Discussion
I am getting a few new clutch symptoms as follows:
at the point of clutching or especially declutching i can detect a little bit of a whirring noise.....
when fully depressed i can occasionally hear a minor noise like a rumbly release bearing
juddering when v. hot and sat in traffic
i do NOT have much travel between engaged and pedal fully released
so - what clutch and how much of a pain in the ass is it?
any other bits like a gearbox bearing etc?
at the point of clutching or especially declutching i can detect a little bit of a whirring noise.....
when fully depressed i can occasionally hear a minor noise like a rumbly release bearing
juddering when v. hot and sat in traffic
i do NOT have much travel between engaged and pedal fully released
so - what clutch and how much of a pain in the ass is it?
any other bits like a gearbox bearing etc?
Top Gear TVR said:
I am getting a few new clutch symptoms as follows:
at the point of clutching or especially declutching i can detect a little bit of a whirring noise.....
when fully depressed i can occasionally hear a minor noise like a rumbly release bearing
juddering when v. hot and sat in traffic
i do NOT have much travel between engaged and pedal fully released
so - what clutch and how much of a pain in the ass is it?
any other bits like a gearbox bearing etc?
On my site it gives you full instructions for an S3. It is a difficult job without a lift but is doable in a weekend. Suggest you also get a spigot bearing, this may be your noise if not the release bearing. My site also tells you how to make a tool to extract the spigot bearing.at the point of clutching or especially declutching i can detect a little bit of a whirring noise.....
when fully depressed i can occasionally hear a minor noise like a rumbly release bearing
juddering when v. hot and sat in traffic
i do NOT have much travel between engaged and pedal fully released
so - what clutch and how much of a pain in the ass is it?
any other bits like a gearbox bearing etc?
Go to www.gbsportscar.com and look under prop shaft, gearbox and spigot bearing removal.
If you have an S1 or 2 it is engine out time I'm afraid
HTH
Mark
Steve, Barry had a new clutch fitted about 18 months ago or so on his S1.
I think his garage bloke removed propshaft & gearbox, engine in situ, but I suspect it would need engine mounts slackening/ undoing & the engine tilting somewhat to allow enough room for the gearbox input shaft to slide back & out. Prob best to remove the dizzy to save crushing it against the bulkhead.
All this is of course so much easier on a ramp like Terry's, the lucky bugger.
I may of course be talking bx
No doubt Barry will confirm this evening when he finishes work.
All this is a bit previous, normally these things crop up about 2 days before the Eurotour.
I think his garage bloke removed propshaft & gearbox, engine in situ, but I suspect it would need engine mounts slackening/ undoing & the engine tilting somewhat to allow enough room for the gearbox input shaft to slide back & out. Prob best to remove the dizzy to save crushing it against the bulkhead.
All this is of course so much easier on a ramp like Terry's, the lucky bugger.
I may of course be talking bx
No doubt Barry will confirm this evening when he finishes work.
All this is a bit previous, normally these things crop up about 2 days before the Eurotour.
Edited by glenrobbo on Monday 14th April 13:27
glenrobbo said:
Steve, Barry had a new clutch fitted about 18 months ago or so on his S1.
I think his garage bloke removed propshaft & gearbox, engine in situ, but I suspect it would need engine mounts slackening/ undoing & the engine tilting somewhat to allow enough room for the gearbox input shaft to slide back & out. Prob best to remove the dizzy to save crushing it against the bulkhead.
All this is of course so much easier on a ramp like Terry's, the lucky bugger.
I may of course be talking bx
No doubt Barry will confirm this evening when he finishes work.
All this is a bit previous, normally these things crop up about 2 days before the Eurotour.
Glen,I think his garage bloke removed propshaft & gearbox, engine in situ, but I suspect it would need engine mounts slackening/ undoing & the engine tilting somewhat to allow enough room for the gearbox input shaft to slide back & out. Prob best to remove the dizzy to save crushing it against the bulkhead.
All this is of course so much easier on a ramp like Terry's, the lucky bugger.
