Vixen Diff Knock and removal...
Discussion
I've had a bad knock coming from the diff area on a S2 Vixen. My I laid under the car and my partner started the car and went first/reverse/first etc and bingo!
It stalled.
Third time round, having been run over the second time round, I concluded loudly there was play in the diff but the term 'slapper' was misunderstood so she ran me over again.
Right, Question: What is the best way of changing the diff - is it sideways via removal of a rear upright etc or is there a better way??? Its a GT6 diff. Do the brake hoses need removing?
Any help gratefully received as I'm on short rations here.
It stalled.
Third time round, having been run over the second time round, I concluded loudly there was play in the diff but the term 'slapper' was misunderstood so she ran me over again.
Right, Question: What is the best way of changing the diff - is it sideways via removal of a rear upright etc or is there a better way??? Its a GT6 diff. Do the brake hoses need removing?
Any help gratefully received as I'm on short rations here.
Here is the one on my Tuscan this one was factory fitted by the look of it as there is a lip in the floor where the hatch sits however if your careful when cutting there is no reason why you could not fiberglass a baton underneath the edge of the hole to create a lip that the piece you cut out could sit back into.
A
A
Sorted.
Nearside wheel off, all shaft joints undone, suspension top links disconnected and hub dropped, 4 bolts that hold the diff in removed and diff goes sideways. Installation the reverse etc yawn.
No cutting of body needed!!!
Amazing no one replied with the answer as it must have been done countless times, ah well...
Nearside wheel off, all shaft joints undone, suspension top links disconnected and hub dropped, 4 bolts that hold the diff in removed and diff goes sideways. Installation the reverse etc yawn.
No cutting of body needed!!!
Amazing no one replied with the answer as it must have been done countless times, ah well...
thunderbox1000 said:
Sorted.
Nearside wheel off, all shaft joints undone, suspension top links disconnected and hub dropped, 4 bolts that hold the diff in removed and diff goes sideways. Installation the reverse etc yawn.
No cutting of body needed!!!
Amazing no one replied with the answer as it must have been done countless times, ah well...
Sorry mate never done it but thanks to you we know who to ask well done Nearside wheel off, all shaft joints undone, suspension top links disconnected and hub dropped, 4 bolts that hold the diff in removed and diff goes sideways. Installation the reverse etc yawn.
No cutting of body needed!!!
Amazing no one replied with the answer as it must have been done countless times, ah well...
A
A OK Pal! In doing the work I've overtightened the suspension links in the interests of getting finished before it rained, so the cars on a slope now with rock solid suspension. Oh well I was wondering what to do tomorrow....
The diff is in but the prop is off - the rear UJ has ovalled the yoke so off to Bailey Morris tomorrow.
So the knock problem was twofold - slap in the diff and slight movement on the UJ. Should all be as quiet as a cat burglar on a quilt when finished.
The diff is in but the prop is off - the rear UJ has ovalled the yoke so off to Bailey Morris tomorrow.
So the knock problem was twofold - slap in the diff and slight movement on the UJ. Should all be as quiet as a cat burglar on a quilt when finished.
thunderbox1000 said:
A OK Pal! In doing the work I've overtightened the suspension links in the interests of getting finished before it rained, so the cars on a slope now with rock solid suspension. Oh well I was wondering what to do tomorrow....
The diff is in but the prop is off - the rear UJ has ovalled the yoke so off to Bailey Morris tomorrow.
So the knock problem was twofold - slap in the diff and slight movement on the UJ. Should all be as quiet as a cat burglar on a quilt when finished.
When you go for new yokes you better buy the good stuff.The diff is in but the prop is off - the rear UJ has ovalled the yoke so off to Bailey Morris tomorrow.
So the knock problem was twofold - slap in the diff and slight movement on the UJ. Should all be as quiet as a cat burglar on a quilt when finished.
The lowest price will make you doing it again within short time.
Better buy the upgradede type with longer bearing needles and thicker stubs. ( do not know whether that's the right word)
Think it is GKN 1.8 in stead of 0.8
Hans
The chassis arrangement of the S2 allows sideways removal without too much of an issue. The TR6 diff ought to be OK as the rear fins should clear the frame. The only potential disaster is the flexi brake line which is at its limit when the upright is lowered - if it was in a ramp it would need careful attention, I used a block of wood under the brake drum to keep play in the line.
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