evans waterless coolant - anyone using?
Discussion
TBH, if I were to use Evans waterless coolant, I would ensure the cooling system was in tip top condition beforehand - perhaps new/re-cored rad and all hoses checked and/or changed with either rubber, silicon or stainless steel. I don't think there'd be any point using it if the cooling system wasn't 100%.
As it's not pressurised, there should (in theory..) be less chance of pipes bursting off due to pressure build up, I would have thought.
As it's not pressurised, there should (in theory..) be less chance of pipes bursting off due to pressure build up, I would have thought.
Those that have used Evans will have noted the the car warms up quicker, because from cold Evans is not as effective at heat transfer, but on a cold vehicle this is a good thing, to get to temp quicker. Once at temp Evans will be nigh on as effective as water, very little in it. But will handle temps better for the reason already mentioned.
chris watton said:
TBH, if I were to use Evans waterless coolant, I would ensure the cooling system was in tip top condition beforehand - perhaps new/re-cored rad and all hoses checked and/or changed with either rubber, silicon or stainless steel. I don't think there'd be any point using it if the cooling system wasn't 100%.
As it's not pressurised, there should (in theory..) be less chance of pipes bursting off due to pressure build up, I would have thought.
I think anyone using Evans with a faulty coolant system is fooling them self and not doing Evans justice, if the system is working correctly them Evans will come into its own.As it's not pressurised, there should (in theory..) be less chance of pipes bursting off due to pressure build up, I would have thought.
There are a small number of top race teams we have supplied for testing, but I can't disclose.
On their engine Dyno the first sign of a problem is usually a pressure build up, with Evans being pressure less that problem is found quicker, safer. Fit a pressure sensor to your coolant system, you do to oil! If you could detect a head gasket leak early enough without waiting for the temps to crack heads and blocks would you not want to safe guard.
Race engine manufacturers are looking at max power, max safety, in terns of not losing that engine during the season. With a pressure less system that copes with extreme temp better, Evans may just give some that edge.
RichB said:
Out of interest what happens when it gets into the oil? Does it emulsify like water, burn off or what? I expect someone has some experience of this happening.
From the exhaust fumes you still get that sweet smell that let's some know there's a problem. It will mix the same way as normal glycol with oil.billy no brakes]11ary said:
If money is not an issue, not sure why Evans is a hassle, if you TVR is well maintained chances are you won't break down,
That's my point, why put something else in a car that's designed to run on water
If it's designed to run on water why do you add anti freezeThat's my point, why put something else in a car that's designed to run on water
It's called progress.
First came water, with all its side effects, then along came glycol, which you readily add without question.
Now comes along a detoxified glycol called Evans it's the first in the world, others will follow when patients run out. Until then you use your water as you clearly have set your mind.
Evans is for those without blinkers, and don't use something because it's free.
Loubaruch said:
What is the difference between "Evans" and "4 Life" coolants? The latter boils at the same temperature, changes colour if your head gasket fails and has an operating life of 10 years.
It is also considerably less expensive than Evans!
I don't have experience of this brand, but if it's the one from Ireland I believe there are things going on in court currently, it's made in Australia and is made with the same glycol base that killed some a few years ago, when it was used in Aussy wine.It is also considerably less expensive than Evans!
Evans is the only detoxified coolant
g11ary said:
If it's designed to run on water why do you add anti freeze
It's called progress.
First came water, with all its side effects, then along came glycol, which you readily add without question.
Now comes along a detoxified glycol called Evans it's the first in the world, others will follow when patients run out. Until then you use your water as you clearly have set your mind.
Evans is for those without blinkers, and don't use something because it's free.
My point is that although I have no experience of evans waterless coolant it is probably not a bad thing and could have many positive benefits, however don't use evans waterless coolant as a cure for a cooling system with poor integity - make sure your system is OK first. PeteIt's called progress.
First came water, with all its side effects, then along came glycol, which you readily add without question.
Now comes along a detoxified glycol called Evans it's the first in the world, others will follow when patients run out. Until then you use your water as you clearly have set your mind.
Evans is for those without blinkers, and don't use something because it's free.
Pete Mac said:
My point is that although I have no experience of evans waterless coolant it is probably not a bad thing and could have many positive benefits, however don't use evans waterless coolant as a cure for a cooling system with poor integity - make sure your system is OK first. Pete
Absolutely blitzracing said:
If steam pockets worry you then the "water wetter" products are supposed to prevent this. I ran some of the Millers "extra cool" with blue antifreeze for a couple of years- and it did seem to make the temperature more stable, but I was not happy with the rate of corrosion during that time. These products claim to prevent corrosion,(with or without antifreeze) but I was not convinced. Ive switched to red antifreeze now, and the cooling system shows no signs of sediment, but Ive not tried it since. You will find loads of water wetter products on Ebay for about £15 if you to try one without breaking the bank.
Essentially what I've 'promoted' for many years... BUT I also tap and bleed the heads into the coolant flow (at the rear & where the throttle heater is blocked off) as well as using remote bypass stat to stop the std stat creating any pockets. And I always prefer to sit the gauge sender in the location where it is in flow as the coolant exits heads into manifold ~ not in the top of the chamber where a pocket may form (or even partial gas/water) as frequently advised on here ~ preferring to know the gauge sender will always be immersed in liquid IYSWIM.Extra bleeds like this:
Getting the reservoir high enough so that expansion takes place above the inlet manifold is a challenge within the TVR layout, unless this is achieved typically the manifold will be where any pockets collect and then 'grow'.
The other possible point worth noting is that IME as soon as you change from glycol any small leaks will be found, it seems to me that old style anti-freezes contains something like barrs and has an element of self-sealing ~ maybe that is all the fur that collects?. So be prepared to spend extra time sealing small dribbles if you use any different products, if you just flush the old crap is probably still sealing but if you install all new hoses etc from clean you may well have little issues.
Essentially the low rad & expansion pot + high heater & inlet manifold cause unique problems in the TVR that mean there are lots of possible pockets where gas/vapour can collect. A coolant that is less likely to create gas is going to be much more reliable IMHO. As for readings on the temp gauge, they're just for show ~ what is far more important is having more consistent temps around the engine - coolant at 80C and a couple of points in the head at 150C is far worse than average of 90C but with max points of 100C IYSWIM.
I think this is worth leaving here. I witnessed this first hand being the passenger. Driving over to Germany to visit the Nurburgring in a well prepped turbo road car. The owner being an excellent fastidious mechanic. He decided to go for this stuff thinking it would put less pressure on the coolant system being that it doesn’t pressurise the system, using the prep fluid etc as described. In a past visit someone had a coolant leak/burst on the track and large clean up bill plus closed track time followed. Anyway on our way over accelerating up to speed we see behind us thick smoke, so we pull over and smoke is coming from under the bonnet and there is a fire on the exhaust, luckily the other car we are with also pulls over and had a fire extinguisher. While waiting for the breakdown truck we spot one of the coolant hoses has burst through pressure and sprayed everywhere under the bonnet. We don’t know why yet, could just be a weak hose, HG, other people have reported this stuff isn’t good for rubber hoses. The car is now not in a good state, melted wiring loom and other various parts melted parts. If he’d had water + anti freeze all we’d be looking at is a burst pipe. If the person we were with hadn’t had a fire extinguisher with them he might not even have a car left and we would have just been left watching it burn on the hard shoulder with nothing we could do about it.
Edited by Sowler on Thursday 7th May 12:34
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