I may of course be talking bx
No doubt Barry will confirm this evening when he finishes work.
All this is a bit previous, normally these things crop up about 2 days before the Eurotour.
Edited by glenrobbo on Monday 14th April 13:27
The chassis differences on the S1 and 2 from the S3 mean that unless it has been modified you cannot drop the gearbox without moving the engine forward I understand. Clearly if you are moving the engine forward this means crane, bonnet off etc so engine and gearbox out as one unit is best and quickest way to go. On the S3 the slight differences mean the gearbox can just be made to clear the chassis cross rail but it is bleeding tight.
You cannot remove the prop shaft on either form of chassis without either moving the diff or the engine and gearbox as it is longer than the space between them and there is not the flex to clear the flange from chassis obstructions to get the gearbox end out of the gearbox. There is a shortcut to this by dropping the diff and pushing the props haft over the top of the diff. It is all shown on my site. Once exhaust is off prop shaft can be removed in 20 mins if you follow my method. Note others have taken days to do just this bit (cue the return of keTVRin).
Many people (and garages) will tell you an S3 needs an engine out to get to the gearbox/clutch but this is rubbish, my site proves the fact in the picture story. I am happy for others to use this when discussing the job and price with their local garage if they wish
Caveat of course is no two TVRs are the same so some may not clear the chassis cross member!!
HTH
Mark
Sounds like the spigot bearing if it's doing it with the clutch pedal depressed. The juddering is likely to be a glazed flywheel, so I'd have that re-faced at the same time, otherwise the new one will likely just judder away too, and that'll be irritating!
Looks to me like it could be done without removing the gearbox, but it won't be fun getting it down between the gearbox mount bosses. Might be worth pulling the engine and doing sump gasket and engine mounts at the same time!
Rich
Looks to me like it could be done without removing the gearbox, but it won't be fun getting it down between the gearbox mount bosses. Might be worth pulling the engine and doing sump gasket and engine mounts at the same time!
Rich
Probably your clutch plate have seen better days
replacement is recommended, better to buy a complete set
diameter is 240mm from a ford granada, I've a number from sachs clutch kit which I used : sachs 3000 182 002
i'm sure you will find an equivalent number in lukas parts.
If you switch the clutch, replace the spigot bearing , it's a very small bearing but can make a hell of noise when she's worn.
it cost nothing even at ford dealer.
to take out the gearbox without engine, it's doable in a S3 (I've done it) but not easy.
you are sure that there's no trapped air in master and slave cylinder or perhaps leaking?
This could also explain the lack of travel you have.
replacement is recommended, better to buy a complete set
diameter is 240mm from a ford granada, I've a number from sachs clutch kit which I used : sachs 3000 182 002
i'm sure you will find an equivalent number in lukas parts.
If you switch the clutch, replace the spigot bearing , it's a very small bearing but can make a hell of noise when she's worn.
it cost nothing even at ford dealer.
to take out the gearbox without engine, it's doable in a S3 (I've done it) but not easy.
you are sure that there's no trapped air in master and slave cylinder or perhaps leaking?
This could also explain the lack of travel you have.
Hi Steve,
just picking up on ...
So whenever you get it opened up for repair, and things are identified for re-newel - insist on a metal thrust bearing with a 'Ford' stamp on it.
here is a photo of the cheap/nasty item, see the little clips top & bottom.
regards,
steveS
just picking up on ...
glenrobbo said:
All this is a bit previous, normally these things crop up about 2 days before the Eurotour.
and this reminded me of my fate-full 2012 Spa-war trip. A week or so before the trip; on return from a gearbox and clutch overall at my local specialist, the clutch sized up on the driveway... caused by a dodgy thrust bearing. On return to the garage it was decided to invest in a OEM part as the plastic bodied thrust bearing (yes plastic!!) had broken its retaining clips (the ones that that attach to the operating fork/lever I believe).So whenever you get it opened up for repair, and things are identified for re-newel - insist on a metal thrust bearing with a 'Ford' stamp on it.
here is a photo of the cheap/nasty item, see the little clips top & bottom.
regards,
steveS
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