US style verandah build - advice please.

[Ginge R]

I'm having a US style verandah being built, nothing outrageous - 14' x 8', decked, cedar shingles.. something a bit like this but without the steps.

.

I want the floor to feel solid and not springy so should I use oak (which is what the frame will be) for the boards or is there an alternative solution - white pine maybe? Also, I would like to present the plans to my local merchant for a supply price, is there a cheap (free!) online CAD service that someone could recommend that I use, or is there someone lurking here who can generate them for a fair rate?

Finally, any general steers or things I should take into account?

Thanks.

[Spudler]

Ginge R said:

I want the floor to feel solid and not springy.

Constructed correctly it won't be.

[Ginge R]

Thanks, I'm assuming that spacers with noggins set 18" apart would be ok? If so, what type of thickness should I be considering as a bare minimum? Will I still need the floor to slope away from the house slightly and have the lie of the timber to set at right angles away from the house, if it's under a roof like that?

[B17NNS]

Spudler said:

Constructed correctly it won't be.

This. If the structure is correct it really shouldn't matter what material you use for the deck.

Ensure the joists are of correct size and centres. There are tables to advise. I'd go with something like 6" x 2" at 450mm centres (for the 8' span).

Edited by B17NNS on Thursday 10th July 17:11

[Ginge R]

Thanks.

[Kinkell]

Bit late on this, but don't be tempted to use run of the mill ribbed decking. Smooth surface 38 mm boards of red wood as a minimum. Much easier to keep clean and maintain.
The titmarsh inspired craze for garden decking is history.

[Ginge R]

Decided against oak in the end - and dismissed decking early on too! Douglas Fir in the frame.. any thoughts?

Thanks

[jimmyjimjim]

Have you thought of trex decking? Or other artificial materials; brand name irrelevant.

I like my trex deck; essentially maintenance free.

[Ginge R]

I'll take a look Jim, thanks.

[jeff m2]

Trex needs closer joists, worth it for the maint. free aspect though.
There could be other makers of manufactured lumber worth a look that can be laid on conventional spacing.

If you are DIYing it and use lumber check the end grain when laying or you will get cupping.

Don't forget the rocking chair and Banjo

Edited by jeff m2 on Friday 1st August 05:23

[Ginge R]

Cheers Jeff. It's more going to be an old over stuffed snug sofa, JD and a snoozing cat though..

[jeff m2]

Ginge R said:

Thanks, I'm assuming that spacers with noggins set 18" apart would be ok? If so, what type of thickness should I be considering as a bare minimum? Will I still need the floor to slope away from the house slightly and have the lie of the timber to set at right angles away from the house, if it's under a roof like that?

I missed this bit
In the US we five quarter six for decking on 16" between centres.
In English that's one and a quarter by six inches (actually five and a bit)
Trex recommend (a few years back) 12" between centres.

Another advantage of manufactured lumber is that it adapts very well to hidden fixings, you don't have to sort through piles of planks (to get a gooden) you just grab one and throw it on.

[Ginge R]

Update.

Built it, and what a success. 8 feet deep and 15 feet long, a sofa to snooze on in the sun and an underslung hammock. It has been, unquestionably, the most used area of the cottage this summer. So successful, that I'm going to extend it. I didn't opt for cedar shingles though, I found some clay ones in a reclaimers yard that fit the rest of the cottage perfectly.

I wasn't sure about the final fix though, did nothing until I had lived with it for a bit. In particular, I've been chewing over what to do with the ceiling. Would the logical and sensible choice be to use decent marine ply? Any other (more left field?) suggestions would be welcome. I'd like to install low voltage downlighters too.

The oak has weathered beautifully, I had plans to scrub it with acid but decided against that. It is what it is, it wears its scars with pride - I don't want some artificial result. The oak hand rail must have had different water content, it has moved at a different rate and one fixing has failed as a result. Any suggestions about what to do with that? As ever, thank you.