Quick question
Discussion
If you haven't got a rattle gun, get one!! Great fun changing wheels at track days. Takes the hassle and time loss out of it, and makes you look professional.
Got my DeWalt one as a special offer with an 18volt drill from Screwfix. Best toy ever. You just need a £5 set of adapters to allow you to use sockets with it. . Drill's not bad either, the batteries seem to go on for ever.
Got my DeWalt one as a special offer with an 18volt drill from Screwfix. Best toy ever. You just need a £5 set of adapters to allow you to use sockets with it. . Drill's not bad either, the batteries seem to go on for ever.
PS
The bible says that as the nuts are torqued up to 200 lb/ft, Steve Heath recommends a three quarter inch drive socket with a six foot length of pipe to get sufficient leverage, unless you are an Olympic weight lifter.
Personally, I would get a proper man in, but then I am to mechanics what Arnold Schwarzenegger is to tap dancing.
The bible says that as the nuts are torqued up to 200 lb/ft, Steve Heath recommends a three quarter inch drive socket with a six foot length of pipe to get sufficient leverage, unless you are an Olympic weight lifter.
Personally, I would get a proper man in, but then I am to mechanics what Arnold Schwarzenegger is to tap dancing.
caduceus said:
Nope
Don't tell me they're inside the upright....
They are around the rubber boot on the drive shaft. They hold the drive shaft to the CV joint and I guess the hub. I know nothing about how the hub assembles, but I watched an expert change my drive shaft rubber boots ten days ago so saw what went on in there.Don't tell me they're inside the upright....
Or am I? Looking at that pic, which end is which of that assembly? The hex bolts are out of the right hand end, but they would be to remove it from the diff? In which case you would seem to be correct.
The bible says to use a hub puller, and not to attempt it without the right tools.
The bible says to use a hub puller, and not to attempt it without the right tools.
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