Hi/Lo's for rallying

Hi/Lo's for rallying

Author
Discussion

Mudhen

Original Poster:

11 posts

145 months

Friday 20th June 2014
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Hey guys - are all Hi/Lo's created equal? Or are some more equal than others?

Finally have a new rear subby for my stage rally car build and need to get a list together of what to buy and where. I haven't found anything like 'competition' hi/lo's in any of my travels and was curious.

Thanks!

Pat

Mudhen

Original Poster:

11 posts

145 months

Saturday 21st June 2014
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Another question while I might have an experienced persons attention...breaking down the old subframe - is there really anything that's worth saving when building up a 'new' one? Swingarms...that it? Trunions, I guess. I thought maybe backing plates but the adjusters aren't moving and I can't get the drums off - is it even worth strugging with?

Thanks again.

Pat

Cooperman

4,428 posts

250 months

Saturday 21st June 2014
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It would be wise to check the homologation forms for details of which Hi-Lo's are acceptable for historic stage rallying. I'm not sure if there are any restrictions, but the original and genuine ones seem to be fine.

FWDRacer

3,564 posts

224 months

Monday 23rd June 2014
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Mudhen said:
Another question while I might have an experienced persons attention...breaking down the old subframe - is there really anything that's worth saving when building up a 'new' one? Swingarms...that it? Trunions, I guess. I thought maybe backing plates but the adjusters aren't moving and I can't get the drums off - is it even worth strugging with?

Thanks again.

Pat
Backplates/Drum, be patient with the plusgas - Take it all off and soak in good penetrating oil. All the original stuff will be fine after that and blast clean. Advocate th re-use as the new remanufactured stuff is of dubious quality.

Mudhen

Original Poster:

11 posts

145 months

Friday 27th June 2014
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Awesome, thanks guys. I did manage to finally get the adjuster bolt out - lots of penetrating oil and heat. Will reuse the backing plates, etc, and stay away from the pre-built setups. Wasn't sure if the, 'these are AP units, avoid cheap imitations' was a real argument or not, anyway.

Only very general rules to follow over here...historic class vehicles have to be at least 25 years old and use, 'methods and technology contemporary to the car'. I don't mind going outside that window if the part is going to make a big difference in longevity/reliability, though (as long as it doesn't include changing to a Subaru :-)). Worst that would happen is I'd get bumped into a regular class...

Pat

camelotr

570 posts

168 months

Saturday 9th August 2014
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Be carefull with the cheap hilos. They will bend :-(



I ended up with a purpose built hilos with much thicker bolts. They work.