted in gloss white as I can't achieve anywhere near that finish about home. These are ~230 deep units, next time I will make them 1/2 the depth. However, we have more or less filled them!

Shame the ceiling runs out so much, but you don't really notice in reality.



Took me a lot longer to complete than anticipated. Not easy when it's the only bathroom in the house and we are a family of 5!

[dirty_dog]

Very nice it looks nice and bright in there. Glass to see it finished.
We only put in an under basin unit in the end to restrict the junk we keep in there but I'm sure that will change as the girls get older!

[Emeye]

Good to see an update. Did you go for a standard door?

[Mandalore]

I think the final layout is pretty good, for the space.

You can brush your teeth/use the sink, without having to shut the door behind you.
The towels won't get wet and are still close to the bath.
You have maximised cupboard space.