Rear Dif Mount

[Thundersports]

Hi chaps having my diff reconditioned and we can't get the rear mount bolt out any ideas?

[phazed]

What's the problem, seized?

You should be using long extensions and sockets through each rear wheel arch.

If you've rounded a nut then you may be able to unbolt the mounting plate from the diff.

[Thundersports]

Hi yes it's Seized.

[phazed]

Those bolts shouldn't seize as they are high tensile with a nylock nut iirc.

You probably need more leverage to crack it.

Don't forget that these are AF bolts not metric, again iirc.

[spend]

You should take it out first whilst supporting the weight of the diff, otherwise the bush will lock the bolt like a chuck.

Can be useful for extra grip on the bolt whilst you spin the nut off

[Thundersports]

Thanks for the advice will have a go one evening this week.

[OleVix]

Whats this about the top diff bush being so hard to replace, is there a trick to getting it or do I need to cut through the parcel shelf in the car?
And how does worn diff bushes feel when driving?

Hope I'm not hijacking, just adding to the thread

[Thundersports]

Ok we had a go this evening the nut is off the bolt but the bolt is turning in the Bush and won't come out. We've tried a long bar with a hammer to push it through but no joy any ideas?

[phazed]

That is tricky.

You'll have to remove the bracket from the diff, 4 Allen headed cap bolts, a right pain.

[spend]

Put the nut back on so all the threads are engaged, then drive it out with a hammer, once its moved take off the nut and punch it the rest of the way out.

As I said before you need all the weight off that pivot otherwise the weight of the diff is gripping the bolt in the bush.

[Thundersports]

Ok think i'm in trouble here; we've tried taking the weight off the diff and knocking it through, we can't get all the bolts out the mount dispite using some serious force on it. The bolt is stuck fast in the bush only way we can see is sawing through the mount!

[phazed]

When my rear diff mount loosed on my GKN mount I drained the fuel, removed the tank and carefully cut access apertures in the rear fibreglass panel.

That was to Threadlock and tighten the mount.

You could remove it the same way, only took about half an hour to remove the tank. Might be easiest way.

[Engineer1949]

If it is that siezed i assume in the inner metal sleeve to the mounting itself best solution lift body to allow easy working if that sounds extreme take the tank out and cut access through front bulkhead to boot that way you are looking directly at the problem if you cut the parcel shelf the top rail of the chassis is in the way but you will need to be proficient with the fiberglass to effect a good repair after surgery.


John

[Engineer1949]

If it is that siezed i assume in the inner metal sleeve to the mounting itself best solution lift body to allow easy working if that sounds extreme take the tank out and cut access through front bulkhead to boot that way you are looking directly at the problem if you cut the parcel shelf the top rail of the chassis is in the way but you will need to be proficient with the fiberglass to effect a good repair after surgery.


John

[phazed]

Undo bolts and drop diff.

You can then get an air saw, mini grinder in there to cut the bolt.

[Thundersports]

Thanks Phazed. Boot floor? If so how do you know where to cut?

[phazed]

Just measured with a tape from under the car.

The fibreglass is very thin there. I used a hole saw on a cordless.

When complete I cut a bit of ally plate and siliconed it over the holes. It will never be seen as it's behind the tank.

To remove the tank.

Disconnect filler neck
". Fuel pipe behind rear n/s wheel
Undo 2 straps holding tank in position
Loosen and pull off breather and fuel return pipes
Pull off a few connectors from the sender.

Tank lifts out like a suitcase!

[Alexdaredevils]

Cut the bracket off and replace for £40-50? Then you can get to it

Is there enough room to unbolt the bracket off the diff? 4 Allen keys?

[Thundersports]

Nope can't undo a couple of the alan key bolts dispite putting a huge amount of force through them.

[NZ fan]

I've had success undoing stubborn cap screws by belting them straight down on the head with a large punch. Works a treat and also closes up the hex hole a little which is usually handy because they tend to expand when you have had big torque on them.