How many litres of fuel does the MGB hold?
Discussion
have a look in the Driver's Handbook you bought and read before buying the car so that you knew all about the model, it controls, capacities, servicing requirements and schedule
it's about 10 gallons for early year cars and 12 gallons there after - there were a LOT of changes between 1962 and 1980 so best to go on chassis number for all parts
get the relevant Driver's Handbook and it will tell you all about the car (as new) - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue...
ETA: 10 gallons is 45 litres so 12 gallons is 54 litres (approx)
it's about 10 gallons for early year cars and 12 gallons there after - there were a LOT of changes between 1962 and 1980 so best to go on chassis number for all parts
get the relevant Driver's Handbook and it will tell you all about the car (as new) - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue...
ETA: 10 gallons is 45 litres so 12 gallons is 54 litres (approx)
Edited by nta16 on Wednesday 16th April 12:18
Is it the gauge that's given up, or the fuel tank level sender? Just make sure you run the tank down properly before doing anything to the tank. I had the level sender give up, picked up a spare and ran around for a while to get the level down so I could replace it. The lock ring tabs on the tank were rusty as hell and one of the three broke off while removing the old sender lock ring. Cue a volume of unleaded spilling all over me despite having the car raised on one side. And now I didn't have a way to seal the tank. I then needed to get the car towed to the nearest workshop to have the tank replaced. That wasn't cheap / fun.
As with (probably) all MGBs; one job led to another.
As with (probably) all MGBs; one job led to another.
elephantstone said:
I have got your notes on my computer.
in that case try reading them 
getting a Driver's Handbook and reading it before you look for the car would be in there and you'd have known the fuel tank capacity and octane of fuel (originally required) without the need to get from answers from the intraweb
nta16 said:
n that case try reading them
getting a Driver's Handbook and reading it before you look for the car would be in there and you'd have known the fuel tank capacity and octane of fuel (originally required) without the need to get from answers from the intraweb
Unfortunately i wasn't near my computer with the notes on but i will be rereading this weekend. Was a little easier to whip my phone out and ask a quick question you see. getting a Driver's Handbook and reading it before you look for the car would be in there and you'd have known the fuel tank capacity and octane of fuel (originally required) without the need to get from answers from the intraweb
elephantstone said:
I filled up and the fuel gauge seems to be working.
that often happens - any chance the car has stood unused for a while or very low milage for a while - but things you'll have to work through by actually using the car regularly for reasonable length journeyselephantstone said:
The only think i can see wrong is ive got a headlight bulb out!
possibly be a poor (wiring) connection - clean, secure, protect - electrical contact cleaner, electrical contact grease - all words sitting in your computerIF, if, it's the bulb blown then as a matter of practice replace I usually change bulbs in pairs to keep the light even and the one that was working now becomes your known (at this time at least) working spare and by the time you have to use it the bulb you've just put in will match it more for brightness - (I don't know how relevant this is with H4 bulbs but you'll be able to tell me if you replace the one)
elephantstone said:
elephantstone said:
Im going to be honest, i dont know. Only noticed when it was getting dark and i put them on.
Is there something i should know?
Just been out and they have H4 and Neolight on the lense...Is there something i should know?
Then there's an inner ring which is screwed on which has to be removed. Check which screws you need to undo as two are the beam adjusters and don't need to be touched (guess who cocked this bit up). The headlight unit should then come out with the wiring loom plugged in to the back of the bulb. Unplug this, change the bulb and then check that it was the bulb before you put it all back together.
Of course it may not be the bulb but it's a good place to start and having a spare bulb is always a good idea.
This isn't quite the process you'll be following but it should give you an idea of what you're looking at.
http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/techtips/mgb/head...
nta16 said:
ossibly be a poor (wiring) connection - clean, secure, protect - electrical contact cleaner, electrical contact grease - all words sitting in your computer
IF, if, it's the bulb blown then as a matter of practice replace I usually change bulbs in pairs to keep the light even and the one that was working now becomes your known (at this time at least) working spare and by the time you have to use it the bulb you've just put in will match it more for brightness - (I don't know how relevant this is with H4 bulbs but you'll be able to tell me if you replace the one)
I've always done mine in pairs too so don't know how the brightness will vary.IF, if, it's the bulb blown then as a matter of practice replace I usually change bulbs in pairs to keep the light even and the one that was working now becomes your known (at this time at least) working spare and by the time you have to use it the bulb you've just put in will match it more for brightness - (I don't know how relevant this is with H4 bulbs but you'll be able to tell me if you replace the one)
I'm not sure if the headlight wiring is different on elephantstone's car to mine (73) but there will be a very limited number of wiring connectors involved and they're easy to get at.
elephantstone said:
Unfortunately i wasn't near my computer with the notes on but i will be rereading this weekend. Was a little easier to whip my phone out and ask a quick question you see.
notes won't tell you want you wanted to know only that you should have bought and studied the relevant Driver's Handbook before looking at cars so that you know this sort of information (have you never done research on a subject)also if you took the relevant Driver's Handbook with you when looking at cars you'd probably know more about it generally than the seller and if you took it with you when collecting the car if you had trouble with the car on your return journey you'd have something to refer to
no doubt you checked the brake fluid, tyre pressures, etc. before driving a car unknown to you for 6 hours
look I wasted many £,000s on a few classics by making many mistakes it'd be a lot cheaper for you to learn by my mistakes unless you have plenty of spare money, time and patience
I've bought the cars, used then for many thousands of miles annually as dailies, for work, club tours and holidays, had many roadside repairs - they're not character building or part of classic car ownership just a sign of poor servicing, maintenance, repairs and prevention - the notes are about prevention rather than cure but they're no good unless you properly read them and refer to them as required
as they're in electronic form can't they go onto mobile devices
Driver's Handbook is in paper format so easily carried and not reliant on radio reception or you forgetting to charge a battery
good luck with your car, service it, drive it enjoy it - no reason why it shouldn't be your everyday after a very short period of running
elephantstone said:
Nigel, i promise i will find the notes you sent me and read them. Your b
kings are not good for the soul on new car days 
Darren as I remember it you had plenty of the carrot on a stick to lead you but it didn't work so it's kick up the a*se time - better to have a deflated first day and good overall ownership experience than mommy style encouragement then things falling apart because you weren't told straightkings are not good for the soul on new car days the Driver's Handbook (remember the theme now, you know the book I've advised you to get from day one) will tell you how to change the bulb (to original parts fitted) - depending what's actually on your car you might have a screw that holds the chrome trim on, or it might instead be turn a little clock or counter clockwise and lift/prise off - as has been put protect your paintwork and don't force things in case the trim bends or you slip and cause damage to yourself or car
clean the bulb connector - if it looks clean without crud then just putting the bulb connectors in and taking them back out again can be enough
ETA: without seeing the car I'll risk being wrong and go with connection problem - bullet connector or other connector cruding/furring or wiring to or along
and a warning about bulbs (H4 ones excluded) buy the 'Heavy Duty' ones rather than the standard ones as I think the 'Heavy Duty' are manufactured to the quality the standard ones used to be
over the years I've had three brand new bulbs (two double filiment brake/rear 21w/5w and one single filament 21w) not work so always test them before you fit them and always test before putting everything back together and test again when back together
Edited by nta16 on Wednesday 16th April 22:19
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