Advice on tiny radiator leak please - TVR Chimaera
Discussion
MPoxon said:
I went for any Ali one in mine but that was only as the ali one was £100 cheaper than the original. The Ali one did offer an additional core (4 vs 3) and it is a 'racing radiator' so surely that is at least +5BHP 
well there is a weight advantage for sure .. but can't be much .. maybe 4BHP... yes.. update on the oil welcome
remember oil expands when hot so needs to be checked at the same temp Edited by TVR Beaver on Wednesday 16th April 16:11
Hi. Just after I bought mine last November I noticed slight wetness underneath the radiator. Took it out and had it tested by a local radiator specialist. There were a couple of small leaks that showed up on pressure test. I discussed the option of going for an Aluminium radiator but was told that while they are efficient, they are not so easily repairable (if at all)as is a conventional radiator following stone chip damage etc. Had the rad re-cored, £230 well spent for peace of mind.
It's personal choice, but I would not use radweld or similar in my engine. I know the prices of ali rads are coming down all the time but unless you are racing it a re-core will keep the care perfectly cool even on hot days. I took mine out myself and had it re-cored at a fairly local rad specialist. Basic Land rover triple core, all tested, guaranteed and painted for £160. Job done and back on the road within a week.
If you do choose this route and pull the rad yourself, I would strongly recommend you mark the distance between the 2 locating holes in the chassis on to a piece of string and give it to the fabricators. Ensure when the rad is welded back together the fabricators weld it so that the pins on the radiator casing are exactly that far apart. Otherwise you will not be able to get the rad back in correctly. If the rad is welded even 5mm wider the pins will not sit back in to the holes and you may even struggle to get the rad back in at all. (you'll know what I mean with the rad removed).
If you do choose this route and pull the rad yourself, I would strongly recommend you mark the distance between the 2 locating holes in the chassis on to a piece of string and give it to the fabricators. Ensure when the rad is welded back together the fabricators weld it so that the pins on the radiator casing are exactly that far apart. Otherwise you will not be able to get the rad back in correctly. If the rad is welded even 5mm wider the pins will not sit back in to the holes and you may even struggle to get the rad back in at all. (you'll know what I mean with the rad removed).
quattrophenia said:
It's personal choice, but I would not use radweld or similar in my engine. I know the prices of ali rads are coming down all the time but unless you are racing it a re-core will keep the care perfectly cool even on hot days. I took mine out myself and had it re-cored at a fairly local rad specialist. Basic Land rover triple core, all tested, guaranteed and painted for £160. Job done and back on the road within a week.
If you do choose this route and pull the rad yourself, I would strongly recommend you mark the distance between the 2 locating holes in the chassis on to a piece of string and give it to the fabricators. Ensure when the rad is welded back together the fabricators weld it so that the pins on the radiator casing are exactly that far apart. Otherwise you will not be able to get the rad back in correctly. If the rad is welded even 5mm wider the pins will not sit back in to the holes and you may even struggle to get the rad back in at all. (you'll know what I mean with the rad removed).
Thanks for the info, very helpful. Mine doesn't need recoring though, as the leak it on the end of the casing. If you do choose this route and pull the rad yourself, I would strongly recommend you mark the distance between the 2 locating holes in the chassis on to a piece of string and give it to the fabricators. Ensure when the rad is welded back together the fabricators weld it so that the pins on the radiator casing are exactly that far apart. Otherwise you will not be able to get the rad back in correctly. If the rad is welded even 5mm wider the pins will not sit back in to the holes and you may even struggle to get the rad back in at all. (you'll know what I mean with the rad removed).
zed4 said:
Thanks for the info, very helpful. Mine doesn't need recoring though, as the leak it on the end of the casing.
My rad only had a tiny leak within the metal outer casing and it took me a few months to find it. Whilst I was under the car looking for it I noticed that the thin metal fins that run across the front of the rad were like tissue paper. Scrape your finger along the front of your rad and ensure they are in good condition, mine simply turned to fragments and started falling off. These metal fins corroding/breaking down can seriously effect the cooling efficiency. My rad was only 10 years old with 20k on the car so could happen to anyone now, worth checking.All bases have been covered on this thread. So it all depends how much you want to spend. If money's no object, get an ally rad. If you're budgeting for the time being, solder or chemical metal it in situ.
Just out of interest, what is the rad in a Chimaera? Is it Land Rover? Or bespoke TVR?
Just out of interest, what is the rad in a Chimaera? Is it Land Rover? Or bespoke TVR?
See last post on:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gAssing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
But don't blame me if its not quite interchangeable.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gAssing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
But don't blame me if its not quite interchangeable.
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